cover8

Well for some of you keeping an eye on my melodrama.

Blew my new Atkin's rebuild this weekend. Less than 50 miles on it.

I received the wiring harness from Dave and all worked great!

Except the dash cluster that did not work except if I turned the steering wheel left making the tach, oil, coolant, and speedometer come one for an instant (wtf?) Does anyone know what the remedy for this is?

Removed all of the engine codes, the 30, 33 and 39 codes (acv) remedied by removing the solenoid from the acv and reinstalling them under the uim and tucking them there.

Horrible difficulty starting the car. As soon as I recvd the harness (luch time) I plugged it in and the car started right up. When I came home it would only bump but not start. Yes I removed the plugs and all that business. Had to start the car by towing 35mph finally started and idled perfectly....perfect idle 19 mmhg on defi boost guage. The coolant temps were 180F on the mark...using defi temp guage...in fact this never changed during the whole life of the rebuild. Well pulling the car bent my gab strut bar and scratched my new m2 pipe from the turbos to the m2 med ic (fock!).

The car runs nicely to 0psi...sounded great, boost guage needle moved smoothly to 0psi...but here is where the trouble started. Once around 3-5psi sound came from the engine/flywheel area...sounded like pulleys that needed oil...sorta squeeking/screeching sound



Boosting past this and the car smoothed out...but not consistently, sometimes would run smoothly past 3-5 psi and make the same sound at 8psi. Yes, I know boosting a motor during break-in may not be a good idea....but it must be tested, not abused but tested.

Still dont know the cause of that squeeking/schreeching sound.

What could that be? Anyway ,was near the highway, leaving a stop light...slow and easy and noticed the motor exhaust note change....no power and boost guage showed 10mmhg Right away, knew something went horribly wrong...and it did. Removed the plugs from the trailing housing and no "chhh" sound at all...front rotor housing (which broke last time) works perfectly.

What gives? I had them remove the drive plate and change the housing to better mate with a 5 speed tranny after the rebiuld. Could they have done something here? Could an eshaft bearing got loose? Could they have omitted something? Worse yet, they may not cover it this time....

dubulup

Sorry to hear this bro...sorry I don't have any feedback.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Dude you boosted it derhh..
You should not have done that.
I see Ray at PFS rebuild them and run them at the track the next day with no break in, but generally he ends up rebuilding them right away too.
You shouldnt be boosting it at least for 200 miles.

It could be something else, but sounds to me like a corner seal. Either way you definitely lost compression on the rear rotor. Next time be patient. You do the tunning and testing after the break in.

cover8

Could the corner seal be a result of improper rebuild? Trying to see if I have an argument here...The car was not abused at all...and testing was done with reason. How does a corner seal go out?

paw140

Boosting a fresh rebuild *should not* cause an apex seal to break. All the break-in does is allow all the metal-on-metal surfaces to seal correctly, so you'll have good sealing and high compression for the life of the engine. It sounds like they screwed up something.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Was the engine ported?

cover8

no port...just plain ol' 13b...with every bolt torqued to spec...built it on a engine stand so no corners cut on installation/rectification.

The squeeking I thought might be from aluminum flywheel and 6puck ceramic clutch...but this was not the case. Cant imagine what would cause the squeeling unless something inside was untrue....here are my mods:

atkins rebuild....13b
turbo slimplification/rats nest removal
k2rd block off plates
hks dp
pettit resonated mp
hks carbon cb
pettit unlimited
spec ceramic 6 puck
heavy duty pressure plate
8.5 # flywheel
m2 cai
m2 med smic
intake pipes
5 speed
pettit short shifter
neo synthetic
mobil 1 synt

now blown rear seals

spoolage

iTrader: (2)

hmm... did you leave the after market ECU in the parts list you got running on your car??? heh, sounds like you got a pretty beefed up exaust system and no ecu to compensate....

cover8

Wtf? Pettit Unlimited ecu good for 1bar (14.7psi)...dont understand you post

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

There is no way to know what happened for sure until you open the block up.
I would call Atkins, they should cover it since it only lived for 50 miles.

cover8

The motor will be remove this Sunday...I have a football game (arena) in Topeka, KS this Sat so if I am not beat up too bad (play QB), Ill get up early and get going...I think that I can remove the motor in 1 day...since I seem to have some previous experience at this sorta thing.

dubulup

Good luck twice, man!

quick94

i was looking for an engine builder also i called atkins and he quoted me like 3100 street ported and 3mm seals so i was like cool and then like 2 weeks ago i went to sacramento and i stoped in portland and went to pineapple he really knows his stuff so i told him the price i got from atkins and he said he was pretty low so he went in to all the stuff he does to his motors so i was like he know what hes talking about right his price for the same motor was 3700 so 700 difference so i called atkins and i found out y atkins was cheaper atkins doesnt replace bearing, only if they are bad and he uses reman housings were pineapple replaces all the bearings and puts new housings in and also kyrogenically treats the bearings and oil control rings anything that constantly has friction on it so thats y i am going with pineapple thats my 2 cents

cover8

Thanks quick...but this motor came with the car. I have learned so much in the year I have had the car (down 6 months!)

It does bother me kinda...the motor being gone...but the car was not running correctly...some squeeking around 3-6 psi and shuddering the power frame. The car did not feel like 250hp let alone 350hp ever during the life of that motor. As much as it bothers me...I am much more knowledgeable even since rebuilding the last motor...It will also give me piece of mind...one more check...maybe I overlooked something the first time....hard to imagine since you can literally eat off my engine bay...every bolt/nut went through the wire brush...almost surgically clean everywhere.

I am going to purchase the BNR stage 3 and run them sequential. Can I do that with the pettit ecu running say 14psi 93octane? Not sure I want the injector upgrade or the complexity of the PFC (since no tuner in the area)

radkins

You are wanting to run 14lbs with all the bolt-ons, upgraded turbos on a piggyback ECU and no fuel upgrades? It doesn't suprise me that your popping motors. If you don't want the complexity of the PFC, I hope you dont mind the complexity of taking your motor out of your car every year or so.

dubulup

Opps

dubulup

Man, you've got a good look on things, props.

About the III's and sequential, (artguy will probably jump down my throat) I haven't heard of two many success stories with upgraded seq-twins. Since you're tearing down the motor again, why not clean out all that seq crap and run them non-seq. I talked to Brian at BnR and he recommended get II's or I's, if you want seq. He also told me the the III's are so amazing when they come alive he went out a bought a 3rd gen (probably after SPO's car was finished). They spool to 10psi by 3k non-seq (so I hear/read) so why have all that headache with trying to get them to work seq???

my $0.02, and if you're staying with stock fuel set-up...maybe 13psi on 93oct (probably get flammed for that too).

cover8

I meant to say non-sequential or parallel. Pettit unlimited is not a piggyback ecu and I do have the supra TT fuel pump...stock injectors freshly blueprinted and balanced by r/c engineering...not quite sure what fuel upgrades you are talking about? RRPFR (no thanks) larger rails (no thanks)...I am looking for simplicity (paraller turbines), linearity, repeatablilty and not more than 15psig...If I can spool acceptably quick it will negate the advantage of running seq.

I have done tremendous research on the car and modifications...lowering injector duties by increasing injector capacity would seem prudent but this woud require programmable fuel management...and I know me, I am going to **** with it and blow seals like teeth at a hockey game!

cover8

Btw, dubulup, thanks for your support! Really had a tough and very expensive time getting my 7 to operate correctly. I wonder if my injectors are sticking? Hard to possibly imagine a peripheral problem and not single out the motor...would bad injectors idle so well and respond so smoothly to 0psig?

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

With the danger of defending Atkins. Atkins warrantied your first motor right?

If it wasn't running correctly, I really doubt the motor is/was the problem. Find the root cause, don't stop until you do.

Blowing two motors VERY SHORTLY after mods tells me something else is happening. I really doubt that the motor is the problem. Test fuel pressure, injectors, etc, etc...

I also think Atkins test runs all their motors. I know Mazda seems to as the last two remans I bought had obviously run for a short period of time.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Nick,
My suggestions to you are:
1) Pull out your motor and strip it down. Look at the turbos (exhaust blades) many times when the engine is trashed apex seal pieces enter the turbos and ruin them. This may have occoured on your last motor.

2) Lose the Pettit ECU. Buy a power FC and upgrade your 850's to 1300's. (RC engineering).

3) Get your motor rebuilt and ported/polished with upgrades by someone who knows what they are doing.
I am not going to bad mouth another shops work but some shops are good at building garbage out of used parts and they actually will run for a while..

4)Boosting a correctly built motor won't make it grenade. If that was the case then how did Mazda dealers get new RX-7's and boost them hard right off the show room floor ?

5)Lastly, My offer to you still stands. Give me a buzz if you so desire. Good luck...

cover8

These mods were there during the last blow-up and I agree something outside the motor may have gone wrong.

The idle was good...codes were removed before testing. Most of the problems were due to a wiring harness so I had it properly terminated by Dave at KD.

What was that sound? Squeeking badly...shuddering the car. It sounded like something right by the flywheel.

I have a pressure guage on the fuel line at all times...while idling it was somewhere between 35-40 psi...I cannot see the guage while driving so could not tell if that was the problem.

Yes, atkins did warranty the motor last time at a cost of $350 (whatever). But you can bet, I am taking my digital camera and taking pics of evey part I remove step by step to show Atkins the quality of the peripheral assembly. I can assemble that engine in my head now and beleive me, if I focked up, Ill pay for it no problem But I am curious as to what went wrong.

cover8

If the turbos were indeed bad would it spool up so well to 3-5 psi, smooth as ever, then shudder/squeek then hit 10psi and click/squeek/shudder again? Hell, I am just askin'. I inspected the turbos when I remove them the first time. The primary was not as free spinning as the secondary but spun fine to me.

Something was wrong with a major component...doubtful it was a subtle problem.

1) Had vacuum and accel smoothly to 0psi...
2) Idle steady
3) Transition was difficult to evaluate with everything
else going on....but secondarys spooled up great

Example: Trouble coming off the line (8.5# flywheel...ceramic 6puck) but would boost to 5psi when switching gears then I notice the shuddering and metal on metal squeeking at less the 3k rpms (i think) this is not a 30k rpm squeeking like turbos but something more akin to a bearing. Now pulleys will squeek but usually not bog the engine like this did. In fact I never had the car in 4th or 5th gear the whole time. Because of the squeeking and seemingly low power, I kept in in first or second because I needed the power without trying to boost the car.

Plus I had extraordinary problems starting the car. If fact I had to tow it to get it to run...then idled perfectly. Mind you, it was a cold day 30F in MO last weekend.

es

When I was putting my motor together I attempted to install the water pump without a gasket, just some RTV. Well, without the gasket there wasn't enough clearance between the blades & the housing.

Other possible causes of your problem:
Front or rear main bearing
Rotor bearing
improper end play
Front needle bearing off spacer

Run a compression test, then pull the belts & make sure all accessories spin free. Then pull the inlets off the turbos & make sure they spin free.

cover8

Thanks es...but I used two brand new gaskets (paper oem ones). Wouldn't the pump squeek at idle? My car idle smooth...no noise...just when under light load/boost. With these mods I should easily be over the 300rwhp range....no way in the world the car I was driving had that kind of power. Hell, that car would have got smoked by my Prelude Type SH!