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Old 01-05-09, 01:34 PM
  #51  
Jake

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Originally Posted by habu2
Just get a 30A N.O. (Normally Open) relay at an auto parts store, they are usually $5-$7 (you can find them cheaper at an electronics store)



The relay has four terminals labeled 85, 86, 87 and 30. In the above drawing connect the black (ground) wire to 85, yellow to 86, green to 87 and red to 30.

You owe me $50 now...
I want to make sure i have everything right in this picture.
so 30 goes to (B) on the solenoid or (M). My first assumption would be B. let me know if i am correct.

Just answered my own question by typing it out. It is B for battery, S for Switch and M for Magnetic.
Old 01-08-09, 07:53 AM
  #52  
Spanking Pcars

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Thumbs up

Reporting on the Starter Booster Kit:

1) Install was as easy as Plug & Play

2) Started the car, no more problems, every time on the first try.
Old 02-28-09, 05:23 AM
  #53  
LAN
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MINE for free.
Get a good relay. You don't want that crappin' out on you and carry an extra in the car.

If the car is clicking and Starter is good. I'd suggest this. Cranking is wild. Car starts so fast and strong all the time in the coldest days.

Old 03-01-09, 01:51 PM
  #54  
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I sat down and rebuilt my ignition switch after my car started getting progressively harder to start over the past year. After blowing my engine, the car went into storage for a few months and would not turn over the starter AT ALL, no matter how many times I turned the key. I decided it would be a good time to rebuild the ignition switch (hoping that's what it was) so I spent 2 hours sanding and cleaning and greasing it back up.

Car starts like a ******* CHAMP now, I wish I had done it the very first time the car had started acting up!
Old 03-10-10, 07:57 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by zheka
i Had my bad starting issue before but mine was not that it wasn't engaging solenoid, my problem was around starter cut-out switch and ecu.
Did you by any chance had auto to manual swap on yours?
I did a auto to manual swap about 6 years ago and I recently got my car back up and running. I am have this starting problem, where is that starter cut-out switch you speak of? and how do I fix it.
Old 03-10-10, 08:46 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by habu2
Just get a 30A N.O. (Normally Open) relay at an auto parts store, they are usually $5-$7 (you can find them cheaper at an electronics store)



The relay has four terminals labeled 85, 86, 87 and 30. In the above drawing connect the black (ground) wire to 85, yellow to 86, green to 87 and red to 30.

You owe me $50 now...
How would this work with a relocated battery?
Old 11-17-14, 07:02 PM
  #57  
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I know this is an old thread, but it seems to describe my problem perfectly. In the above diagram, do you have to run the "+12 from battery" wire or is that part of the existing circuit? It's extremely cold here, I'm trying to figure out how to do this quickly without having to fool around with meters or anything.
Old 11-27-14, 05:35 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Bobrz1
I know this is an old thread, but it seems to describe my problem perfectly. In the above diagram, do you have to run the "+12 from battery" wire or is that part of the existing circuit? It's extremely cold here, I'm trying to figure out how to do this quickly without having to fool around with meters or anything.
Part of the existing circuit. It's what the starter solenoid switches to, to give the starter full current.
Old 11-27-14, 06:39 PM
  #59  
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I fixed my click, click problem by simply crimping another female connector to the wire going to the starter solenoid. The factory black connector will become loose over time causing loss of signal strength so I just cut it off and crimped on a basic female connector. No more click, click.
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