lopedl

iTrader: (1)

I need to remove my primaries and I'm trying to figure out the most painless route. I know each route is going to be a swift kick in the *****, but I figure there are three ways to do it.

1) remove the uim- "with all that junk attached to it no thanks.."

2) remove the rats nest- lots of work, but I believe I will have to remove the engine harness along with it, can anyone correct me on this.

3) remove the actuator control valve system the big hunk of junk attached to the uim- this looks like the most tempting and easiest route to get to the primaries.

any other ideas.

Mazda sure wasn't thinking about the mechanic when they implanted those injectors where they did.

jeremyb

Dude theres not alot of stuff connected to the UIM. I can take mine off in like 8 minutes... literally. The AIR control valve is attached to the LIM if not the block. I forgot lol. Also, the 2nd option is along with your 1st. If you don't wanna take off your UIM how are you gonna get the ratsnest off? Actually... options 2 AND 3 are along with option 1 lol. There's no way you're gonna get to option 2 or 3 without taking your UIM. I'm telling you dude... the UIM is NOOOOOO way a pain with alot of "junk". You must be thinking of the LIM lol. You don't need to remove your ratsnest either. Just remove the UIM and I believe the ACV. Someone add to this for correction cause I know a few more things need to be done!

Jeremy

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Woops two corrections.

my correction I meant to say the lim.

Yes the air control valve not the actuator control valve.

Thanks for the corrections Jeremy,

Yes the top Intake manifold is easy to remove already have it off.

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

The air control valve looks a bit tricky, because I can only see one bolt on the side. I'm guessing there is another one on the bottom as well? That would be great if I can get to them by just removing the air control valve system. Would I have to use caution when removing this part?

1sicsol

OK
I recently took my primary injectors out WITHOUT taking off the UIM or fuel rail. But I dont recomend this because all the gas poured into the engine!!! The engine hydrolocked and I had to unflood it like 5 times. Everything was ok tho thank god.

SO , dont be lazy, and take off the UIM (which only takes like 5min if you know what your doing) and remove the primary rail.

Disconevt the hose attached to the secondary rail and undo the bolt so you can flip the rail up and get access to it. YOu may have to use pliers or womthing to get the phillips screws off because mine are always stuck.

Good luck.

mgoddard1

You don't have to remove the engine harness, just unplug each solenoid on the rack and remove the rats nest as one piece and push the harness out of the way when you pull the primary fuel rail. There are 4 phillips screws holding the rack in place, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. The 2 rear ones can be a real bitch to remove so when you put the rack back in I suggest replacing the screws with allen head bolts.

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Well I guess I'll just dive into it tommorrow. I think I'll just try taking the ACV system off and go from there. Wish me luck.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Upper intake manifold and ACV. The ACV has 3 bolts, not too bad to reach with a 1/4" drive ratchet and an extension. just very easy to lose the nuts and hard to find them when they are trapped on top of the LIM.

jpandes

This job the first time around is a real PITA. You may want to ask one of the local rx7 guys who have done this job before to come over and help you out.

Alwan16 was nice enough to come over and walk me through the ACV & primary rail removal process. All this on a Friday night! I guess I was lucky that his GF was out of town. Thanks Alex!

BTW, you don't have to remove the rats-nest to get the Primaries out. Good luck.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Did you remove the primay injectors themselves or the rail?

Dave

books

iTrader: (8)

It is a somewhat difficult to keep the lower 10mm nut from dropping when you’re removing it from the ACV stud. However, if you are concerned you can buy a telescoping magnet and place it next to your socket when you remove the nut. Even if it does fall, you can either locate it when you have all the stuff removed or just buy another one at your local hardware store.

It is slightly more difficult to put the nut back on when reinstalling the ACV. I just put a little tape around the nut and the end of the socket to hold it on until the nut starts to thread then I remove the socket and tape and place the socket back on without the tape and finish tightening.

mad_7tist

go and get a nice swivel 10mm 1/4 inch socket. it is worth every cent for a good one. i vote for the acv removal.

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for the help and confirming the ACV removal is the easier route to take. That is what I will do then here shortly. I got my telescoping since the last time I rebuilt an engine, I'm sure it is going to come in handy.

miatrx

I agree that removing the ACV is the way to go, but even with the techniques mentioned above it is still a PITA. Wish I had a better way, but that is what I did. 1/4" with an wobble extension and (teflon) tape in the socket. Dont forget to stick the disk in place in the ACV so you do not get the squeal if it is mis-aligned. (ask me how I know!)