Amount of $$ needed to get a rx7 into mid 2 low 12s?
#1
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Amount of $$ needed to get a rx7 into mid 2 low 12s?
I tried searching for this (spent about 1.5hrs doing so) but i could not find a good answer, nor a good set of mods one would need to achieve this? So here I ask, approximately how much money would it take to get a rx7 into like the 12-12.5 range? And exactly what things would be necessary. I am guessing intake, down pipe, mid pipe, exhaust, larger injectors, pully set, larger fuel pump, Power FC, what else? Or maybe you do not need the injectors? I see that at the rx7store.com it has the stage 4 upgrade kit for 3500 bucks and includes these items
Apex Power Intake
Apex N1 Exhaust
Unorthodox Main Drive Pulley
HKS Downpipe
Apex Power FC
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
Midpipe
Fuel Pump
According to that site that should let me go to 14 lbs of boost, so what ya think is that stuff enough for mid to low 12s?
btw this would be on a no street port, stock turbos engine
thanks
krystian
Apex Power Intake
Apex N1 Exhaust
Unorthodox Main Drive Pulley
HKS Downpipe
Apex Power FC
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
Midpipe
Fuel Pump
According to that site that should let me go to 14 lbs of boost, so what ya think is that stuff enough for mid to low 12s?
btw this would be on a no street port, stock turbos engine
thanks
krystian
#2
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ok here is what u need. if u wanna run on stock turbos and a non ported engine.
DP - 200-400
MP or high flo cat - 200-400
CB - 300-600
upgraded ECU standalone is better 1k-1.2k apexi PFC
street/strip clutch 500-600
9lb flywheel - 300-400
FMIC- 1k-2k
intake - 200-500
bigger injectors - 300-400
fuel pump - 200
nitto drags or some sticky hoosiers - 600-1k
pullies - 200-300
the stock turbos shouldent really be boosted above 1 bar but if you dont mind rebuilding them then run as much you want but i doubt that can hold anything more then 20 psi.
u should be in the 12' with this set up add it all up. you can also do things like gut your whole interior to make your car lighter. you can also remove the ac/ps/wiper motor/blades, and air pump.
DP - 200-400
MP or high flo cat - 200-400
CB - 300-600
upgraded ECU standalone is better 1k-1.2k apexi PFC
street/strip clutch 500-600
9lb flywheel - 300-400
FMIC- 1k-2k
intake - 200-500
bigger injectors - 300-400
fuel pump - 200
nitto drags or some sticky hoosiers - 600-1k
pullies - 200-300
the stock turbos shouldent really be boosted above 1 bar but if you dont mind rebuilding them then run as much you want but i doubt that can hold anything more then 20 psi.
u should be in the 12' with this set up add it all up. you can also do things like gut your whole interior to make your car lighter. you can also remove the ac/ps/wiper motor/blades, and air pump.
#3
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Looks like you got a pretty good idea of what mods you need but you are also going to need to know how to drive it. Most of it is up to how well the driver can perform going down the strip.
#4
Originally posted by ttpowerd
Looks like you got a pretty good idea of what mods you need but you are also going to need to know how to drive it. Most of it is up to how well the driver can perform going down the strip.
Looks like you got a pretty good idea of what mods you need but you are also going to need to know how to drive it. Most of it is up to how well the driver can perform going down the strip.
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There have been plenty of FD's run mid/low 12's with only the following:
intake
full exhaust (no cats)
computer
12-13psi boost
pullies (though I don' really know how much these help)
There is really no need for a light flywheel, bigger injectors, fuel pump, or slicks.
Wade
intake
full exhaust (no cats)
computer
12-13psi boost
pullies (though I don' really know how much these help)
There is really no need for a light flywheel, bigger injectors, fuel pump, or slicks.
Wade
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Originally posted by Wade
There have been plenty of FD's run mid/low 12's with only the following:
intake
full exhaust (no cats)
computer
12-13psi boost
pullies (though I don' really know how much these help)
There is really no need for a light flywheel, bigger injectors, fuel pump, or slicks.
Wade
There have been plenty of FD's run mid/low 12's with only the following:
intake
full exhaust (no cats)
computer
12-13psi boost
pullies (though I don' really know how much these help)
There is really no need for a light flywheel, bigger injectors, fuel pump, or slicks.
Wade
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Maybe not slicks, but some decent tires. Don't try and run 12's with crappy all-season tires or some low-brow brand. You'll probably spin them through third gear ...
Putting down that kind of power, you'll want the stronger disc and pressure plate (clutch). The stock clutch will wear out pretty fast under that kind of stress. And while you're in there, you might as well go with the lighter flywheel. And the bigger injectors and fuel pump and for the engine's safety. Better to mod on the side of caution ... unless you like replacing engines.
Putting down that kind of power, you'll want the stronger disc and pressure plate (clutch). The stock clutch will wear out pretty fast under that kind of stress. And while you're in there, you might as well go with the lighter flywheel. And the bigger injectors and fuel pump and for the engine's safety. Better to mod on the side of caution ... unless you like replacing engines.
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I'm not saying there are not good reasons for additional mods, I'm just saying that is all it takes to run mid/low 12's if someone knows what they are doing and kind drive pretty well.
Also, a lot of mods are arguable as far as "erring on the side of caution"... for example:
Some fuel pumps make fuel slosh problems worse... Power FC loses knock control and appears to be mapped leaner than the stock ECU... Some people question the reliability of enlarged injectors. Etc.
Wade
Also, a lot of mods are arguable as far as "erring on the side of caution"... for example:
Some fuel pumps make fuel slosh problems worse... Power FC loses knock control and appears to be mapped leaner than the stock ECU... Some people question the reliability of enlarged injectors. Etc.
Wade
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Wade is right
With a good strong stock motor and turbos. I ran 12.3 @ 113 with intake, full exhaust, PFC running the base map with 12-13psi of boost. I also ran on some worn out Nitto drag radials and stock wheels my 60 foot was 1.89.
EVERYTHING ELSE WAS STOCK ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE CLUTCH.......I did however replace the clutch shortly after hehe
STEPHEN
With a good strong stock motor and turbos. I ran 12.3 @ 113 with intake, full exhaust, PFC running the base map with 12-13psi of boost. I also ran on some worn out Nitto drag radials and stock wheels my 60 foot was 1.89.
EVERYTHING ELSE WAS STOCK ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE CLUTCH.......I did however replace the clutch shortly after hehe
STEPHEN
#12
When it comes down to it you can get an FD3S to run 12s for not that much money. If you buy parts used, you can get a full exhaust for under 600, intake for under 200, and an ECU for anywhere from 400-1000. Throw in a new clutch (500) and some newer REAR tires (300) and some dyno tuning (200) i would say you're ready to go
I really suggest dyno tuning or getting a wideband if you want to make sure the car runs right. You can free up a lot of HP if you have programable ECU as well.
Danny
I really suggest dyno tuning or getting a wideband if you want to make sure the car runs right. You can free up a lot of HP if you have programable ECU as well.
Danny
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With dyno tuning and all the planets aligned in order with really really really good conditions you could come very close to nailing very high 11's with just intake, full exhaust, Power FC dyno tuned and 14psi of boost. I wouldnt reccomend running that high of boost all the time though cause its borderline with no IC and the stock fuel system. it would prob be ok for 1/4 mile though.
STEPHEN
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; 08-07-02 at 12:54 PM.
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Very true. You could also find a different ECU for cheaper that would still give the bump in boost. It's not necessary to go with the standalone. You'll lose some of the tune-ability, but save in the costs. The M2 ECU changes boost to 12 psi, for $700, brand-spankin-new. There are plenty of others as well.
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HKS
Originally posted by fdracer
who the **** makes an intake for $500? i need to get into the intake-making business.
who the **** makes an intake for $500? i need to get into the intake-making business.
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For all of you that replied to this thread.
The question is: Have you run 12's with those
mods you have listed??
And thats on top of your FD running in perfect order.
To many variables to say " such and such " to run
a certain time..
The question is: Have you run 12's with those
mods you have listed??
And thats on top of your FD running in perfect order.
To many variables to say " such and such " to run
a certain time..
#22
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I ran 12.3x @ 113 with the advice I gave earlier.
And yes, my car was in perfect order with good compression and good turbos as it always should be if you racing it.
STEPHEN
And yes, my car was in perfect order with good compression and good turbos as it always should be if you racing it.
STEPHEN
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Originally posted by SPOautos
I ran 12.3x @ 113 with the advice I gave earlier.
And yes, my car was in perfect order with good compression and good turbos as it always should be if you racing it.
STEPHEN
I ran 12.3x @ 113 with the advice I gave earlier.
And yes, my car was in perfect order with good compression and good turbos as it always should be if you racing it.
STEPHEN
Nice times. BTW