Alarm is still pissing me off
08-19-03, 08:57 PM
#1
Alarm is still pissing me off
My alarm is out of control (factory alarm)
I cannot lock any of the doors or the alarm goes off. It also will not disable itself by inserting the key in the door lock. I have to pull the cabel off the battery.
I assume that when it went to the body shop last year they forgot to tighten a ground all the way or something like that.
I posted about this a few months ago. One member suggested unplugging the electrical connection on the hood in an attempt to trick the alarm to beliving that a door is still open and thus not arming itself.
I gave that a go. It sounded as good an idea as any. Well that didn't do it. So now I'm back to square one.
Anyone ever had this problem or know of a sure fire way to disable the factory alarm for good??
Dave
I cannot lock any of the doors or the alarm goes off. It also will not disable itself by inserting the key in the door lock. I have to pull the cabel off the battery.
I assume that when it went to the body shop last year they forgot to tighten a ground all the way or something like that.
I posted about this a few months ago. One member suggested unplugging the electrical connection on the hood in an attempt to trick the alarm to beliving that a door is still open and thus not arming itself.
I gave that a go. It sounded as good an idea as any. Well that didn't do it. So now I'm back to square one.
Anyone ever had this problem or know of a sure fire way to disable the factory alarm for good??
Dave
Last edited by Fd3BOOST; 08-19-03 at 09:00 PM.
08-19-03, 09:02 PM
#3
Originally posted by Palumbo1337
listen to your music really loud =\
listen to your music really loud =\
Once the alarm goes off you have to disable the alarm to start the car
Like I said. I'm ok as long as I don't lock it. But I would like to be able to lock my car. So as you can guess since I can't lock it. I removed any stereo equipment a long time ago. My car is all about driving not listening to the radio. If I wanted to listen to the radio I would drive my wives Volvo.
In this whole forum someone has to have some usefull info???
08-19-03, 09:12 PM
#4
The Power of 1.3
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Why not do the same thing suggested with the hood, but try it with doors?
The little push-in connectors that turn on and off the dome light when the door is open are easily accesible, just take one out (little rubber cover, and 1 screw) and somehow permanently connect the two metal pieces that make contact when the door is open. Maybe solder a small piece of wire between them? This should make the alarm think the door is open all the time, so it won't arm.
I know you're probably thinking that you already tried it with the hood, but what I'm thinking is that disconnecting the hood thing made it think it was closed all the time, not open?
The little push-in connectors that turn on and off the dome light when the door is open are easily accesible, just take one out (little rubber cover, and 1 screw) and somehow permanently connect the two metal pieces that make contact when the door is open. Maybe solder a small piece of wire between them? This should make the alarm think the door is open all the time, so it won't arm.
I know you're probably thinking that you already tried it with the hood, but what I'm thinking is that disconnecting the hood thing made it think it was closed all the time, not open?
08-19-03, 09:18 PM
#5
Ok, sounds plausable.
I liked the original idea so I'll give that a go aswell.
I only posted again thinking that there is a simple answer. Such as removing a certain ground or taking out a fuse etc...
I'll try your idea this week.
Thanks
I liked the original idea so I'll give that a go aswell.
I only posted again thinking that there is a simple answer. Such as removing a certain ground or taking out a fuse etc...
I'll try your idea this week.
Thanks
08-19-03, 10:07 PM
#7
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When i unlock the driver side with the key, my alarm goes off. I then go over to passenger side and unlock the passenger side and that disables the alarm for me. This only happens every now and then. Very annoying!
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08-19-03, 11:41 PM
#8
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I have some alarm anomalies that sound related, although not as bad as this (although it did drain my battery once). Basically, it just goes off for no reason...a LOT. I can turn it off OK thank God. But the established procedures for locking the car without arming the system do NOT work for me. If I open the door before shutting the car off, the alarm arms like always. If I pop the hatch before shutting off the car, I get no beep or blinking alarm light, however it will later go off anyway, just to spite me.
jds
jds
09-13-03, 08:00 PM
#9
Was there ever a fix for this? It is driving me crazy right now as well. Kind of embarrasing when the alarm goes off for 30 seconds when you are unlocking your OWN car with KEYS made for it????
Here's what I just found by searching maybe I'd try it if I had any tools
Here's what I just found by searching maybe I'd try it if I had any tools
Originally posted by spooledUP7
If you are talking about the stock alarm system failing on its own without an aftermarket alarm, then here's what you do.
Pull the plastic panel off the back side of the drivers, and passenger door handles. Un bolt the door handle assembly.
There is a small white switch that when new snaps over the tumbler drum. You will need to snap them back on making sure to align the tumbler notch. Use a zip tie to keep it on or a dab of hot glue.
I hope this helps.
If you are talking about the stock alarm system failing on its own without an aftermarket alarm, then here's what you do.
Pull the plastic panel off the back side of the drivers, and passenger door handles. Un bolt the door handle assembly.
There is a small white switch that when new snaps over the tumbler drum. You will need to snap them back on making sure to align the tumbler notch. Use a zip tie to keep it on or a dab of hot glue.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Snook; 09-13-03 at 08:03 PM.
09-14-03, 12:42 AM
#10
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I hope potential car thieves aren't reading this thread. I've been studying the whole damn electrical system while installing an aftermarket pager alarm. BTW, it's a major PITA 
. Here's what I can tell ya:
Each door has a door key cylinder switch that is normally open and grounds when you put a key in and rotate the cylinder towards unlock. It actually seems to activate before the cylinder has fully traveled toward unlock.
Each door has a doorlock "link" switch. Its state is related to whether the door is locked or unlocked. It's switched to ground, but I'm not sure whether ground means locked or vice-versa.
If the cpu sees the key cylinder switch ground within a short timeframe of seeing the link switch change to the unlocked state, the system disarms. If the system is armed and the link switch transitions to the unlocked state and the cylinder switch was NOT grounded, the system waits a second and procedes to **** off your neighbors.
That is to say, you *could* disconnect or ground (you'll have to figure out which) your link switches to keep them from arming the system in the first place. But you'll give up having the passenger lock solenoid side "follow" the drivers side.
My diagram for my '95 says the doorlock relay reads this swich without requiring any intervention by the alarm CPU. So I suppose you could cut the wires near the alarm CPU and retain the stock doorlock functionality. The wire colors I see are G/B (green/black) for the passenger side and G/R (green/red) for the drivers side.
Cut at your own risk. If this happened to me, I'd fix the source of the problem... but then again I have an EE degree. Many are just happy to kill the damn thing altogether.
-IG
. Here's what I can tell ya:Each door has a door key cylinder switch that is normally open and grounds when you put a key in and rotate the cylinder towards unlock. It actually seems to activate before the cylinder has fully traveled toward unlock.
Each door has a doorlock "link" switch. Its state is related to whether the door is locked or unlocked. It's switched to ground, but I'm not sure whether ground means locked or vice-versa.
If the cpu sees the key cylinder switch ground within a short timeframe of seeing the link switch change to the unlocked state, the system disarms. If the system is armed and the link switch transitions to the unlocked state and the cylinder switch was NOT grounded, the system waits a second and procedes to **** off your neighbors.
That is to say, you *could* disconnect or ground (you'll have to figure out which) your link switches to keep them from arming the system in the first place. But you'll give up having the passenger lock solenoid side "follow" the drivers side.
My diagram for my '95 says the doorlock relay reads this swich without requiring any intervention by the alarm CPU. So I suppose you could cut the wires near the alarm CPU and retain the stock doorlock functionality. The wire colors I see are G/B (green/black) for the passenger side and G/R (green/red) for the drivers side.
Cut at your own risk. If this happened to me, I'd fix the source of the problem... but then again I have an EE degree. Many are just happy to kill the damn thing altogether.
-IG
Last edited by InsaneGideon; 09-14-03 at 12:47 AM.
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