Make sure you seal up the front relay box where the wires go in to prevent water from getting in. I also drilled a few small holes into the lid to let any water that gets in drip out.

Also the inline fluid cooler to replace the stock power steering line works great.

 

I have direct air flowing into my intake with my regular v-mount. The radiator is pushed aside to the right and allows about 2 1/2 inches of air flow direct from the mouth of the bumper into the intakes. Also, I have the ducting slightly modified to allow more air into the intakes. Temps are great.

 

Seems to me the piping length could be optimized. Ditch the y-pipe, use a ASP styled hot side charge pipe that more or less goes straight to the IC. On the cold side rotate the pipe coming out of the IC 90 deg.

 

yes he did look at sig

Looks good Sonny. Would like to see those headlight up close if you got any pics

 

i have not done with my headlight kit yet so i will send you somne pix when i have it done.the volk good good on your car,it is much better on my silver

 

You're only partially correct. The temperature of the metal on the intake manifold will not change as quickly as the temperature of the air flowing inside it. Sometimes the temp you see on the PFC will be higher than the actual IAT, and sometimes it will be lower.


Here's an example: light a fire under a saucepan on your stove. You can still touch the saucepan for a while, maybe even a minute, before it heats up to the temperature of the flame (or something similar, depending on how much heat it's releasing on the other side). Similarly, after you turn the flame off, the pan will take a while to cool down.


If you're using the stock intake air temperature sensor, you're essentially measuring the saucepan (metal manifold), when you want to be measuring the flame (air passing through the manifold). In our stock setup, the sensor is actually measuring a bit of both. It sticks into the airstream, but is mostly touching the intake manifold, so the measurements are not as accurate as they should be. Does that make sense now?




The best way to test the efficiency of your IC would be to measure temperatures before the intercooler AND after it, at the same time. Same goes for the radiator.

-s-

 

Plus much of these "measured" temps are dependent upon one's definition of "hard driving". A run through the gears, then a cruise at 70 mph to let things cool down, or a nice run through a canyon road, or even a single lap at a track session? I simply cannot see either IC or radiator being anywhere near efficient with such huge gaps on each side.
The problem is that those fins too tiny to "catch" much air, and both heat exchangers are canted at an angle instead of in a direct frontal position to the incoming airflow. Again, airflow will take the path of least resistance; regardless of the fins on the IC/radiator, simply being what they are and in the position they are is an obstacle to the airflow. The gaps are not, thus most of the airflow will simply bleed out the sides.

However, it seems it works fine for you, so enough aerodynamics 101. I just don't want people to think that ducting isn't worth much as far as cooling is concerned. Proper direction of airflow both in front and behind a heat exchanger is crucial to its efficiency.

 

I do agree that proper ducting is very important, right now everything works fine since I am not tracking the car yet but I will be making my own ducting this winter since the car will be in storage and I will have a lot of time to work on it..

 

Not to thread jack but how much does a V-mount cost? small or large?

 

www.rotaryextreme.com

 

Nice to see another V-mount, looking good. I have one of the Rotary Extreme Medium Vmounts along with the Airbox going in my car at this moment. Can't wait to get it back to test it out along with my new single turbo setup.

-Rob

 

LOL
Subtle but very funny.

or more appropriately laugh out loud suble but very funny

 

all i know is that on an average drive the hot side of my friends v mount would be a whole lot cooler than my FMIC hot side. even after his car dumped about half of his oil on the highway...

when i get my car back ill borrow my works IR thermometer and do some runs with him.

 

were you referring to me?

 

with rotaryextreme's monster v mount

i have a duct for the lower portion of the radiator, and thats it. in traffic that was moving about 5mph on a 98deg day i was getting

86- water temp (fans turn on at 86 via datalogit)
47- intake temps

as soon as i start moving around 45mph within 2 mutes my temps were

84-water
36-37-intake

 

its hard to believe that people are getting 18-26c deg on a hot day since they translate to 46-78 deg farenheight...

 

are you refering to me...did you see where I live....look again....

Even when I was living in Concord Ca my air temps would be from 24c to 32 during the day.

 

my air temp was 27c this morning on the way to work

 

hey, just noticed your 'rotor shaped' cap. Where did you get that from? look wicked!

 

The rotary extreme v-mount is a very good investment. I would not swap it for anything else.

 

Looks Good!

 

it is from mazdaspeed

 

Brilliant, where can i get one from then? :p

 

hahahaha.. never even noticed that

 

yes sir.
i was amazed at how cool your IC felt i went to check mines out. besides, other than you and me, i dont think anyone else here would run their precious FD after dumping that much oil...