Alternative/Replacement for Boost Control Solenoid
#52
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
you can edit your voltage to AFR polynomial under "Auxiliary" for the FC Edit, and under the Analog 1 Out tab.
:-) neil
PS: still looking for an answer on removing both, all, or just the solenoid-side restrictor pill . . .
#53
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
If you are converting to 3 port solenoids, you should remove the pills. Although I have not tried it firsthand, I can see the stock pills leading to spiking.
The screenshot is related to setting up auxiliary inputs (wideband etc). I'm not sure why that was posted. The turbo-related settings are in Settings 1 tab of the FC Edit software. The sequential staging stuff is only accessible with FC-Edit. The boost settings are adjustable with the commander. This is convenient, because you can make a slight tweak or quickly change boost settings without having a laptop hooked up. I do the majority of boost control tuning using FC Edit, but once you get comfortable you can make adjustments on-the-fly with the Commander.
Unfortunately, the PFC doesn't have adjustable air temperature compensation for the feedforward portion of the boost control logic. I typically have a Summer and winter boost setting for applications that are sensitive to weather, or a high and low setting for applications with alternative fuels, etc.
The screenshot is related to setting up auxiliary inputs (wideband etc). I'm not sure why that was posted. The turbo-related settings are in Settings 1 tab of the FC Edit software. The sequential staging stuff is only accessible with FC-Edit. The boost settings are adjustable with the commander. This is convenient, because you can make a slight tweak or quickly change boost settings without having a laptop hooked up. I do the majority of boost control tuning using FC Edit, but once you get comfortable you can make adjustments on-the-fly with the Commander.
Unfortunately, the PFC doesn't have adjustable air temperature compensation for the feedforward portion of the boost control logic. I typically have a Summer and winter boost setting for applications that are sensitive to weather, or a high and low setting for applications with alternative fuels, etc.
#54
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
I just installed the MAC valve just to control the waste-gate:
took out BOTH pills for the waste-gate actuators;
and now the most I see is 10-psi, where previously I was getting 15-psi.
PRI 0.90/70
SEC 0.95/80
Thanks,
:-) neil
#55
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
My setting are:
P1 0.70 48
S1 0.70 54
With this setting i get full boost on primary in a blast, a very quick transition and 10 psi to redline!
Mod are hks downpipe, high flow cat, mazdaspeed exhaust, hks custom smic, WI, stock turbo ported wastegate etc..
Swapping for MAC valve are one of the best mod i have! Thank for sharing the info Sandro
P1 0.70 48
S1 0.70 54
With this setting i get full boost on primary in a blast, a very quick transition and 10 psi to redline!
Mod are hks downpipe, high flow cat, mazdaspeed exhaust, hks custom smic, WI, stock turbo ported wastegate etc..
Swapping for MAC valve are one of the best mod i have! Thank for sharing the info Sandro
#65
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
Diagram explains it very well. The top configuration, where there are two nipples on the actuator, is a less common design. The FD Rx-7 and Mk IV Supra had it.
The second configuration is very common. The 2nd gen Rx-7 has it. You'll see it on basically every turbo Subaru. It's still functionally very similar to the top configuration.
The third configuration is normal with aftermarket boost controllers and some OEM designs. The R35 GT-R uses a 3 port. So does the Neon SRT-4.
The newest turbo stuff uses vacuum or electric actuators, FYI.
The second configuration is very common. The 2nd gen Rx-7 has it. You'll see it on basically every turbo Subaru. It's still functionally very similar to the top configuration.
The third configuration is normal with aftermarket boost controllers and some OEM designs. The R35 GT-R uses a 3 port. So does the Neon SRT-4.
The newest turbo stuff uses vacuum or electric actuators, FYI.
#66
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
FWIW- I had some nasty boost spikes with NO pills on the line from the MAC solenoid to WG actuator.
I emailed Bryan of BNR, and he said keep ONE pill between the actuator and the MAC valve(s) when using the PFC to control the MAC valves.
Since I'm still using the stock solenoid to control the PC, it still has BOTH pills (stock).
All is good now!
I attached a drawing of my setup with the BNR's.
Please note that my STOCK setup had pills on BOTH lines (4-pills total) going to the actuators.
:-) neil
I emailed Bryan of BNR, and he said keep ONE pill between the actuator and the MAC valve(s) when using the PFC to control the MAC valves.
Since I'm still using the stock solenoid to control the PC, it still has BOTH pills (stock).
All is good now!
I attached a drawing of my setup with the BNR's.
Please note that my STOCK setup had pills on BOTH lines (4-pills total) going to the actuators.
:-) neil
#67
2SoonJr
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: OrangeCounty-Santa Ana
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
does this MAC solenoid setup work only if you have a Power FC??
well more importantly, after reading this thread i was curious to know if this is what im looking for or not especially since im running the 5 solenoids rack for my simplified sequential set up when the MAC solenoid set up only requires 2 of them...
im still using the stock solenoids and stock ecu but want to upgrade to better aftermarket version but a $700 price tag isn't really in my budget.
any help would be greatly appreciated
TIA
-Ricky
well more importantly, after reading this thread i was curious to know if this is what im looking for or not especially since im running the 5 solenoids rack for my simplified sequential set up when the MAC solenoid set up only requires 2 of them...
im still using the stock solenoids and stock ecu but want to upgrade to better aftermarket version but a $700 price tag isn't really in my budget.
any help would be greatly appreciated
TIA
-Ricky
#68
ArmitageFD3S
iTrader: (13)
Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead but it contains some awesome info so no harm I s'pose.
My pre-control solenoid gave up the ghost at the track last weekend resulting in an overboost condition only under primary turbo operation. Thankfully my extremely low overboost settings on the PFC kicked in and saved the day. I am using the the PFC w/datalogit to control my boost per arghx's notes and have no external controller.
My question is this: the wastegate solenoid still tests out okay so should I continue using it and just replace the pre-control solenoid with the MAC part or would that be foolish?
Thanks!
My pre-control solenoid gave up the ghost at the track last weekend resulting in an overboost condition only under primary turbo operation. Thankfully my extremely low overboost settings on the PFC kicked in and saved the day. I am using the the PFC w/datalogit to control my boost per arghx's notes and have no external controller.
My question is this: the wastegate solenoid still tests out okay so should I continue using it and just replace the pre-control solenoid with the MAC part or would that be foolish?
Thanks!
#70
ArmitageFD3S
iTrader: (13)
Got my solenoids and pigtails only 2 days after ordering from their respective vendors and installed them this weekend. My OEM precontrol solenoid had failed completely. I also tested my wastegate solenoid and it had a pretty bad leak.
My impressions after my first drive with the MAC replacements is that primary throttle response is improved, the transition is much smoother, and it just feels like a new car again. I didn't even have to change any of my PFC settings (was already using it to control boost before). Not bad for 1/2 the price of OEM replacements + a few hours of time.
Here's what I came up with:
Fitting installed with teflon tape and pigtails from Ballenger soldered and heatshinked:
Custom bracket:
Installed under my K&N filters go:
My impressions after my first drive with the MAC replacements is that primary throttle response is improved, the transition is much smoother, and it just feels like a new car again. I didn't even have to change any of my PFC settings (was already using it to control boost before). Not bad for 1/2 the price of OEM replacements + a few hours of time.
Here's what I came up with:
Fitting installed with teflon tape and pigtails from Ballenger soldered and heatshinked:
Custom bracket:
Installed under my K&N filters go:
#72
ArmitageFD3S
iTrader: (13)
Yea, I'm really happy with how these worked out. Thanks to you and Sandro for paving the way and making it easy for us to follow. Between the AMP connector and the solenoid leads, there was just enough length to do a clean run to the factory plugs without adding any additional wire. I had thought about mounting back near the firewall/ABS unit where there's more space but I didn't want to sacrifice response by having really long vacuum lines run to/from there.
#74
ArmitageFD3S
iTrader: (13)
I just measured the best MPG I've ever seen with the last tank: 19.5 combined. I can't for the life of me tie this to the fact the old solenoids were failing but I haven't changed anything else with the car. While the throttle response and turbo spool feel better, could failing solenoids really cause a measurable change in fuel economy?