I want to make sure i have everything right in this picture.
so 30 goes to (B) on the solenoid or (M). My first assumption would be B. let me know if i am correct.

Just answered my own question by typing it out. It is B for battery, S for Switch and M for Magnetic.

 

Reporting on the Starter Booster Kit:

1) Install was as easy as Plug & Play

2) Started the car, no more problems, every time on the first try.

 

MINE for free.
Get a good relay. You don't want that crappin' out on you and carry an extra in the car.

If the car is clicking and Starter is good. I'd suggest this. Cranking is wild. Car starts so fast and strong all the time in the coldest days.

 

I sat down and rebuilt my ignition switch after my car started getting progressively harder to start over the past year. After blowing my engine, the car went into storage for a few months and would not turn over the starter AT ALL, no matter how many times I turned the key. I decided it would be a good time to rebuild the ignition switch (hoping that's what it was) so I spent 2 hours sanding and cleaning and greasing it back up.

Car starts like a ******* CHAMP now, I wish I had done it the very first time the car had started acting up!

 

I did a auto to manual swap about 6 years ago and I recently got my car back up and running. I am have this starting problem, where is that starter cut-out switch you speak of? and how do I fix it.

 

How would this work with a relocated battery?

 

I know this is an old thread, but it seems to describe my problem perfectly. In the above diagram, do you have to run the "+12 from battery" wire or is that part of the existing circuit? It's extremely cold here, I'm trying to figure out how to do this quickly without having to fool around with meters or anything.

 

Part of the existing circuit. It's what the starter solenoid switches to, to give the starter full current.

 

I fixed my click, click problem by simply crimping another female connector to the wire going to the starter solenoid. The factory black connector will become loose over time causing loss of signal strength so I just cut it off and crimped on a basic female connector. No more click, click.