All this talk about reliability mods but....
11-05-01, 04:12 PM
#1
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All this talk about reliability mods but....
what are the actual results?
Questions to the forum:
1. Which RELIABILITY mods have you installed?
2. Which PERFORMANCE mods, if any, have you installed?
3. How many miles do you have on your current engine?
4. How many miles have you put on since the mods were performed?
5. Have you had any major repairs performed BEFORE making the modifications? If so, what was done?
6. Have you had any major repairs performed AFTER making the modification? If so, what was done?
7. Sidebar, what is your "care" routine? What are the things you do to care for your FD? i.e. cool down, warm up, oil changes, etc.
8. Are the reliabilty mods worth the expense?
Looking forward to your responses.
Thanks and Regards,
Zelig
Questions to the forum:
1. Which RELIABILITY mods have you installed?
2. Which PERFORMANCE mods, if any, have you installed?
3. How many miles do you have on your current engine?
4. How many miles have you put on since the mods were performed?
5. Have you had any major repairs performed BEFORE making the modifications? If so, what was done?
6. Have you had any major repairs performed AFTER making the modification? If so, what was done?
7. Sidebar, what is your "care" routine? What are the things you do to care for your FD? i.e. cool down, warm up, oil changes, etc.
8. Are the reliabilty mods worth the expense?
Looking forward to your responses.
Thanks and Regards,
Zelig
11-05-01, 05:15 PM
#2
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Posts: n/a
the idea with the rotary is keep it cool and keep it free of detonation
I have 45k on the original engine and turbos...runs like a raped ape....most of my mods were installed at 18k
at minimum, you must lose the factory downpipe, it is horribly restrictive and causes the engine and turbos to run very hot and, eventually, fail...it also increases engine bay heat which rots out the little vacuum lines
I run a full 3-inch exhaust, no cats...next to zip backpressure...turbos do not "need" backpressure...that is BS....the less, the better...just keep your boost levels in check with a manual or electronic boost controller
chuck the stock IC...it is a worthless POS...vastly undersized to cool off the 220 F turbo intake charge
chuck the AST and get an aluminum one...they can burst...most people say get a bigger radiator, too, but I have had no problems
get an fuel computer so you always have plenty of gas...these engines are thirsty....relocate the fuel filter to the engine bay and clean it often
run cold spark plugs (NGK 9s)
run only standard (green) antifreeze and change it yearly
that's about it, as far as must do items....this car is the most fun you can have with your pants on, esp with 300+ RWHP...it requires a little extra TLC, but it's well worth the effort....hey, sex with a hot chick doesn't come without maintenace, either...
I have 45k on the original engine and turbos...runs like a raped ape....most of my mods were installed at 18k
at minimum, you must lose the factory downpipe, it is horribly restrictive and causes the engine and turbos to run very hot and, eventually, fail...it also increases engine bay heat which rots out the little vacuum lines
I run a full 3-inch exhaust, no cats...next to zip backpressure...turbos do not "need" backpressure...that is BS....the less, the better...just keep your boost levels in check with a manual or electronic boost controller
chuck the stock IC...it is a worthless POS...vastly undersized to cool off the 220 F turbo intake charge
chuck the AST and get an aluminum one...they can burst...most people say get a bigger radiator, too, but I have had no problems
get an fuel computer so you always have plenty of gas...these engines are thirsty....relocate the fuel filter to the engine bay and clean it often
run cold spark plugs (NGK 9s)
run only standard (green) antifreeze and change it yearly
that's about it, as far as must do items....this car is the most fun you can have with your pants on, esp with 300+ RWHP...it requires a little extra TLC, but it's well worth the effort....hey, sex with a hot chick doesn't come without maintenace, either...
11-05-01, 07:33 PM
#3
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I replaced the downpipe to eliminate the heat and for the performance gains. It does indeed reduce temp significantly(both R and P).
I replaced the muffler with the RB dual tip just because the stock one rusted out, although it sounds better now(not like a vacuum under boost),P.
Replace ALL the coolant hoses. I blew the one off the turbo within a day of getting the car. R
Modding the car requires more mods. After putting on the RB intake and K&N filter(both P), my intercooler began to bend the flanges. So I had to get a boost gauge(R and P) and intercooler straps(R). I didn't feel like spending $1k yet on an intercooler.
Then the car's 3k hesitation got much worse. I replaced the firewall ground, exhaust with those listed in the TSB. I cleaned up all the other grounds(all R). Terrible 3K hesitation. Now I'm going to need a Apexi PFC to get it to run right.
All this intake stuff makes the car run too rich, oil smells like gas within 1000 mi. Makes you change the oil frequently(R).
When I pulled the intercooler out, I found that 1 cooling fan did not work. Fixed it(R, check your fans). Still running the stock AST. I'm considering replacing it(R).
I changed the wires as part of a tune up (R&P). Took the opportunity to put in a new oil filler O-ring.
Put in the 12lb flywheel when I had the trans fixed (2nd gear and 5th). Flywheel is definately a performance mod you'll notice. I wouldn't call it a reliability mod, though. It makes the car harder to get out of 1st gear.
Change the coolant yearly, and the brake fluid. I got a power bleeder for the brakes. Both R mods. Most people don't do the brake fluid, but it helps down the road. I got 150k+ miles from my 2nd gen before doing caliper work.
If you are going to race, make sure your rear suspension is up to par or rebuilt. I've blown RR shocks and now I think I've either done in the Power Plant Frame or differential mounts.
I think my car is on the second motor(or so Mazda tells me). 80k miles and pulls strong. At least 10 mi on this motor???
I let the car warm up until I get normal idle before I do more than 4 PSI and 4000 rpm. After I run it hard, I let it cool 5+ minutes on the way home. If I was really into it, I'll let it idle before I park it (I am my own turbo timer). If it is still hot, I'll turn it off and turn the key on so the fans come on. Often, I pop the hood to let the heat out.
The car has been a pain since changing the intake. I would suggest getting a PFC soon after you do this.
I would say coolant lines, down pipe, AST, and overdo the regular maintenance are worth it. Mod the car if you want to do more mods. More power means cutting into Mazda's designed-in safety factor (which is not as high as Toyota). Expect things to break when you up the HP (especially if you car has some miles on it).
I replaced the muffler with the RB dual tip just because the stock one rusted out, although it sounds better now(not like a vacuum under boost),P.
Replace ALL the coolant hoses. I blew the one off the turbo within a day of getting the car. R
Modding the car requires more mods. After putting on the RB intake and K&N filter(both P), my intercooler began to bend the flanges. So I had to get a boost gauge(R and P) and intercooler straps(R). I didn't feel like spending $1k yet on an intercooler.
Then the car's 3k hesitation got much worse. I replaced the firewall ground, exhaust with those listed in the TSB. I cleaned up all the other grounds(all R). Terrible 3K hesitation. Now I'm going to need a Apexi PFC to get it to run right.
All this intake stuff makes the car run too rich, oil smells like gas within 1000 mi. Makes you change the oil frequently(R).
When I pulled the intercooler out, I found that 1 cooling fan did not work. Fixed it(R, check your fans). Still running the stock AST. I'm considering replacing it(R).
I changed the wires as part of a tune up (R&P). Took the opportunity to put in a new oil filler O-ring.
Put in the 12lb flywheel when I had the trans fixed (2nd gear and 5th). Flywheel is definately a performance mod you'll notice. I wouldn't call it a reliability mod, though. It makes the car harder to get out of 1st gear.
Change the coolant yearly, and the brake fluid. I got a power bleeder for the brakes. Both R mods. Most people don't do the brake fluid, but it helps down the road. I got 150k+ miles from my 2nd gen before doing caliper work.
If you are going to race, make sure your rear suspension is up to par or rebuilt. I've blown RR shocks and now I think I've either done in the Power Plant Frame or differential mounts.
I think my car is on the second motor(or so Mazda tells me). 80k miles and pulls strong. At least 10 mi on this motor???
I let the car warm up until I get normal idle before I do more than 4 PSI and 4000 rpm. After I run it hard, I let it cool 5+ minutes on the way home. If I was really into it, I'll let it idle before I park it (I am my own turbo timer). If it is still hot, I'll turn it off and turn the key on so the fans come on. Often, I pop the hood to let the heat out.
The car has been a pain since changing the intake. I would suggest getting a PFC soon after you do this.
I would say coolant lines, down pipe, AST, and overdo the regular maintenance are worth it. Mod the car if you want to do more mods. More power means cutting into Mazda's designed-in safety factor (which is not as high as Toyota). Expect things to break when you up the HP (especially if you car has some miles on it).
11-05-01, 07:35 PM
#4
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Originally posted by misdbman
I replaced the downpipe to eliminate the heat and for the performance gains. It does indeed reduce temp significantly(both R and P). I replaced the O2 sensor at the same time because I dropped the downpipe with the stock sensor connected and frayed the wire.
I replaced the muffler with the RB dual tip just because the stock one rusted out, although it sounds better now(not like a vacuum under boost),P.
Replace ALL the coolant hoses. I blew the one off the turbo within a day of getting the car. R
Modding the car requires more mods. After putting on the RB intake and K&N filter(both P), my intercooler began to bend the flanges. So I had to get a boost gauge(R and P) and intercooler straps(R). I didn't feel like spending $1k yet on an intercooler.
Then the car's 3k hesitation got much worse. I replaced the firewall ground, exhaust with those listed in the TSB. I cleaned up all the other grounds(all R). Terrible 3K hesitation. Now I'm going to need a Apexi PFC to get it to run right.
All this intake stuff makes the car run too rich, oil smells like gas within 1000 mi. Makes you change the oil frequently(R).
When I pulled the intercooler out, I found that 1 cooling fan did not work. Fixed it(R, check your fans). Still running the stock AST. I'm considering replacing it(R).
I changed the wires as part of a tune up (R&P). Took the opportunity to put in a new oil filler O-ring.
Put in the 12lb flywheel when I had the trans fixed (2nd gear and 5th). Flywheel is definately a performance mod you'll notice. I wouldn't call it a reliability mod, though. It makes the car harder to get out of 1st gear.
Change the coolant yearly, and the brake fluid. I got a power bleeder for the brakes. Both R mods. Most people don't do the brake fluid, but it helps down the road. I got 150k+ miles from my 2nd gen before doing caliper work.
If you are going to race, make sure your rear suspension is up to par or rebuilt. I've blown RR shocks and now I think I've either done in the Power Plant Frame or differential mounts.
I think my car is on the second motor(or so Mazda tells me). 80k miles and pulls strong. At least 10 mi on this motor???
I let the car warm up until I get normal idle before I do more than 4 PSI and 4000 rpm. After I run it hard, I let it cool 5+ minutes on the way home. If I was really into it, I'll let it idle before I park it (I am my own turbo timer). If it is still hot, I'll turn it off and turn the key on so the fans come on. Often, I pop the hood to let the heat out.
The car has been a pain since changing the intake. I would suggest getting a PFC soon after you do this.
I would say coolant lines, down pipe, AST, and overdo the regular maintenance are worth it. Mod the car if you want to do more mods. More power means cutting into Mazda's designed-in safety factor (which is not as high as Toyota). Expect things to break when you up the HP (especially if you car has some miles on it).
I replaced the downpipe to eliminate the heat and for the performance gains. It does indeed reduce temp significantly(both R and P). I replaced the O2 sensor at the same time because I dropped the downpipe with the stock sensor connected and frayed the wire.
I replaced the muffler with the RB dual tip just because the stock one rusted out, although it sounds better now(not like a vacuum under boost),P.
Replace ALL the coolant hoses. I blew the one off the turbo within a day of getting the car. R
Modding the car requires more mods. After putting on the RB intake and K&N filter(both P), my intercooler began to bend the flanges. So I had to get a boost gauge(R and P) and intercooler straps(R). I didn't feel like spending $1k yet on an intercooler.
Then the car's 3k hesitation got much worse. I replaced the firewall ground, exhaust with those listed in the TSB. I cleaned up all the other grounds(all R). Terrible 3K hesitation. Now I'm going to need a Apexi PFC to get it to run right.
All this intake stuff makes the car run too rich, oil smells like gas within 1000 mi. Makes you change the oil frequently(R).
When I pulled the intercooler out, I found that 1 cooling fan did not work. Fixed it(R, check your fans). Still running the stock AST. I'm considering replacing it(R).
I changed the wires as part of a tune up (R&P). Took the opportunity to put in a new oil filler O-ring.
Put in the 12lb flywheel when I had the trans fixed (2nd gear and 5th). Flywheel is definately a performance mod you'll notice. I wouldn't call it a reliability mod, though. It makes the car harder to get out of 1st gear.
Change the coolant yearly, and the brake fluid. I got a power bleeder for the brakes. Both R mods. Most people don't do the brake fluid, but it helps down the road. I got 150k+ miles from my 2nd gen before doing caliper work.
If you are going to race, make sure your rear suspension is up to par or rebuilt. I've blown RR shocks and now I think I've either done in the Power Plant Frame or differential mounts.
I think my car is on the second motor(or so Mazda tells me). 80k miles and pulls strong. At least 10 mi on this motor???
I let the car warm up until I get normal idle before I do more than 4 PSI and 4000 rpm. After I run it hard, I let it cool 5+ minutes on the way home. If I was really into it, I'll let it idle before I park it (I am my own turbo timer). If it is still hot, I'll turn it off and turn the key on so the fans come on. Often, I pop the hood to let the heat out.
The car has been a pain since changing the intake. I would suggest getting a PFC soon after you do this.
I would say coolant lines, down pipe, AST, and overdo the regular maintenance are worth it. Mod the car if you want to do more mods. More power means cutting into Mazda's designed-in safety factor (which is not as high as Toyota). Expect things to break when you up the HP (especially if you car has some miles on it).
11-05-01, 09:27 PM
#5
Originally posted by misdbman
If I was really into it, I'll let it idle before I park it (I am my own turbo timer). If it is still hot, I'll turn it off and turn the key on so the fans come on. Often, I pop the hood to let the heat out.
If I was really into it, I'll let it idle before I park it (I am my own turbo timer). If it is still hot, I'll turn it off and turn the key on so the fans come on. Often, I pop the hood to let the heat out.
1. Do the Fan Mod. Turn it on a couple minutes before you reach your destination while staying off the turbos.
2. Poor Mans Fan Mod- Pull the AC Fuse. Now the AC button will act as a Fan Mod switch with the fan turned on.
3. Turn the Parking Lights on before you turn the car off. Wait for the cooling fans to kick in(they'll kick in alot sooner). With the hood up, engine running, and the fans going, both the engine and turbos will be cooled down. When the fan kicks off, you're done
11-06-01, 07:16 AM
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Not sure why my last post went up twice, but thanks for the additional fan ideas. Also, if you leave the ignition on with the motor off for 3 minutes, the fans will stay on for 10 minutes by themselves.
I don't particularly like the existing 'fan mod'. What I am spec-ing out is a turbo-timer type mod. This way you can just shut off the motor and run the fans for any time period you would like.
I may have mispoke about changing my intake. I first changed the intake (still ran ok), then I changed the downpipe. The car ran crappy after this and the O2 sensor. I think it comes down to opening up the engine flow. It probably would have run ok with the downpipe without the intake mod.
I would probably add replacing the vacuum hoses under the intake to the valuable reliability mods. Just don't get tubing which will collapse under vacuum.
I don't particularly like the existing 'fan mod'. What I am spec-ing out is a turbo-timer type mod. This way you can just shut off the motor and run the fans for any time period you would like.
I may have mispoke about changing my intake. I first changed the intake (still ran ok), then I changed the downpipe. The car ran crappy after this and the O2 sensor. I think it comes down to opening up the engine flow. It probably would have run ok with the downpipe without the intake mod.
I would probably add replacing the vacuum hoses under the intake to the valuable reliability mods. Just don't get tubing which will collapse under vacuum.
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