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Another Rotaryextreme SVmount On The Street
Thanks to Chuck from Rotaryextreme.com and cf n1 hood
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...7/DSC02717.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...7/DSC02715.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...7/DSC02718.jpg |
nice Sonny....love the hood
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Damn that does look pretty bad ass
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Going to be installing the same kit next week. Looks great - nice job :) Any pitfalls / problems you care to talk about? I've read a few threads about how people had some trouble with the power steering line. You don't have A/C correct? (that's tricky on this setup too)
Thanks Dave |
Looking good. :bigthumb: You got rid of your Volk GT-U's already?
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the installation was not that bad at all,you call rotaryextreme and they will send you the link to show how to install it.I took my ac off b 4 i got the vmount.
Originally Posted by DGblk93
Going to be installing the same kit next week. Looks great - nice job :) Any pitfalls / problems you care to talk about? I've read a few threads about how people had some trouble with the power steering line. You don't have A/C correct? (that's tricky on this setup too)
Thanks Dave |
looks good....just wondering if they make v mounts with ducting for the IC? Wouldnt you have alot of airflow bypassing your IC?
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Looking sweet, but I luv those wheels more and more each time I see them.
Fish |
Nice car sonny, first pics ive seen of it. :bigthumb:
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Originally Posted by chopstix
looks good....just wondering if they make v mounts with ducting for the IC? Wouldnt you have alot of airflow bypassing your IC?
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Originally Posted by Kento
My thoughts exactly. I thought there was at least some ducting involved with the kit? Otherwise, the airflow is basically going to bypass both your IC and your radiator.
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thanks kaifd3s,it came with ic air duct but i want to see the defferent air tem with air duct and with out the air duct
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Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
it comes with ducting but it looks like he did not install it...when I had the same v-mount on my car I did not use the ducting, so I can get more air into the intake and it did not make much of a difference as far as intake temp.
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I haven't seen the kit, so if the actual ducting with the kit is of poor design and quality, then perhaps it wouldn't make that much difference. Properly sealing off the IC and radiator will result in guaranteed better performance.
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I'm sure this has been brought up before, but if you do duct it off properly, how is the intake going to get fresh air? Or is it open on the air intake side by design to allow air, at speed to flow through there and also have enough for the rad and IC? What about a fin/box in the middle to close off the IC so it gets it's own air from the nose and also close off the radiator but also still be able to get air for the intake. Sort of like the way people with the M2 smic did in that when you remove the foam from the instake side, you allowing air to flow around the radiator and into the intake box. Some have made a cut out that goes from the front nose and back to the radiator (think vietnam memorial design as it's a V that tapers to the back edge of the radiator) so the intake has it's own air slotted to it and also for the radiator.
Tim |
Originally Posted by Kento
I find that extremely difficult to believe. Airflow will always take the path of least resistance, meaning that instead of running through both the radiator and IC, it will simply flow through the openings on the sides, resulting in little to no heat exchange and higher intake/coolant temps.
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From what I've seen of Chuck's v-mount in person, the ducting is very good if you use his intake box for the v-mount. The V is pretty much sealed off with the intake filters sucking air right out of the V.
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what air temp have you see on your commander car?
Originally Posted by Kento
I find that extremely difficult to believe. Airflow will always take the path of least resistance, meaning that instead of running through both the radiator and IC, it will simply flow through the openings on the sides, resulting in little to no heat exchange and higher intake/coolant temps.
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today is really hot out side but my air temp was 25c on the way to worked.
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Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
believe what you want to I already ran the medium v-mount and now have the large v-mount since I went single, like you said you have never seen this kit at all or even used it so you need to use it to believe it but like I said there is a differece and the only difference that I saw with the ducting is the quickness of the temp from heatsoak to go down but it would still go down to the same temp just slightly longer...I am also not running any ducting with my large v-mount and my temps are always at 18 to 26c.
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Originally Posted by Kento
thanx no offense I will believe what I want since this is a free country I'd rather believe physics and factual science rather than a post on an internet forum who knows there's a lot of variables involved that could result in the temps you guys are seeing I'd like to see what would happen to your intake temps if you boosted for long periods and how long it would take for intake temps to stabilize wait nevermind since i'm not there it won't make much difference yes I've never used the v-mount because it's too expensive for the benefits I'd get out of it at this time but I know a little about aerodynamics so I know that proper ducting to direct airflow is necessary for heat exchangers to work properly thanx I think I'll stop now...
Also the radiator and intercooler does have fins to catch the air it is not a flat piece of metal that will just let the air bounce off of it. Ducting would make it a whole lot better that I agree with you but with the intakes temps and coolant temps that I see on my car right now there is no reason for me to do it at this time. |
I agree with Kento. A properly ducted system is going to have more air flowing through the IC and radiator, which will make it more efficient. There could be a few reasons why you're not noticing temperature differences. Here are some:
1. Due to the oversized IC & radiator, or your driving habits, your engine & turbo(s) might not be creating enough heat to require proper airflow through the radiator and/or intercooler. This would explain why you're seeing the same temperatures with or without ducts. Temps won't be able to go any lower than ambient (air temp) or the thermostat temp (water temp). If this is the reason you're not noticing temperature differences, then your IC and radiator are actually too big. You're carying around extra weight (and pressure drop in the case of the IC) compared to a properly-sized system that uses airflow more efficiently. 2. Your measurements aren't accurate. If you're using the stock intake temperature sender, then you're measuring the temperature of the intake manifold aluminum, which will not change drastically with air temperatures. Unless your intake temps are different when you're on-boost vs. off-boost, this is probably the situation. The same goes for water temps, but the sender is a bit more accurate. You'll notice this when the temperature on the gauge changes after the fans come on. Kento- my eyes hurt now. Please dont' do that anymore. -s- |
just get one and you will see the big different yourself
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Sort of back to the original topic: I have the monster v-mount that will be getting installed in my car soon! Were there any complications or problems with it at all?
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Originally Posted by scotty305
I agree with Kento. A properly ducted system is going to have more air flowing through the IC and radiator, which will make it more efficient. There could be a few reasons why you're not noticing temperature differences. Here are some:
1. Due to the oversized IC & radiator, or your driving habits, your engine & turbo(s) might not be creating enough heat to require proper airflow through the radiator and/or intercooler. This would explain why you're seeing the same temperatures with or without ducts. Temps won't be able to go any lower than ambient (air temp) or the thermostat temp (water temp). If this is the reason you're not noticing temperature differences, then your IC and radiator are actually too big. You're carying around extra weight (and pressure drop in the case of the IC) compared to a properly-sized system that uses airflow more efficiently. 2. Your measurements aren't accurate. If you're using the stock intake temperature sender, then you're measuring the temperature of the intake manifold aluminum, which will not change drastically with air temperatures. Unless your intake temps are different when you're on-boost vs. off-boost, this is probably the situation. The same goes for water temps, but the sender is a bit more accurate. You'll notice this when the temperature on the gauge changes after the fans come on. Kento- my eyes hurt now. Please dont' do that anymore. -s- You are right that the intake temps I get from the UIM is not accurate but if you think about it that means that my intake temps is actually cooler than what it shows on the commander. With hard driving my intake temps go up to about 32c but as soon as I start to cruise it quickly goes back down. As far as water temps I dont have to worry about it since I never had problems with that other than when I was running too cold when I had a drilled out t-stat when I coverted to v-mount without the ducting..my temps wont go over 72c so I replaced it with a non-drilled one. |
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