im wonding if anyone has adjusted their cluch height to the same as the deal peddal. I really want to do this since i have long legs and its kinda a pita to be moving my legs around to that height then back to the deal peddal. anyone with this mod have any pros and cons? lets hear them. thanks

 

Don't do this. From what I understand it can mess up the clutch and T/O because when you adjust the pedal, you're actually putting pressure on the T/O constantly. I tried this once (before being told about the t/o) and I wasn't happy with the feeling anyway, it was too touchy to drive.

 

can you adjust the t/o in any way

 

Not that I know of.

 

In any hydraulic clutch or brake I've ever worked with, the key to adjusting pedal height is to do it using the mechanical linkage between the pedal and the master cylinder. In most cases, this requires just shortening the rod/clevis ***'y between the pedal and the master cylinder to lower the pedal. Of course, this reduces pedal travel, and may cause disengagement problems due to less master-cylinder travel. However, it should not affect the TO bearing.

A possible alternative might be to use spacers to move the master cylinder forward a small amount to achieve the same result. This may still cause master-cylinder travel / disengagement problems, however.

 

You could do it but for the reasons Section8 mentioned you would not only have to adjust the stop on the pedal, but the length of the pushrod into the master as well. The goal is to move the pedal without there being any pressure input to the clutch master cylinder, so lowering the clutch pedal means also shortening the pushrod.

 

I've been driving my FD for 10 months now with an adjusted down clutch pedal - no problems at all. Drove various FC's with adjusted pedals for a LONG time, no problems.

The big trick is to not bring it in so far that you preload the clutch - there should still be a small amount of slop at the top of the pedal travel. But, most cars with a hydraulic clutch have a LOT of extra throw at the bottom of the clutch pedal's travel that's wasted. The only reason it's there is to compensate for a failing master cylinder - if the master cylinder goes out with the pedal adjusted inwards, you might not be able to drive the car. You also might have to re-adjust as the clutch disc wears. This is not an issue for an enthusiast, but it's something Mazda had to take into account with Joe Average.

Anyhow, I've got a writeup on adjusting the clutch on my webpage - http://www.clubrx.org - it's in the How To section. I'm 6'6", and making the pedal travel shorter helped out my comfort in the car a LOT.

Dale

 

Dale,

I didn't see it in your "How to guide"...is it somewhere else?

 

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?AC...=14&id=5&mnu=5

 

resurrected.... clubrx.org is dead so now that ive got my new spec stage 2 in, i dont have the link to follow up adjusting my clutch.

Could someone please just briefly explain how to do this again?
I remember reading it a year ago, please someone tell Dale to get his site going! very usefull stuff.

Also, my clutch starter sensor is making a loud springy noise whenever pressed. Does anyone know how to open it up to get to the spring? I tried WD-40ing through the cracks but no luck.

 

anyone....

 

http://www.fd3s.net/clutch_adjustment.html