No its not the normal question you guys hear all the time, this is different.

The connector that plugs into my airpump is falling apart, almost to the part where you can see the thin copper wires fully. Like its about to come out of the plastic connector.

Secondly, the plastic thing that i guess "holds" or "snaps" the other connector together, it chipped off so now it wont hold the other piece together, you have to hold it or tape it together.

So now im screwed cause the airpump is not working, even if i force the connectors together, its not making any contact.



My question is, can i cut the connectors off on BOTH sides, get some male/female connectors from autozone and remake my "joint"??

 

i dont see why you couldnt ....atleast you'll have the connection back...i'd get the insulated (covered) ones...

 

Thanks for the quick reply.

So basically i have to get 2 males and 2 females since there are 2 wires going into each side of the connectors.

Should there be anything i have to worry about? I know how to do wiring, its just that it will prob look ugly but i dont care about that, i need my damn airpump working already.

 

I don't see why that wouldn't work. Also, since there were exposed sections of the wires, check the AC fuse, because it might have touched nearby metal and shorted the fuse.

 

shouldnt look that bad....i'd also solder them to the new connectors, but it should be fine if you dont....

 

It should work just fine. Your just duplicating the factory connection. Just use some quality connectors. Since it's exposed to alot of heat, for $5 you could get a roll of fusion (silcone) tape and wrap everything to protect it. Probably make it look nicer too.

 

Phew, thanks for all the help guys.

As for blowing the AC fuse, thats a really good point, im gonna check that first.

A blown AC fuse will cause the airpump not to work, they are dependent on one another?

 

The two work together, if the fuse blows, they both stop working.

 

Ok gonna go get the parts now.

I just noticed something, what size gauge connectors do i get?

22-18 or 16-14??

 

My air pump wiring has been reworked just as described with male/female connectors (16-14 I think).

Something I've wanting to know is, is the pump supposed to engage as soon as you turn the key. I figured there would be a delay allowing the car start before adding the extra load.

Anybody?

 

pull that useless peice of **** out and just throw it away.

My car runs perfect without it. I actually have noticed an increase in throttle response under 3K RPM, the idle only hunts upon warm-up and seems to last just a little longer than usual. After about 5 mins of driving the idle returns to normal and runs great its only jumpy during warm-up because the car cannot properly read the airflow and correct the mixture without the flow of the airpump during warmup.

So far everything I have been warned about removing the airpump is horseshit

good luck

o, belt is NOT hard to find. just purchase a 33 inch belt

 

If you have the stock cat, you need it.

I have the stock cat and stock ecu so i want my airpump to work.

And the wires do look a bit skinny, gonna try the 22-18 connectors and see if they work.

 

Your on the right track. Its fine - I ran into that problem as well. When I bought someone elses Airpump to replace my broken one I noticed his part of the clip was cracked.

If anything..... for safety... I think its called 'liquid wire'?... can be found at a local marina... maybe want to look into that, to prevent an electrical fire....Just a way to clean up your work - I know its used on boats.

 

what would happen if your pump dies without removing the stock cat? Being in Florida, I'm not concerned with emissions. Is it something that really needs to be replaced?

 

Stock cat with a non working airpump could lead to bad emissions, crappy idle, mis-readings in the o2 sensor (which could result in a CEL), and could clog the cat.

Id say an airpump is necessary.

 

airpump only works under 3k rpms...how much fuel is actually being dumped into the exhaust to clog the cats under 3k rpms its common sense...throw it out u'll be glad, car runs NO richer w/o..but in the end its ur car do what you want im just saying throw the peice of **** away u will NOT clog your cat

 

/\ I wouldn't say there are no effects. Many FD owners (including myself) notice a very rough idle with the elimination of the airpump. However, it can be avoided with the addition of a PFC.

 

I guess all cars are different. I am running a manual swapped Auto FD and I took out the air pump with no side effects at all. I still have the stock Catalytic converter. I have had it eliminated for over 7 months with no problems with the stock Catalytic converter.

I have noticed I can out run stock manual FD's with my stock converted FD with the Auto ECU. I think the Auto ECU might have a more aggressive timing on it. I'm not sure. Either that or it is my light weight flywheel 9.0lb'er, ACT-Prolite.

 

Every car seems to be different. It sounds like Monsterbox was one of the luckier ones. But the general consensus from my searching was that it's risky with a stock cat. Less so with a Hi-Flo. And since symtoms seem to vary alot, it's probably pretty easy to find out how your car will perform without the AP by just unplugging it.
If everything seems fine, the only other concerns are emissions (if you have them) and belt contact with the waterpump....not the availability of the belt.

 

buy weatherpack connectors

 

Well thats when im having problems, under 3k.

The car bogs when coming out of a complete stop. My CEL is on. Since my airpump is not running, im assuming its giving false readings to the o2, making the cel light come on, making the car run like crap.

Idk, im changing my cat anyway since my car has 70k miles, its due. And im gonna hardwire this airpump. I hope that helps it a bit.

 

Anybody, is the pump supposed to engage as soon as you turn the key. I figured there would be a delay allowing the car start before adding the extra load. I can clearly hear the magnetic clutch engage before the car starts.

 

I'm guessing, but it probably engages right away. I think the load caused by the airpump would be VERY minimal.

 

No i dont think its supposed to start spinning with just the key to on without the engine running.

I think when the engine has started, the airpump will run up to 3k, then turn off any rpm after that.

 

He's asking whether or not the magnetic clutch will engage while starting the motor. Yes it will. It's the little click you hear when turn the key. However, like Sgtblue said, the strain associated with the turning of the airpump will be minimal at most.