Is it any different to tune a Rotary engine, than a otto?
He means rotary vs. piston engine. The Otto cycle is the idealized version of the typcial piston engine, using ideal gas, constant specific heats..etc.
Can you specify if you mean modifying the car or fine tuning it (afr, timing, etc)
Can you specify if you mean modifying the car or fine tuning it (afr, timing, etc)
Of course you could run a rotary as a Miller Cycle engine instead of Otto Cycle since it is a 4 stroke engine.
You just have to run a very extended intake duration (about 30 degrees more usually- I believe) and add a supercharger to compress the the air charge while the intake port is still open in the copression "stroke".
It would be probably be perfect to use the Lysholm twin screw SC out of a Mazda Millenia SC Miller Cycle engine as it was designed for this duty on a 2.3l Miller V-6. These SC are very efficient, have super fast boost onset and by compressing the aircharge via SC instead of rotor compression ratio you can cool it via the IC and gain efficiency!
I have this SC and a core low comp rotor engine to rebuild in the future. I think I will position the SC "backwards" w/ a jackshaft to the SC "front" so that the SC intake is facing the front instead of the firewall. I think a P-port intake would probably work very well even on the street since the SC will keep the air velocity high even at very low rpms and then you gain some volumetric efficiency from the awsome P-port flow characteristics.
Ian
You just have to run a very extended intake duration (about 30 degrees more usually- I believe) and add a supercharger to compress the the air charge while the intake port is still open in the copression "stroke".
It would be probably be perfect to use the Lysholm twin screw SC out of a Mazda Millenia SC Miller Cycle engine as it was designed for this duty on a 2.3l Miller V-6. These SC are very efficient, have super fast boost onset and by compressing the aircharge via SC instead of rotor compression ratio you can cool it via the IC and gain efficiency!
I have this SC and a core low comp rotor engine to rebuild in the future. I think I will position the SC "backwards" w/ a jackshaft to the SC "front" so that the SC intake is facing the front instead of the firewall. I think a P-port intake would probably work very well even on the street since the SC will keep the air velocity high even at very low rpms and then you gain some volumetric efficiency from the awsome P-port flow characteristics.
Ian
I'm pretty sure Tobias wants to know if people who are knowledgeable in tuning piston engines can contribute to the tuning of a rotary.
We have almost no tuners at all in Sweden who have experience with rotary engines, at least not anyone who knows how to tune a modern EMS.
We do have quite a few people who are very experienced with Haltech, MoTeC, Autronic, ProSpark, etc.. Would it be a waste of time to take the RX-7 to these guys?
I'd like to know for myself as well.
TIA
We have almost no tuners at all in Sweden who have experience with rotary engines, at least not anyone who knows how to tune a modern EMS.
We do have quite a few people who are very experienced with Haltech, MoTeC, Autronic, ProSpark, etc.. Would it be a waste of time to take the RX-7 to these guys?
I'd like to know for myself as well.
TIA
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The main problem with tuning the rotary is the detonation factor. Rotaries don't take to detonation like piston engines so having someone tune it without the proper knowledge can easily result in a blown seal.
Here's a quote from someone doing their own tuning a while back:
It's from this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=36263
IMO, I would only let someone who is familiar with rotaries tune the car.
Here's a quote from someone doing their own tuning a while back:
Originally posted by jbontke
This not is not a "click", it is like some one is hitting the engine block with a hammer. If you ever hear rod knock on a pistion engine it sounds the same. I car heard the noise from 10 feet away with the hood shut. Something is wrong with the engine and I have never heard a rotary knock.
I just bought a mazda remanufactured engine from a guy with 4K on it. It drove fine. I was adjusting the A/F ratio with my wideband Lambda A/F meter and Wolf 3D. I decided to see how much difference there was between that and my ported engine I blew last FEB. It was very rich on the top end. I decided to give it so boost and around 4,000 RPM at 10 psi it detonated like a million times(it seemed). So I retartewd the timing and tried again. Same thing. Car still ran great. So today I am checking the timimg with a timing light and retard the scale a good bit....all withing Wolf specs. I go and drive it and before I even a block from my shop it starts knocking and I kill it. I started it again and it knocked and drove it back and parked it. I didn't even have time to put the car under any type of load. It just took a ****. Now I have 2 blow engines in my shop. I guess I could rebuild them and make one good one from all the pieces. Or set fire to the shop and claim it on Fire Insurance. Mainly I am frustrated.
This not is not a "click", it is like some one is hitting the engine block with a hammer. If you ever hear rod knock on a pistion engine it sounds the same. I car heard the noise from 10 feet away with the hood shut. Something is wrong with the engine and I have never heard a rotary knock.
I just bought a mazda remanufactured engine from a guy with 4K on it. It drove fine. I was adjusting the A/F ratio with my wideband Lambda A/F meter and Wolf 3D. I decided to see how much difference there was between that and my ported engine I blew last FEB. It was very rich on the top end. I decided to give it so boost and around 4,000 RPM at 10 psi it detonated like a million times(it seemed). So I retartewd the timing and tried again. Same thing. Car still ran great. So today I am checking the timimg with a timing light and retard the scale a good bit....all withing Wolf specs. I go and drive it and before I even a block from my shop it starts knocking and I kill it. I started it again and it knocked and drove it back and parked it. I didn't even have time to put the car under any type of load. It just took a ****. Now I have 2 blow engines in my shop. I guess I could rebuild them and make one good one from all the pieces. Or set fire to the shop and claim it on Fire Insurance. Mainly I am frustrated.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=36263
IMO, I would only let someone who is familiar with rotaries tune the car.
Last edited by Mahjik; Feb 3, 2003 at 11:10 AM.
Ok, so we European FD owners are basically stuck with un-modded FD ?
I was thinking of getting DP, MP, CB, Efini Y-pipe, intake and APEXi PFC + Datalogit, WB O2 sensor and Boost controller. And top it all with the J&S knock sensor. I then intended to tune the car via laptop and start off with a map similar to my mods and fine tune it to my specific car (I wouldn't get a port, as I don't think they're available in Europe).
My first plan is to get the boost controller installed (will need to limit the boost to 10psi) along with the Efini Y-pipe and DP. My main cat was already removed and catback is aftermarket one already.
Does the above plan sound just plain stupid or is it possible ?
There aren't even any tuners in the country with WB O2...
I was thinking of getting DP, MP, CB, Efini Y-pipe, intake and APEXi PFC + Datalogit, WB O2 sensor and Boost controller. And top it all with the J&S knock sensor. I then intended to tune the car via laptop and start off with a map similar to my mods and fine tune it to my specific car (I wouldn't get a port, as I don't think they're available in Europe).
My first plan is to get the boost controller installed (will need to limit the boost to 10psi) along with the Efini Y-pipe and DP. My main cat was already removed and catback is aftermarket one already.
Does the above plan sound just plain stupid or is it possible ?
There aren't even any tuners in the country with WB O2...
Quite honestly, if an intelligent and skilled mechanic is willing to drop his pride and research the rotary before opening it up you would be set. Not many mechanics are willing to say that they need to learn about something before they do it though. It is different, but not too much different. I know people that tune their piston engines by listening to knock, if they hear it they make some adjustments to they are just on the edge...this is a no no with the rotary
I don't recommend taking it to a typical shop and tell them to tune your car though. You need someone with experience who knows what to avoid and how these cars handle the modifications.
I don't recommend taking it to a typical shop and tell them to tune your car though. You need someone with experience who knows what to avoid and how these cars handle the modifications.
You need someone that has a track record of tuning high hp turbo rotary engines.
OR
You can take your car to a dyno shop and tell them what you want, basically give them a a/f and timing that you want to run and let them adjust to that target. Basically just dont count on them to know the right a/f and timing info. If you tell them what you want they should be able to get it there for you.
If you really want power you should just get a good standalone and wideband then read for hours and hours on the forum and tune it yourself. There is enough info on the forum to tune it yourself.
STEPHEN
OR
You can take your car to a dyno shop and tell them what you want, basically give them a a/f and timing that you want to run and let them adjust to that target. Basically just dont count on them to know the right a/f and timing info. If you tell them what you want they should be able to get it there for you.
If you really want power you should just get a good standalone and wideband then read for hours and hours on the forum and tune it yourself. There is enough info on the forum to tune it yourself.
STEPHEN
Actually there's plenty of good Rotary people in europe. There exists more people who deal with rotaries then you would think. I've found a tune shop here in sweden that has experience with rotaries for over 10 years. So now i know who's gonna tune my car.
Originally posted by Tom93R1
How do you mean tune? You dont have valve timing to worry about, but you have to set both leading and trailing spark timing. What else is in your definition of "tune"?
How do you mean tune? You dont have valve timing to worry about, but you have to set both leading and trailing spark timing. What else is in your definition of "tune"?
Originally posted by cruiser
Hmm... all I need is timing and a/f info
If it was only this simple...
Hmm... all I need is timing and a/f info

If it was only this simple...
Thats pretty much if except for correction factors but then again they just change the timing and fuel so it still goes back to timing and fuel.
You can play around with injector setting for different size inj but he can get that info off the forum as well for the various size inj he might be running
STEPHEN
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