All this cash ! woot woot
#1
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All this cash ! woot woot
woo not that much.. 2,000$
My setup goes like this: hks intakes, downpipe and catback. Aluminum AST and a apexi BOV.
What to do with my money.. mixed ideas in my head... I want to run no cat, I want an ecu and I want my car to keep cool.
HELP
My setup goes like this: hks intakes, downpipe and catback. Aluminum AST and a apexi BOV.
What to do with my money.. mixed ideas in my head... I want to run no cat, I want an ecu and I want my car to keep cool.
HELP
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- Power FC (commander is not necessary if you have someone with datalog) - $900
- Straightpipe - have a muffler shop make you one
- Greddy elbow - $250
- Fluidyne radiator - $500
- Stainless braided coolant hoses - $50
- Vacuum line job - $400 (or $120 in parts if you can do it yourself)
That might help out a bit. The Power FC will erase any limits on future mods, because you can always retune it. The straightpipe will go well with the other mods you have. The Radiator....well, I personally would wait and get a Koyo stand-up radiator when you go to a FMIC, or do both radiator/intercooler together in a V-mount - but that would take up all of your money by itself, and wouldn't leave any for the PFC. You need the ECU before you modify any other power stuff. The vacuum line job is a nice addition and would help with reliability. If you want cooling help, search for the fan mod and the Miata thermoswitch. Those help, so I hear. You also might want to look at a nice Blitz SMIC, which would help out on performance. In the end, though, it's your money - do with it as you please.
- Straightpipe - have a muffler shop make you one
- Greddy elbow - $250
- Fluidyne radiator - $500
- Stainless braided coolant hoses - $50
- Vacuum line job - $400 (or $120 in parts if you can do it yourself)
That might help out a bit. The Power FC will erase any limits on future mods, because you can always retune it. The straightpipe will go well with the other mods you have. The Radiator....well, I personally would wait and get a Koyo stand-up radiator when you go to a FMIC, or do both radiator/intercooler together in a V-mount - but that would take up all of your money by itself, and wouldn't leave any for the PFC. You need the ECU before you modify any other power stuff. The vacuum line job is a nice addition and would help with reliability. If you want cooling help, search for the fan mod and the Miata thermoswitch. Those help, so I hear. You also might want to look at a nice Blitz SMIC, which would help out on performance. In the end, though, it's your money - do with it as you please.
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Re: All this cash ! woot woot
Originally posted by expl0d
woo not that much.. 2,000$
My setup goes like this: hks intakes, downpipe and catback. Aluminum AST and a apexi BOV.
What to do with my money.. mixed ideas in my head... I want to run no cat, I want an ecu and I want my car to keep cool.
HELP
woo not that much.. 2,000$
My setup goes like this: hks intakes, downpipe and catback. Aluminum AST and a apexi BOV.
What to do with my money.. mixed ideas in my head... I want to run no cat, I want an ecu and I want my car to keep cool.
HELP
Just thought I'd throw that out, since I am thinking about which IC to go with and which intake kit I would have to get to go with the IC.
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#9
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Hm. first I have to find a good mechanic and find where my vac/boost leak is. Cause when I run my air conditioning, my car stalls when the rpms are low.
I think I might get a apexi p-fc, make my own straightpipe then go:
- Greddy elbow - $250
- Fluidyne radiator - $500
- Stainless braided coolant hoses - $50
- Vacuum line job - $400 (or $120 in parts if you can do it yourself)
whee i love you guys so helpful. where would I be without these forums.
I think I might get a apexi p-fc, make my own straightpipe then go:
- Greddy elbow - $250
- Fluidyne radiator - $500
- Stainless braided coolant hoses - $50
- Vacuum line job - $400 (or $120 in parts if you can do it yourself)
whee i love you guys so helpful. where would I be without these forums.
Last edited by expl0d; 08-19-03 at 10:40 PM.
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Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
Sell the BOV to a ricer and use the money to get a functional mod.
Sell the BOV to a ricer and use the money to get a functional mod.
Explod,
At this time in your modding path, you really dont need a Greddy elbow. YOu could also use that money for other mods that will make a difference (ECU, DP, etc).
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woo not that much.. 2,000$
My setup goes like this: hks intakes, downpipe and catback. Aluminum AST and a apexi BOV.
thats whats on my car now. (well will be tommarow.. downpipe and intakes are arrving)
My setup goes like this: hks intakes, downpipe and catback. Aluminum AST and a apexi BOV.
thats whats on my car now. (well will be tommarow.. downpipe and intakes are arrving)
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im lookng at pettitracing.com for the ecu. they say they have a few different ones but the only one i see or can find access to read about is the one for $700.. ?
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Ok, here is what I think you should do.
First off, sell your BOV and use the money to buy a Radiator.
Look around for a Used Stock Mount Intercooler set up. I think Cyberben is selling his PFS set up soon.
Invest in an ECU. If you want to do more upgrades in the future get a Power FC. Use the rest of the money to get it tuned. If you don't plan on upgrading past this, then find a used Pettit ECU.
First off, sell your BOV and use the money to buy a Radiator.
Look around for a Used Stock Mount Intercooler set up. I think Cyberben is selling his PFS set up soon.
Invest in an ECU. If you want to do more upgrades in the future get a Power FC. Use the rest of the money to get it tuned. If you don't plan on upgrading past this, then find a used Pettit ECU.
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what went in place of the bov? cause the car came with the bov. and how much can i expect for it? i still have the box and manuals (even though theyre all in japanese)
Last edited by expl0d; 08-20-03 at 10:40 AM.
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If you're going to get an intercooler, I'd suggest the Blitz FMIC. It goes in better, and doesn't require the cutting necessary to get the Greddy to fit.
Also, maybe look into getting an Unorthadox Pulley set
Also, maybe look into getting an Unorthadox Pulley set
#21
Originally posted by Jonesboro
Complete all of the reliability mods before pumping any money into performance mods!
Complete all of the reliability mods before pumping any money into performance mods!
what all would you consider a reliability mod?
thanks
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Downpipe, Intercooler, ECU, intercooler piping (elbow and such), Efini y-pipe (to reduce the likelihood of a boost leak there), Vacuum hoses, fuel lines (maybe), fuel filter, do the Fan Mod, Radiator, battery relocation (heat kills the battery - put it behind the seat) - stuff like that. Street porting and upgraded apex seals can only be done if you rebuild an engine.
#23
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Reliability Mods
I consider the important reliability mods to fall in a few catagories.
1. Improve Engine cooling:
Install a larger radiator.
Install an aluminum AST.
Do the fan mod so you can turn on the rad fans whenever you desire.
Linearize your temp gauge or get an aftermarket temp gauge so you can accurately monitor your engine temp.
Install a Miata thermosensor which will automatically turn the rad fans on at a lower temp.
(PFC with Datalogit will do a few of the above)
2. Keep the Fuel Flowing:
Change the fuel filter now and on a regular low mileage basis.
Install a new Fuel Pulsation Damper (FPD) now. The FPD that came with your car is now 10 years old and that seems to be about when FPD failures begin to show up. When they fail the result is an engine fire.
Clean the fuel injectors and keep them clean. Consider sending the injectors off for cleaning when replacing the FPD.
3. Eliminate Hose Failures Before They Happen:
Inspect all water and vacuum hoses for cracks, brittleness, and aging.
Replace all bad vacuum hoses with silicon hoses. (Consider doing the complete vacuum hose job when you replace the FPD.)
4. Reduce Underhood Temperatures:
Replace the precat with a downpipe. (This mod also gets rid of the potential for the precat clogging failure.)
Consider ceramic coating the downpipe.
5. Monitor the Engine Closely:
Accurate temp gauge previously mentioned.
Install a boost gauge and monitor boost.
(Best overall system monitoring mod is the PFC which is also the first step towards performance mods because it allows for engine tuning.)
6. Watch Out for Detonation:
As soon as you get on the path of increasing performance (i.e. increasing boost) install a larger intercooler to reduce your charge temperatures and reduce the risk of detonation.
7. Change the ECU:
The stock ECU has a limited ability to handle performance mods.
8. Tune Your Engine:
Don't just assume that your engine can handle numerous performance mods and still run well. If you are going to mod the engine you need to be able to adjust the timing and A/F ratios.
In my mind all of the above are reliability mods not performance mods. Everyone else can feel free to add to this list.
1. Improve Engine cooling:
Install a larger radiator.
Install an aluminum AST.
Do the fan mod so you can turn on the rad fans whenever you desire.
Linearize your temp gauge or get an aftermarket temp gauge so you can accurately monitor your engine temp.
Install a Miata thermosensor which will automatically turn the rad fans on at a lower temp.
(PFC with Datalogit will do a few of the above)
2. Keep the Fuel Flowing:
Change the fuel filter now and on a regular low mileage basis.
Install a new Fuel Pulsation Damper (FPD) now. The FPD that came with your car is now 10 years old and that seems to be about when FPD failures begin to show up. When they fail the result is an engine fire.
Clean the fuel injectors and keep them clean. Consider sending the injectors off for cleaning when replacing the FPD.
3. Eliminate Hose Failures Before They Happen:
Inspect all water and vacuum hoses for cracks, brittleness, and aging.
Replace all bad vacuum hoses with silicon hoses. (Consider doing the complete vacuum hose job when you replace the FPD.)
4. Reduce Underhood Temperatures:
Replace the precat with a downpipe. (This mod also gets rid of the potential for the precat clogging failure.)
Consider ceramic coating the downpipe.
5. Monitor the Engine Closely:
Accurate temp gauge previously mentioned.
Install a boost gauge and monitor boost.
(Best overall system monitoring mod is the PFC which is also the first step towards performance mods because it allows for engine tuning.)
6. Watch Out for Detonation:
As soon as you get on the path of increasing performance (i.e. increasing boost) install a larger intercooler to reduce your charge temperatures and reduce the risk of detonation.
7. Change the ECU:
The stock ECU has a limited ability to handle performance mods.
8. Tune Your Engine:
Don't just assume that your engine can handle numerous performance mods and still run well. If you are going to mod the engine you need to be able to adjust the timing and A/F ratios.
In my mind all of the above are reliability mods not performance mods. Everyone else can feel free to add to this list.
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I think thats my list. thank you I appreciate it. 1 Quesiton, the manual fan switch... Where can thi sbe purchased at when to turn it on ? Cause I think I might have my dad order a koyo radiator or dirt cheap through his work.
thanks again
thanks again