AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

how about, before we jump onto anything. Give us your complete reading on your HC, CO2, O2, Nox?

I maybe able to help you out here since I am a smog tech here in CA.

-AzEKnightz

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Also, as I recalled your other thread regarding high idle or hunting idle issue? Is that problem solved yet? Because a higher idle and hunting idle can be the cause of your car running "rich" because it was in fact running too lean and the ECU would max out your fuel map to richen the fuel. Maybe that's why you had high O2 readings before.

-AzEKnightz

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

If you have a 93 not sure if it's limited to CA version or not then you will most likely have EGR. That needs to be tested. If you removed the precat that will give you issues passing on idle. With only one small metallic cat it will be hard to pass at speed as well. You can try to borrow a stock cat which would help. There is a filter for the sendary air injection that can be replaced. It's on the inside of the intake manifold just above and slightly behind the secondary fuel rail. You can try flushing out all the carbon with water and/or sea foam. You could reduce your boost but your not failing on NOx, so it's not a heat issue. I think you need to clean out the carbon and borrow a stock converter. If you can't find one to borrow, see if you can turn down your timing to the legal minimum. That is what I had to do to pass my CRX every couple years.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Idle air control valve is trying to compensate for another issue. It would be good to clean it and make sure it's in the correct range but most likely something else is the actual cause. Check cavuum line to MAP sensor.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

CO2@15mph=12.42%
C02@25mph=13.90%

02@15mph=0.19%
02@25mph=0.02%

HC's@15mph=535PPM
HC's@25mph=229PPM

CO@15mph=3.74%
CO@25mph=1.64%

NOX@15mph=59PPM
NOX@25mph=118PPM


That issue has not been solved. I don't have any hunting, but I do have a high idle but its intermittent. I'd rather just post a video of it instead of trying to explain it. I couldn't fine any vacuum leaks anywhere. Im thinking I may have to buy some diagnotic equipment to find the leak

http://www.sendspace.com/file/d7jzw7

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Can you do a test for me? Get under the car, get a rubber mallet, and tap on the Cat please. From that reading, it seems the higher rpm/speed your engine is doing, the more efficient your cat is burning out the HC.

To really figure our if your car is running rich or not, we use the O2 readings to decide that. By 0.19%, at idle which is a normal side but we would normally want to see 0.02 or 0% on O2. And notice @ 25mph test, you at 0.2%O2. Means all the O2 has been used up to convert the HC into CO2s, therefore your CO2 (the efficiency of the burn/combustion) is good (13.90%).

A good cat would be burning at minimum 14%CO2 efficiency.

Please tab on the cat with a rubber mallet and listen for any sort of rattle inside the cat. Another thing is, have you ever smell something like rotten egg when you are driving? If so, then I would recommend getting the Cat replace as the first thing to do.

PM me and there are some tricks that us smog tech knows to lower your HC reading. And 1 thing is what a member mention previously, seafoam.

-AzEKnightz

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

During my clutch job, I used a flash light to peak inside of the precat, and nothing looks broken apart, its really hard to see because of it's design. I also checked my high flow metal substrate converter, and everything inside looks good, shook it and I didnt hear anything. I don't smell any rotten egg scent while driving. In fact the metallic converter I have now is the same one I passed smog with exactly 2 years ago, idk what happened.

These were my smog readings 2 years ago when I passed:

CO2@15mph=14.10%
CO2@25mph=14.10%

02@15mph= 0.94%
02@25mph=1.00%

HC's@15mph=46PPM
HC's@25mph=34PPM

CO@15mph=0.01%
CO@25mph=0.00%

NOX@15mph=537PPM
NOX@25mph=434PPM
(My NOX has been reduced significantly in my recent test if you've noticed, because I cleaned my egr valve)

wstrohm

What is the condition of your air filter?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Air filter is brand new. Heres a list of everything thats been replaced in the past 2 months


- Baker Precision silicone vacuum hoses
- Dale Clark's viton check valves
- New Air Filter
- Tripower dual gauge dash pod
- New NGK plugs and wires
- New Alternator + P/S belts
- New OEM Waterpump+Gasket
- Glowshift Water Temp sensor and Boost Gauge
- Stainless Steel OMP lines
- FC Thermoswitch
- New OEM Fuel Pulsation Damper
- Fuel hose recall kit
- Low mileage rats nest solenoid valves ( cleaned/sanded and tested)
- New 02 sensor
- Several new miscellaneous hose clamps, gaskets and hoses
- New OEM restrictor pills
- 2000 degree heat tape
- Redline synthetic 75W90 tranny fluid
- All brand new shifter bushings, gaskets, and grommets
- Self Fusing silicone heat tape for wiring repairs
- High temp blue zip ties
- New OEM fuel injector grommets
- High temp ceramic gloss black engine paint
- Fuel Injector cleaning+balancing
- New OEM fuel filter and relocation
- Resurfaced OEM flywheel
- Repaired 02 sensor harness connector, AIT sensor harness connector, Water thermosensor harness connector, Thermoswitch harness connector and Alternator harness connector
- New Modified OEM clutch fork
- New Rear main oil seal
- New Rear stationary gear O-Ring
- New OEM throwout bearing
- New OEM Pilot Bearing and Seal
- New OEM Exedy clutch and pressure plate
- Stainless steel clutch line
- Pettit Urethane differential mounts
- New OEM backup light switch
+ A LOT more small repairs not worth mentioning

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Wait, would a higher idle really cause the car to run excessively rich?

millennm

iTrader: (6)

Does the FC thermoswitch cause the engine to stay too cool? I hope not because I put one in. Failing emissions a year ago caused me to replace my cat with a new stock one from Malloy Mazda. I replaced it after I passed emissions at a gas station. I think the guy just felt sorry for me and passed me. What a headache. The new Mazda cat cost alot of $$ even from Ray Crowe. But, Wstrohm installed a new Mazda cat too. Then he passed emissions as you can read in his thread. What's your compression? This winter I put in a new Malloy engine too. Gonna bring it too the service station to see if the new cat and engine made a difference. I got rid of my precat because it cooked my engine bay. But without it I may have trouble in emissions. Maybe the state is just tightening the emissions so much it's becoming impossible to pass. Can't wait to my '94 Rx7 turns 20 years old. Then I can register it as an antique car, which don't have to get emissions tested in NJ.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I dont think the FC thermoswitch has anything to do with emissions. I read somewhere where a guy passed smog in his FD with the engine running at 180 degrees which is cooler then I did test. I did mine at 205F. Im gonna buy the FD fighters garage boost pressure tester to find my leak. I forgot that a vacuum leak causing a high idle would cause a lean condition, therefore the ecu would dump all kinda fuel to protect the engine from detonation. The end result would cause the car to run very rich and fail emissions. My FD idles intermittently between 1300-1400 rpm, and occasionally dropping back to 750 or 1000 rpm when it feels like it.

This may or may not be the solution to my problem but this is where i'm gonna start, thanks AzEKnightz

rlee429

iTrader: (25)

Actually I passed smog without the pre-cat, STOCK cat and the egr disabled TWICE now, ever look at the EGR gasket, tiny hole...

Before the test I installed new leading plugs, waited for the car to warm up and mashed it a bit before I went to the smog station =), tried to get the cat as warm as possible, had a buddy noticed I was circling the block.

I do think your issue here is you have a vacuum leak somewhere, 1300 is really high. Do another spray test. Try testing the one way check valve that goes to the cat to see if u are getting air down there as well.

Also try to find a stock cat that isn't clogged to pass smog, one of the best cats out to there to pass smog.

wstrohm

It's not quite that complicated. If the A/F ratio is too lean because of a vacuum leak, there will be some failures of the mixture to fire. The chambers that fail to fire the excessively lean mixture will exhaust the unburned mix into the cat, which might not be able to handle that much extra unburned HC.

smog-guy707

iTrader: (11)

Why not get a labscope and check your 02 sensor ernesto and see if its working? Your 02 is a great way to see if your vehicle is in fuel control. Remember when checking tho that tghe cpu does opposte of what the 02 sensor reads... if it reads lean it will ritchen it up and vise versa, a stuck 02 will cause a car to fail miserably.

You should still fix your leak/ idle issue anyway


Good luck ernesto

smog-guy707

iTrader: (11)

Why not see if you qualify for goverment assistance? Its 500 bux towards your repairs paid by the state...

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I dont think thats the problem, because I installed a new oem 02 sensor and repaired its harness connector so it plugs in and stays in. I suppose I can check it anyway, no harm in that.

I don't think it'll cost that much to fix this problem. I think its just more of a diagnosing nightmare then anything else but you're right if it does, then I'm pretty sure ill qualify for the government assistance because im pretty poor lol

juicyjosh

iTrader: (29)

a) a T-shirt
b) wasted free bandwidth
c) a fresh look for the club
d) an FD that passes smog without a fresh cat

I'm reviewing for my MCAT in August



A disabled check EGR valve will register a code, which will cause the car to fail, unless 1) the smog dude overlooked that, or 2) you somehow convinced the ecu that it's connected and working.

Going that route would have the feds all over his car checking for what's not OEM.



In another one of his threads on this same issue, he stated his current cat is toast, so it's no wonder the car is failing. I laid it out that the car needs a new cat, which is $200 - $220 installed at any local muffler shop. Last year my POS reman on 60k and worn out oil seals rolling oversized tires passed. Total for the new Magnaflow was $210 installed at Golden Auto in DC. There's also a pic of my passing report in the other thread.

No amount of modifications can take the place of a working cat, as it's the critical piece responsible for passing. It's like replacing your brain with a hamburger then taking hemodialators and wondering why you can't think. Try whatever else, but that car isn't passing without a new cat.

It's not that complicated.

btw I know what it's like to be frustrated. I've been there, and it's do-able. Good luck.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

all i can tell you is my experience with my setup:

Power FC
large streeport
non-seq twins
intake
intercooler
downpipe
cheap catco cat with air pump straight to it
RB dual catback
fully tuned

with a gallon of alky in a 1/4 tank of gas having them stay out of boost I passed but barely. Next time i'll have to go n/a.

so what i'm thinking you should do is buy a PFC since i don't see a computer on your mods list and get the thing tuned up right for drivability. Grab a cheap catco cat (mine was like $80) and you should pass just fine

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

The purpose of the other thread was really to let ppl know that the emission laws may have tightened, I really didnt want it to be another diagnostic thread. I'll try to keep that as the main subject there.

I never stated my cat was toast, its only 2 years old. I just said IF it went bad in 2 years which I doubt, then I wanna find out why, because those converters are expensive and I dont wanna spend hundreds of dollars on another one to mask a more serious problem like an extremely rich A/F.

If I can get a cheap cat for 80 bucks then awesome but I still wanna fix the current issues first, I dont like throwing parts at a problem.

Once I fix the high idle issues, verify that my air injection is working properly, and fix the rich condition, if I fail again with the same readings then I will know for sure the converter is bad.

The high idle im having is a result of the vacuum hose job I did recently. I never had a problem with idle before the job, so I know its something I did, or didn't do right. I'm gonna buy the Fighters Garage boost pressure tester too see whats going on there.

In my case, I have

High HC
High C0
Low NOX

I found this chart in this thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/failed-smog-test-but-not-too-bad-677483/

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you MUST make sure the PORT AIR is working. sometimes you need to go so far as to physically make sure air goes thru those passages.

EGR needs to be there for the visual, and to not have the check engine light on, but other than that its completely useless on a rotary, its like bringing sand to the beach....

the converter preferably is a factory one, as they actually work. the OEM core size is big!

rlee429

iTrader: (25)

Oh I disabled it by having a relay connected to the plugs going to the ecu there is a thread on it =). But I forgot the reason why i disabled it....

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

The factory EGR switch (may be a California only part?) has been known to fail.... either that or the EGR valve itself may be getting stuck.

smog-guy707

iTrader: (11)

If the egr valve was stuck open, you will have a shity *** low idle. Co% and nox go hand n hand, you should not fail for both unless u have a weird problem

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the EGR doesn't work the same on a rotary as it does on a piston engine.

1. the FD egr gasket has about a 5mm hole, its TEENY

2. there is a lot of exhaust gas that gets recirculated just due to the slow gas flow, not having an exhaust valve etc etc