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Air pump woes

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Old 04-29-06, 02:08 PM
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Air pump woes

God damn it! Just been doing some work on the car. My air pump isnt working, and the ecu side of the loom connector is reading 14v at idle so i figured my air pump had failed.

So i switch it out for another one from another car. The other cars a non runner, so i dont know if the air pump worked but ive no reason to believe it didnt.

So then i fire it all up; air pump still don't work. Still getting 14v at the connector. So i decide to check for fault codes - and i dont seem to have an engine check light?

Where is it, because i took my dash out and all my bulbs are present and working, but i get no diff in lights with ignition on and engine off with the TEN bridged to the GND on the diagnosis connector.

So i cant read for faults, because i cant find the light. I figured last resort look in the FSM, and it says about testing continuity across the air pump terminals. So i do this on both and get nada...zip. Doesnt seem to be a connection between one pole and the other.

I cant believe this! Two faulty air pumps? is this what it sounds like to you guys? because im no auto electrician, but it seems like both pumps are dead?

Can anyone do me a test and see if they get continuity across their air pump please?

I hate this car lol, cant afford to buy a new air pump either so i was relying on being able to use the one off my other car...
Old 04-29-06, 03:52 PM
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The air pump is activated by the air pump relay. The fuse for the AC system is the fuse for that circuit - it's pretty common to blow that fuse, as many times the wiring to the air pump gets brittle, the insulation breaks off, and it shorts out.

On one wire, you should always have voltage, and the other should be switched to ground by the ECU when the air pump should kick on.

The air pump itself is very basic, electronically. It has a magnetic clutch - give it 12v and ground, and it will engage. Airpumps that have gone bad typically have bearing problems, where it will make noise while operating or lock up.

OK, I just dug out the shop manual for ya . The air pump is supplied 12v from the 15a air conditioner fuse that's under the hood. The other wire goes to the air pump relay, which is in the relay box at the nose of the car under the stock intake duct. The ECU switches this relay on and off, which grounds out the airpump to engage it. Those relays get a lot of abuse - some people mount them weird with front mount intercoolers, and they collect water and the terminals rust/short out.

Dale
Old 04-29-06, 03:53 PM
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BTW, page B1-A in the electrical diagram of the shop manual has all you need to know about the circuit.

Dale
Old 04-29-06, 07:27 PM
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Thanks bud!

any idea about the engine check light for reading fault codes? Where is it, because i got no extra lights than normal with the TEN and GND bridged on the diagnosis connector and the ignition on (but car not running) I thought maybe the light had blown so i took my dash out and all my bulbs are present and working, but i get no diff in lights with ignition on and engine off with the TEN bridged to the GND on the diagnosis connector.

Where is the engine check light on the dash so i can be sure im looking in right place?
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