1st take dump...

The basics ~
Drill out the Rebar ~ Circles
Remove bose if you have one
Shave rear wiper 6lbs
Oddessey 15lbs battery

Remove
Air pump
Any intake is good
Full exhaust will kill alot
Spare tire & Jack
Pop out the rear center divider
1/4 tank of gas

Your set to go ~

 

-Fix the seats stationary to the floor (ditch the slider assemblies)
-pas side wiper
-composite sway bars
-short stroke shocks
-aluminum brake rotor hats
-sunroof
-sheet metal intake manifold

 

there are quite a few basic things that can save a ton of weight,

- GOOD cf hoods / cf hatches ( dry carbon )

- removing spare tire / tools

- light weight battery - www.voltphreaks.com good batterys kinda pricy but turns over my supra just fine. if your going to let it sit for more then a week you need to disconect the negative though or have some sort of tender.

- seats as mentioned above are hugely heavy

- remove stock r1 wing if you have it, the thing does nothing but create drag

- leave your car empty. i see so many people with lots of useless junk cluttering there cars, it may not be much but it deffintely adds up

- lighter side mirrors, those motors in the mirrors are actually very heavy

 

is it ok to get rid of air pump ? what the hell is it for anyways ?

 

CF hoods don't really save weight over the stock aluminum hood. Some are heavier, some are 1-2lbs lighter.

The stock seats are not hugely heavy. ~23-26lbs IIRC.

Leaving the car empty is good advice. Some guys "lighten" the car then add crap-o amps and subwoofers.

The side mirrors are pretty light. Have you actually had one in your hands?

 

Agreed. Actually, according to the old Mantissa Racing list both seats with brackets are ~34 lbs. But what are racing seats...12 to 15 lbs. each? Not sure if the stock belts work/fit properly with race seats.....so you may need a couple of race harnesses and a harness bar. Another 6 or 8 lbs?
For a street car, you may actually gain weight... and loose comfort.

 

Step 1

Fill the tyres inc spare with helium

Step 2

Cram as many helium balloons as you can under the bonnet

Step 3

seal the whole car up with silicone sealant then fill that with helium

Step 4

Take a deep breath of helium and hold it in.

Step 5

Get in the car and awa..... erm oh....forget it

 

The best way to lose pounds in your car is to drop a few off of your body. Ever seen a fat horse jockey?

 

or have me drive it

5f 6''
119lbs

 

damn dude, PLEASE EAT SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!

 

if you seriously have a fortune kit, toss it in a dumpster. weight problem solved


im actually curious as to what my car weighs i have done a lot of this stuff. just losing the stock exhaust and emissions and a/c crap, battery, seats saves a shitload.

 

Where's the motor for the mirrors located? Behind the door panel? I removed my mirrors, but I'm not so sure I removed the motor. Let me know...

 

Those are all a bit extreme. Especially the pass. side wiper one...LoL.

 

I think some of you should think about the difference between a track car and a sports car. If it's the latter, the amount of stuff "ditched", "tossed" and "lost" is inversely related to the value of the car.

 

if you look close every riced out honda is missing the wiper. that says it all.

 

Sheesh, I'm sure taking a lot of heat over that wiper! I tried to suggest items that (1) were non-obvious and (2) had a minimal downside. Most of the FD owners I know don't drive their car in the rain, or at the very least don't drive aggressively, so having the pas side of the windshield clear is not critical. Same with sliding seat rails. How many of you have played around with the position of the driver seat after finding the ideal spot?

 

I agree, my front support saved me recently

 

used for emissions

 

The R1/R2 seats at least are very light.

I put in very light Cobra CF seat for tracking and with modified OEM slider rails onan aluminium adapter frame and alumium seat brackets I save all of about 2 lbs.

I could save about 8 lbs without the slider, but then I would need a pull off wheel to get into the car. Unless you need a race seat for safety regs keep it stock.

 

fujita engineering makes a Dry carbon hatch that only weighs 3.5 kg which is about 7.7 lbs this is without glass though

 

sounds almost like me 5'7" 125lbs was 115 2 months back

 

im thinking of cutting out the spare tire well and the rest of the trunk area and just putting in an aluminum sheetmetal plate in its place. so im eliminting some material and also replacing it with a lighter material. should pull a few pounds so what else

 

I pulled the charcoal canister on top of the rear end. also the padding and sound deadening material it weighed 65 lbs! Now, do i really NEED those rear speakers...

 

I know its late info, but there is some misinformation here about seat weights. I just weighted my Touring leather seats. I had already removed the seat belt parts (slider and buckle), and one of them weighted in at 34.6 lbs.

Stock touring seat 34.6 lbs (with the seatbelt slider and buckle removed).

 

You'll save a little with race seats, but not as much as you'd think you would or would with other cars. You've got to factor in a mount for the race seat, and if it's a slider, it'll be significant, plus adding back the seat belt hardware. You'll save a little more w/ a fixed mount.

Ditching the steering wheel/airbag saves more than you'd think. Losing the power steering is a good one that doesn't kill too much creature comfort. You can save a lot on the full exhaust, and single turbos will be a lot lighter than twins.

You may not be happy with a car with all the sound deadening removed, and it only saves like 15 lbs on the lowest part of the car.