If so which one, and your your opinion of it.

 

Yes, 26"x19"x3" 2 row Chevy style in my horizonal mount IC '87 TII conversion. So far it is awome- car runs w/ the thermostat closed or just open (80-83 deg C) when moving.

The 5th pic down in this thread shows the radiator position...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=145822

 

thanks for the reply blue II,and nice FC!! but i am trying to stick this in an FD ... anybody running the griffin in the FD?

 

BLUE TII very nice work -

93 FD3s - Griffin 27" X 15" X 3" W/ 2 - 1 & 1-1/4" tubes Chevy style. Vertically mounted with APEX'i GTR intercooler in front and air conditioning condenser in between. All ducked togther with aluminum. I will have carbon fiber front ducking soon for the front intake. The plug is made. A lot of fab work stile needs to be completed - No time and I need some more money for parts and materials.

Pics. I know it is stile very primitive -

 

I was told by M2 that the Griffin will not fit with the Stock twins and a fmic. Can anyone confirm this? Judging by the pics posted by 80 CU it look like it would fit. Does anyone know what the limitation is? Are the stock twins too far forward? I have two K&N filters attached directly to the inlets so mine don't stick out further than the airpump.

 

27" wide gives an 1/8" clearance between frame rails where it is currently located. I isolated the Radiator with rubber - (sides and btm.). Almost anything will fit if you have the time. I didn't like the idea of the radiator and condenser sitting at an angle. (Difficult for the air to flow through them) For a stock set up I would suggest a Fluidyne or Koyo. I think that is how they are spelled. I have read very good reviews about them.

If you are interested I have a Mazda Competition radiator. I was going to put aircraft fasteners on the sides to so I would be able to use removable stiff rubber for sealing. This would make the radiator very easy to remove and seal it completely so air could not bypass it. With the stock design and the sides cut correctly so air can not flow by, it is a pain in the *** to get it in and out of the car. This radiator was never put into service. Just sitting collecting dust. I will probably put it on ebay in the very near future.

A larger front end opening is mandatory ( In my opinion) if you plan on using a front mount. Especially if you use your car for any type of track use. I am using a modified APEX'i front bumper only because I got it for a great price. I have carbon fiber ducts that I made for the Crooked Willow oil cooler kit I purchased.( Nice Kit just very expensive.) Unfortunately I had to break the molds to get the ducts out. This was my first try at making molds. I also made a mold for the front opening to the intercooler which I have to lay carbon fiber on. Very cool but I just don't have time. My car is parked a distance from my house and I screwed up my ankle 2 weeks ago and am in a cast. Doctor told me if I walked on it he would have to cut me open so unfortunately everything is on hold again.

So to draw a conclusion to this - Koyo, Fluidyne or Mazda Competition radiator and a front bumper with a much larger than stock opening.

 

80 CU.IN.T- that is looking awsome!

When you guys are trying to see what you can get to fit in your car a template cut out of cardboard can help.

 

Cardboard is a big help. I use to get all that I needed for free but that supply dried up. I use thin cardboard. The last stuff I had to buy was from an art supply store. I came in sheets of 4' X 6'. Not too expensive and I can't remember the name they called it. Very thin stuff. If you go to a decent art store and look round you will find some. It also folds one way much better than the other as does all pressed cardboard. Just hold it up and bend it in both directions and you will see what I am talking about. I cut my pieces to fit then bent them with a large square or the finger brake that I had access to. I then transferred the measurements on to T-6061 aluminum. This aluminum is VERY HARD so you should heat it first with a torch then quench it in water. ( THIS ANNEALS IT )The process is pretty easy. ( Sorry I had to edit the how to anneal proccess. The individual that taught me just gave me a hard time.) Not rocket science but very very KOOL. It will harden again to the original hardness in about 6 months. If you don't anneal it, it will crack with tighter bends. The annealing is mandatory in my opinion because it REALLY REDUCES STRESS CRACKS and makes a very strong / light piece. Very thin material can be used since 6061 material is very strong.

 

I am running a griffin raditor that I got from Rx7fashion/ Rick's Rotary.

No complaints here.

 

racerx7
Can you give us measurements ? height, width thickness. or a part # on the rad itself? I assume you are mounting in stock location ? thanks I am finding prices as low as $202 for a 26"x19 "with 1"fins at www.stockcarparts.com kinda makes it worth the trouble to look into this more with koyos and fluidynes at $300 to $400....

 

My friend had a griffin radiator in his FD, I think for the money he should have just gotten a Koyo or mazdacomp. It was strange, he used to have the stock radiator and a FMIC and the car would always run fine. Later when he switched to the griffin radiator, his car started to get a lot hotter. No one knew why, and this was with no other mods done either.

 

correction : www.stockcarproducts.com

 

1FooknTiteFD-did this problem continue after he was done burping the system? Griffin makes a bunch of rads. It's possible he was using one that was smaller or the same size as the Koyo ect. Although, if he is creative enough to go w a Griffin he probably went with something bigger and knows how to get the air out of his coolant system.


This is to everyone responding: When posting please let us know if they are running twins or single, FMIC, or SMIC.

This is great, I'm really happy the mystery around this piece is starting to unravel. It's hard to get venders to provide good info about them b/c some (not all) are more interested in selling you a more expensive drop in.

 

http://griffinrad.com/

Here is the link to Griffin and If you look at the pics, it is not mounted in the original spot.

Size - 27" OA. width X 15" tall. 2 rows of 1 & 1/4" tubes.
also there is 1/4" clearance for the sides. 1/8" per side enough to use rubber insolation

If that link doesn't work just plug in thier web address
www.griffinrad.com

 

Yes, he burped his cooling system and chagned his coolant mixture and did the whole 9 yards and his car still overheated with the radiator. It's kind of weird, maybe something else went wrong but it's too coincidental that his car started to overheat after he bought that radiator while it was fine when he had the stock one

 

Did the people running Griffins w/ overheating problems re-duct and completly foam in the radiator for a sealed system? This is a very important step as air will always take the path of least resistance!

Also, if the radiator core is too thick is it possible it may be harder for incomming air to flow through the core at lower speeds? Relieving radiator backside pressure would help this w/ hood vents or much better electric fans.

Instead of aluminum like 80CU.IN.T used I used 22 guage stainless steel. Although a little harder to cut and a little heavier it rejects heat SO much better! Of course this is important since I isolated my horizontal IC from radiator heat this way, not important if the ducting is only directing air like in an FMIC system.

I used cardboard for mock ups for component sizes (IC, radiator, etc), but used cardstock from K-mart for making templates for the ducting and such.

 

I have a Griffin radiator too...Very nice unit for the cash

 

Anyone else, I was thinking of a custom setup using a bigger and thicker core then the others.

 

Wow, thats an old post

I did have a Griffin radiator (Chevy replacement model) and its a great radiator (91 turboII) I have since switch to a new Koyo and the functionality is about the same regarding temps.... The Griffin's really are the best for the cash, but a Koyo was 320.00 shipped and the Griffin was 189.00 and I had to have ends tig'd on cuz I don't have a tig welder... so after that, it was about the same

hope this helps

Brad

 

I think with a FMIC the Griffin looks better, and might cool just as well. I might even be able to fit a bigger core in.
How are Howe radiators?
I have a friend that welds so the welding and fabrication doesn't worry me.

 

Should I go with the Cheby or Ford Style outlets?