Is anybody still rebuilding their FD's?
05-20-10, 04:17 AM
#26
Siiickkkkkk
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lol geez dont post this kind of ****. im going to be moping in like 10 years when im one of the last 10 guys with fds still standing. and 0 parts will be available.
05-20-10, 06:46 AM
#27
^ ceramic apex seals, not the coating. For ceramitc coating to work, you have to lay it on thick which then decreases your clearances.
dj - Well if I stay with the GT35 then i'll deal with custom A/C for the Apexi. If I go T04Z then it's a v-mount with A/C. Yeah, water injection sounds like money better spent then the seals. The street port is still debatable, unless I can get Judge Ito to port them. Wire harnesses are brand new. I have a single 20 row oil cooler. I was going to go dual but i'd rather somehow use that space for a cold air intake.
Let me put my thoughts this way. Every morning when I go to the gym and see that brand new Porsche turbo in the
(handicap) space , I think 
...I mean, what a fracken waste of a beautiful machine! The FD cost me about the same amount, but I could be driving the Porsche on the track instead of rubbing the FD with a diaper on jack stands.
FD=green/Me=yellow
dj - Well if I stay with the GT35 then i'll deal with custom A/C for the Apexi. If I go T04Z then it's a v-mount with A/C. Yeah, water injection sounds like money better spent then the seals. The street port is still debatable, unless I can get Judge Ito to port them. Wire harnesses are brand new. I have a single 20 row oil cooler. I was going to go dual but i'd rather somehow use that space for a cold air intake.
Let me put my thoughts this way. Every morning when I go to the gym and see that brand new Porsche turbo in the
(handicap) space , I think ...I mean, what a fracken waste of a beautiful machine! The FD cost me about the same amount, but I could be driving the Porsche on the track instead of rubbing the FD with a diaper on jack stands.FD=green/Me=yellow
You really do like to over complicate things and have no luck in your selection of vendors. Plenty of excellent people to port in so-cal.
05-20-10, 01:40 PM
#28
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Not sure how I'm seem to be over complicating when I prefer simple and the least amount of parts. Engine swapping doesn't seem to be a simple solution either. Especially not in CA.
So I have what i've narrowed down to is:
Balanced rotor set, new housings, gears, bearings, shaft, etc.
No porting, no enlarged water jackets, oem water & oil seals (simple).
Money saved from above will go to water injection. Will have to research plug n play unit. Can anyone post a link for that?
Attain solid motor mounts to replace melted urethane ones.
Sard race FPR to be replaced with Synapse which bolts on to manifold at stock location.
Inter-cooler to be determined later.
Turbo awaiting reply from A-Spec.
3.5" SMB exhaust tbd only if using A-Spec turbo & 3.5" down pipe.
So I have what i've narrowed down to is:
Balanced rotor set, new housings, gears, bearings, shaft, etc.
No porting, no enlarged water jackets, oem water & oil seals (simple).
Money saved from above will go to water injection. Will have to research plug n play unit. Can anyone post a link for that?
Attain solid motor mounts to replace melted urethane ones.
Sard race FPR to be replaced with Synapse which bolts on to manifold at stock location.
Inter-cooler to be determined later.
Turbo awaiting reply from A-Spec.
3.5" SMB exhaust tbd only if using A-Spec turbo & 3.5" down pipe.
06-03-10, 03:13 PM
#29
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I think im going to buy my injection from this guy... http://www.wannaspeed.com/index.php?...index&cPath=66
Here is his thread: that other forum.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=8950
I need to contact rotaryrebuildstore again maybe take dj up on his offer since I think I blew a seal but will know whenever my compression tester gets here.
Here is his thread: that other forum.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=8950
I need to contact rotaryrebuildstore again maybe take dj up on his offer since I think I blew a seal but will know whenever my compression tester gets here.
06-03-10, 03:19 PM
#30
I'm doing an engine swap presently on my red RX-7 and not putting back in a rotary.
Just too expensive for the parts and hard to find. And the maintenance especially.
Dont get me wrong. I have nothing but the utmost respect for these cars.
Had the 1st generation RX-7 when they first came out for 16 years.
Over the years I've owned 4 of them.
Just too expensive for the parts and hard to find. And the maintenance especially.
Dont get me wrong. I have nothing but the utmost respect for these cars.
Had the 1st generation RX-7 when they first came out for 16 years.
Over the years I've owned 4 of them.
06-03-10, 08:00 PM
#31
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I've looked in to the engine swap. I really like the Corvette conversion but it is not as easy as one thinks. Yes, there are kits to mount the engine and trans but there are still clearance issues and custom fab work to finish it. I've never got a clear answer on the wiring. None of the build threads seem to be completed. I know a local guy that was supposed to do his teast drive about a week or two ago and he is still having issues. If there was a plug -n-play wire harness kit, I would have dropped one in myself and added an Edelbrock supercharger.
06-03-10, 08:42 PM
#32
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Listen to David Jerome.... basically, you're doing it wrong.
Buy a brand new crate motor from Ray at Malloy and install it as-is.
For water injection, search my username and 'Aquamist install,' as a matter of fact i think it's at the top of the 3rd gen tech archives.
I've been road racing my FD at 450 rwhp this year with zero problems, and have made ~1800 mile trips down to DGRR and back the last five years, with my only mishap being a fragged trans from too much boost and power. It's not rocket science once you've figured out the right formula
P.S. Stay away from solid motor mounts. Poly work very well.... don't forget your passenger side heat shield.
Buy a brand new crate motor from Ray at Malloy and install it as-is.
For water injection, search my username and 'Aquamist install,' as a matter of fact i think it's at the top of the 3rd gen tech archives.
I've been road racing my FD at 450 rwhp this year with zero problems, and have made ~1800 mile trips down to DGRR and back the last five years, with my only mishap being a fragged trans from too much boost and power. It's not rocket science once you've figured out the right formula
P.S. Stay away from solid motor mounts. Poly work very well.... don't forget your passenger side heat shield.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 06-03-10 at 08:45 PM.
06-04-10, 12:05 AM
#34
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Listen to David Jerome.... basically, you're doing it wrong.
Buy a brand new crate motor from Ray at Malloy and install it as-is.
For water injection, search my username and 'Aquamist install,' as a matter of fact i think it's at the top of the 3rd gen tech archives.
I've been road racing my FD at 450 rwhp this year with zero problems, and have made ~1800 mile trips down to DGRR and back the last five years, with my only mishap being a fragged trans from too much boost and power. It's not rocket science once you've figured out the right formula
P.S. Stay away from solid motor mounts. Poly work very well.... don't forget your passenger side heat shield.
Buy a brand new crate motor from Ray at Malloy and install it as-is.
For water injection, search my username and 'Aquamist install,' as a matter of fact i think it's at the top of the 3rd gen tech archives.
I've been road racing my FD at 450 rwhp this year with zero problems, and have made ~1800 mile trips down to DGRR and back the last five years, with my only mishap being a fragged trans from too much boost and power. It's not rocket science once you've figured out the right formula
P.S. Stay away from solid motor mounts. Poly work very well.... don't forget your passenger side heat shield.
I have a Summer on order. Hopefully I can budget in the HFS-3. I was going to rebuild at Tri-Point since they raced FD's (not FB's). You can see their race FD in an unnamed other vendors booth at sevenstock. They've had it for about three years now. They could also do racer net pricing for me, which saves time and hassle of buying direct then driving over there to deleiver them. Anyhow, I chose another builder that I am 100% confident in otherwise my car would be at my fabricator's. After that if all goes as planned it goes to A-Spec.
I should say, rather i'd be waiting for an appt' and if I was lucky to get squeezed in between the Shelby Cobra and the frame off Rolls Roys restore, then i'd drop in the LS3. If not, the 2nd choice was to ship to Samberg's. I already started looking for a CA Corvette and priced and Edelbrock supercharger (CA legal).
Oh, those poly motor mounts (turboi side) melted in no time. Well, to be fair I don't know the outcome had I received my original '94 mounts with heat shield back. Instead I got a set of 93's without the heat shield. Anyhow, I already have the Attain floating solid metal mounts on order.
06-04-10, 12:12 AM
#35
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One of the things that will force prices for good cars up is the higher price and lower availability of parts. Only wealthier buyers and owners will maintain or restore these cars. As the higher costs to restore become known, buyers who want an FD will pay a higher price for one that doesn't require any restoration, since it costs more than he would pay even at the higher prices to restore. As more and more people convert to V8 power due to restoration costs, that further reduces the total stock of cars, and that also forces prices up.
Gordon
Gordon
Unfortunately insurance company's are going to start totaling them left and right since engine part prices have skyrocketed. It isn't just owners doing the conversions, there are people looking for rollers from kids that can not afford the rebuild. The 93's are alot easier to ****** up becuase of the production numbers.
06-04-10, 01:21 AM
#36
Haha, you have read too many horror stories from impatient and uneducated fd owners. Most single setups fail due to the lack of a proper tune, overboosting, hacked/old harnesses, etc.
The apexi fmic is more than capable and actually allows a good bit of direct airflow to the radiator.
You can take my advice if you like or listen to others who just want to sell you parts and snake oil. Very few fd engines fail due to coolant heating issues, if they do there was another issue at fault and it wasnt the FMIC causing the issue. Money would be more wisely spent on custom oil coolers, keeping your Apexi FMIC, ignoring the water jacket modifications, ignoring the ceramics(speaking of $1,000.00 per mile ) You are really overspending for your power level and all you are accomplishing is a false sense of security.
Solid engine build, water/meth, good wiring harness, adequate oil coolers, and a quality tune and you will have a reliable 450rwhp setup that will last for years assuming you dont over boost or have fan issues. There are plenty of people who daily drive their 400+rwhp fds as their only source of transportation.
The apexi fmic is more than capable and actually allows a good bit of direct airflow to the radiator.
You can take my advice if you like or listen to others who just want to sell you parts and snake oil. Very few fd engines fail due to coolant heating issues, if they do there was another issue at fault and it wasnt the FMIC causing the issue. Money would be more wisely spent on custom oil coolers, keeping your Apexi FMIC, ignoring the water jacket modifications, ignoring the ceramics(speaking of $1,000.00 per mile
) You are really overspending for your power level and all you are accomplishing is a false sense of security. Solid engine build, water/meth, good wiring harness, adequate oil coolers, and a quality tune and you will have a reliable 450rwhp setup that will last for years assuming you dont over boost or have fan issues. There are plenty of people who daily drive their 400+rwhp fds as their only source of transportation.
Me being one that DD's his 400+fd
06-04-10, 05:17 PM
#37
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^ sweet, my goal is 450. Mannykiller - Could you please post an engine pic or link? I would like to see some 400+ hp setups that actually work!
As I was just told over the phone last week; "you can buy all new parts but have a careless builder slap it together and it won't last (that sounds familiar). You can have in spec used parts and good builder with attention to detail and that motor will last a long time".
My front rotor and housings may be reusable. I was reluctant but I know they won't be used if out of spec. Oil pump will be blocked and will premix. Water injection will be done (HFS-3 + Summer). Turbo and manifold blankets + special DP wrap. OEM, Atkins or Rotary Aviation Super Seals. Those look really tasty for a good price. Does anybody have experience with RA Super Seals?
Originally Posted by djseven
Solid engine build, water/meth, good wiring harness, adequate oil coolers, and a quality tune and you will have a reliable 450rwhp setup that will last for years assuming you dont over boost or have fan issues. There are plenty of people who daily drive their 400+rwhp fds as their only source of transportation.
My front rotor and housings may be reusable. I was reluctant but I know they won't be used if out of spec. Oil pump will be blocked and will premix. Water injection will be done (HFS-3 + Summer). Turbo and manifold blankets + special DP wrap. OEM, Atkins or Rotary Aviation Super Seals. Those look really tasty for a good price. Does anybody have experience with RA Super Seals?
07-16-10, 09:04 AM
#40
Pretty as a $20 whore
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I sell a plug and play wiring service in the sponcership section on the V8 forum. I also sell complete AC kits, power steering conversion lines, FC mounting kits, clutch line mods, PCM flashes, etc. I recently built one for a guy in LA. When I finished, I drove it cross country to deliver it.
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