Another Rotaryextreme SVmount On The Street
#26
i forgot i own an FD
Make sure you seal up the front relay box where the wires go in to prevent water from getting in. I also drilled a few small holes into the lid to let any water that gets in drip out.
Also the inline fluid cooler to replace the stock power steering line works great.
Also the inline fluid cooler to replace the stock power steering line works great.
Last edited by namasan; 07-14-05 at 05:56 PM.
#27
13B Rotary Turbo
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South California
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I have direct air flowing into my intake with my regular v-mount. The radiator is pushed aside to the right and allows about 2 1/2 inches of air flow direct from the mouth of the bumper into the intakes. Also, I have the ducting slightly modified to allow more air into the intakes. Temps are great.
#29
Planning my come back
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Originally Posted by 1revn3rdgen
Looking good. You got rid of your Volk GT-U's already?
Looks good Sonny. Would like to see those headlight up close if you got any pics
#30
Senior Member
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i have not done with my headlight kit yet so i will send you somne pix when i have it done.the volk good good on your car,it is much better on my silver
Originally Posted by hondasr4kids
yes he did look at sig
Looks good Sonny. Would like to see those headlight up close if you got any pics
Looks good Sonny. Would like to see those headlight up close if you got any pics
#31
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
You are right that the intake temps I get from the UIM is not accurate but if you think about it that means that my intake temps is actually cooler than what it shows on the commander. With hard driving my intake temps go up to about 32c but as soon as I start to cruise it quickly goes back down.
You're only partially correct. The temperature of the metal on the intake manifold will not change as quickly as the temperature of the air flowing inside it. Sometimes the temp you see on the PFC will be higher than the actual IAT, and sometimes it will be lower.
Here's an example: light a fire under a saucepan on your stove. You can still touch the saucepan for a while, maybe even a minute, before it heats up to the temperature of the flame (or something similar, depending on how much heat it's releasing on the other side). Similarly, after you turn the flame off, the pan will take a while to cool down.
If you're using the stock intake air temperature sensor, you're essentially measuring the saucepan (metal manifold), when you want to be measuring the flame (air passing through the manifold). In our stock setup, the sensor is actually measuring a bit of both. It sticks into the airstream, but is mostly touching the intake manifold, so the measurements are not as accurate as they should be. Does that make sense now?
The best way to test the efficiency of your IC would be to measure temperatures before the intercooler AND after it, at the same time. Same goes for the radiator.
-s-
Last edited by scotty305; 07-14-05 at 07:53 PM.
#32
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by scotty305
The best way to test the efficiency of your IC would be to measure temperatures before the intercooler AND after it, at the same time. Same goes for the radiator.
Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
Also the radiator and intercooler does have fins to catch the air it is not a flat piece of metal that will just let the air bounce off of it.
However, it seems it works fine for you, so enough aerodynamics 101. I just don't want people to think that ducting isn't worth much as far as cooling is concerned. Proper direction of airflow both in front and behind a heat exchanger is crucial to its efficiency.
#33
SINFUL7
iTrader: (37)
Originally Posted by Kento
I just don't want people to think that ducting isn't worth much as far as cooling is concerned. Proper direction of airflow both in front and behind a heat exchanger is crucial to its efficiency.
#36
Senior Member
Nice to see another V-mount, looking good. I have one of the Rotary Extreme Medium Vmounts along with the Airbox going in my car at this moment. Can't wait to get it back to test it out along with my new single turbo setup.
-Rob
-Rob
#37
Originally Posted by Kento
thanx no offense I will believe what I want since this is a free country I'd rather believe physics and factual science rather than a post on an internet forum who knows there's a lot of variables involved that could result in the temps you guys are seeing I'd like to see what would happen to your intake temps if you boosted for long periods and how long it would take for intake temps to stabilize wait nevermind since i'm not there it won't make much difference yes I've never used the v-mount because it's too expensive for the benefits I'd get out of it at this time but I know a little about aerodynamics so I know that proper ducting to direct airflow is necessary for heat exchangers to work properly thanx I think I'll stop now...
Subtle but very funny.
or more appropriately laugh out loud suble but very funny
#38
Rotary Enthusiast
all i know is that on an average drive the hot side of my friends v mount would be a whole lot cooler than my FMIC hot side. even after his car dumped about half of his oil on the highway...
when i get my car back ill borrow my works IR thermometer and do some runs with him.
when i get my car back ill borrow my works IR thermometer and do some runs with him.
#39
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by treceb
all i know is that on an average drive the hot side of my friends v mount would be a whole lot cooler than my FMIC hot side. even after his car dumped about half of his oil on the highway...
when i get my car back ill borrow my works IR thermometer and do some runs with him.
when i get my car back ill borrow my works IR thermometer and do some runs with him.
#40
Rotary Enthusiast
with rotaryextreme's monster v mount
i have a duct for the lower portion of the radiator, and thats it. in traffic that was moving about 5mph on a 98deg day i was getting
86- water temp (fans turn on at 86 via datalogit)
47- intake temps
as soon as i start moving around 45mph within 2 mutes my temps were
84-water
36-37-intake
i have a duct for the lower portion of the radiator, and thats it. in traffic that was moving about 5mph on a 98deg day i was getting
86- water temp (fans turn on at 86 via datalogit)
47- intake temps
as soon as i start moving around 45mph within 2 mutes my temps were
84-water
36-37-intake
#42
SINFUL7
iTrader: (37)
Originally Posted by cmartinp28
its hard to believe that people are getting 18-26c deg on a hot day since they translate to 46-78 deg farenheight...
Even when I was living in Concord Ca my air temps would be from 24c to 32 during the day.
Last edited by KaiFD3S; 07-15-05 at 03:54 PM.
#49
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
are you refering to me...did you see where I live....look again....
Even when I was living in Concord Ca my air temps would be from 24c to 32 during the day.
Even when I was living in Concord Ca my air temps would be from 24c to 32 during the day.
hahahaha.. never even noticed that
#50
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by cmartinp28
were you referring to me?
i was amazed at how cool your IC felt i went to check mines out. besides, other than you and me, i dont think anyone else here would run their precious FD after dumping that much oil...