Air temp sensor and AFR
02-05-07, 02:46 PM
#26
Sorry if i have missed this but i only quickly read the thread.
Correct me if im wrong ppl.
If you need to drive your car safely whilst learning how to corect your AFR's then i think there is a very quick way, Just increase your pim settings on the Controler.
Ie. you need more fule from 5k upwards just goto pim settings as increase the 100% setting next to 5k to above 100%, i did this to drive around for a few weeks when i fund out i was lean at 10psi and 5k.
It takes about 30 seconds to do on the FC Commander.
Like i say, feel free to correct me if im wrong.
Correct me if im wrong ppl.
If you need to drive your car safely whilst learning how to corect your AFR's then i think there is a very quick way, Just increase your pim settings on the Controler.
Ie. you need more fule from 5k upwards just goto pim settings as increase the 100% setting next to 5k to above 100%, i did this to drive around for a few weeks when i fund out i was lean at 10psi and 5k.
It takes about 30 seconds to do on the FC Commander.
Like i say, feel free to correct me if im wrong.
02-05-07, 02:47 PM
#27
Originally Posted by TheWoganSleeve
so the ideal mixture is 14.57 parts air to one part petrol across the whole rev range??? looks like ill be getting a 'proffesional' to do it
You need to be around 11.5 if your reffering to an global setting for the whole of the rev range.
Thats very vague.
At 14 afr whilst boosting you will pop your motor for sure.
Even at 11.5 you have the chance of carbon buildup whilst not in boost and running lean when above 9psi or there abouts, either way its eventually lead to a poped motor again.
02-05-07, 04:32 PM
#28
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Chuck (cewrx7r1) has only posted ideal AFRs about 100 times...as well as others. Do a search in the single turbo and pfc forums. The AFR should vary by boost pressure, NOT rpm!!! Usually, AFRs will taper from ~13 at idle to 13-15 under vacuum going to 13 at 0 vacuum and down to 11 or 11.5 under 10+ psi.
02-05-07, 07:58 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by Veger
Errr no i dont think so
You need to be around 11.5 if your reffering to an global setting for the whole of the rev range.
Thats very vague.
At 14 afr whilst boosting you will pop your motor for sure.
Even at 11.5 you have the chance of carbon buildup whilst not in boost and running lean when above 9psi or there abouts, either way its eventually lead to a poped motor again.
You need to be around 11.5 if your reffering to an global setting for the whole of the rev range.
Thats very vague.
At 14 afr whilst boosting you will pop your motor for sure.
Even at 11.5 you have the chance of carbon buildup whilst not in boost and running lean when above 9psi or there abouts, either way its eventually lead to a poped motor again.
fer sure, but that 14.57 was just an example, under boost you should never be that lean, but it is ideal for idle.
02-05-07, 08:01 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by TheWoganSleeve
so the ideal mixture is 14.57 parts air to one part petrol across the whole rev range??? looks like ill be getting a 'proffesional' to do it
02-06-07, 12:54 PM
#31
Like i say i was being vague.
at idle 11.5 isnt gonna pop your engine but it will probably build up carbon deposits over time, so for a short period till he gets a tune its ok.
at 10psi 11.5 isnt going to lean the engine so its not going to pop so till he gets a tune its safeish.
so as i said in my previous post 11.5 over the full map is safeish.
The above are all words from a highly respected vet/ tuner on here.
And no it wasnt chuck :P
at idle 11.5 isnt gonna pop your engine but it will probably build up carbon deposits over time, so for a short period till he gets a tune its ok.
at 10psi 11.5 isnt going to lean the engine so its not going to pop so till he gets a tune its safeish.
so as i said in my previous post 11.5 over the full map is safeish.
The above are all words from a highly respected vet/ tuner on here.
And no it wasnt chuck :P
02-06-07, 01:56 PM
#32
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14.7 is NOT ideal for idle! Most FDs would be lucky to even be able to hold a steady idle of any kind at that AFR. People who don't know better should really not post BS!
02-13-07, 11:32 AM
#33
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cool, right so according to teh link my max flywheel hp is 290 or something, i am on stock fuelling, would an uprated pump help on this one?
Will any filter do, where can i get one?
does anyone have a link where i can buy an Air Temp Sensor?
Fuel pump, will i need one>? a better one?
I was under the impression uprated fuel systems where only needed for the big singles over 400 fhp,,,
thanks again, the cars off the road while i sort ice side skirts alloys new rear wing, respray , interior, give me a few months, should be a cracker
Will any filter do, where can i get one?
does anyone have a link where i can buy an Air Temp Sensor?
Fuel pump, will i need one>? a better one?
I was under the impression uprated fuel systems where only needed for the big singles over 400 fhp,,,
thanks again, the cars off the road while i sort ice side skirts alloys new rear wing, respray , interior, give me a few months, should be a cracker
02-13-07, 12:32 PM
#34
Originally Posted by TheWoganSleeve
cool, right so according to teh link my max flywheel hp is 290 or something, i am on stock fuelling, would an uprated pump help on this one?
Will any filter do, where can i get one?
does anyone have a link where i can buy an Air Temp Sensor?
Fuel pump, will i need one>? a better one?
I was under the impression uprated fuel systems where only needed for the big singles over 400 fhp,,,
thanks again, the cars off the road while i sort ice side skirts alloys new rear wing, respray , interior, give me a few months, should be a cracker
Will any filter do, where can i get one?
does anyone have a link where i can buy an Air Temp Sensor?
Fuel pump, will i need one>? a better one?
I was under the impression uprated fuel systems where only needed for the big singles over 400 fhp,,,
thanks again, the cars off the road while i sort ice side skirts alloys new rear wing, respray , interior, give me a few months, should be a cracker
1. For some reason, your current pump is not able to support your current needs
2. The pump you pick is too strong for the stock Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and overruns it
Other than those two error situations, an upgraded fuel pump will only provide what the FPR allows.
Now, IMO, any calulator that says the max rwhp on the stock fuel system is 290 rwhp is a conservative POS. You might want to read through this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/what-situation-do-you-have-259912/
02-13-07, 02:48 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by rynberg
14.7 is NOT ideal for idle! Most FDs would be lucky to even be able to hold a steady idle of any kind at that AFR. People who don't know better should really not post BS!
how is 14.57 bad for idle? please elaborate...
02-13-07, 03:09 PM
#36
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Most people get a steady idle between 13 and 14, but obviously every car is different. Maybe the fact that you are using a 13B-RE is the difference? The stoichiometric AFR of 14.7 is ideal, not real world, rarely is it the best AFR to shoot for. But I was more responding to the earlier posts about that ratio than yours.... 
02-13-07, 03:40 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Most people get a steady idle between 13 and 14, but obviously every car is different. Maybe the fact that you are using a 13B-RE is the difference? The stoichiometric AFR of 14.7 is ideal, not real world, rarely is it the best AFR to shoot for. But I was more responding to the earlier posts about that ratio than yours....
I agree, 14.57 is stoichmetric, but not ideal for most applications. I only use it for idle because I had to pass smog
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