Air Pump, Pumps backwards? Doesn't engage clutch when running at any RPM.
08-27-10, 01:07 AM
#1
Air Pump, Pumps backwards? Doesn't engage clutch when running at any RPM.
Well I've done some searching to no avail. My air pump won't trigger while the car is running.
I have done these so far.
- Checked continuity from the PCM to the air pump relay- ok
- Unplugged the air pump and check continuity on the pump connector- 5.0 ohms
- When the key is turned to the on position the clutch clicks on and off, start the car does not engage again. It did try once or twice to engage and the car ran like **** when it did.
So I unplug the air pump and start the car. Apply power to the magnetic clutch to make the air pump run and it's pumping air out of what is supposed to be the inlet pipe. I'm guessing the PCM decided not to trigger the air pump again since it was sucking air from the ACV.
The only thing I can think of is someone had this air pump apart and some how put it back together backwards? I did just buy it from a forum member.
If I can get it to pump the right way, I still need to know what I can do if it won't trigger while the car is running. I know it is supposed to run below 3200rpm's and cut out after that. I also know that if the heat hazard sensor comes on it will shut the air pump off as well. I had considered this but the heat hazard sensor light is off so I'm guessing that's not it.
Any help would be much appreciated
I have done these so far.
- Checked continuity from the PCM to the air pump relay- ok
- Unplugged the air pump and check continuity on the pump connector- 5.0 ohms
- When the key is turned to the on position the clutch clicks on and off, start the car does not engage again. It did try once or twice to engage and the car ran like **** when it did.
So I unplug the air pump and start the car. Apply power to the magnetic clutch to make the air pump run and it's pumping air out of what is supposed to be the inlet pipe. I'm guessing the PCM decided not to trigger the air pump again since it was sucking air from the ACV.
The only thing I can think of is someone had this air pump apart and some how put it back together backwards? I did just buy it from a forum member.
If I can get it to pump the right way, I still need to know what I can do if it won't trigger while the car is running. I know it is supposed to run below 3200rpm's and cut out after that. I also know that if the heat hazard sensor comes on it will shut the air pump off as well. I had considered this but the heat hazard sensor light is off so I'm guessing that's not it.
Any help would be much appreciated
08-27-10, 05:45 PM
#6
Racecar - Formula 2000
I'm guessing that it is not pumping backwards, but it is being driven backwards (you say it will not engage, so it's freewheeling) from air pressure out of the cat or other source.
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08-27-10, 05:51 PM
#8
Racecar - Formula 2000
Then my 2nd guess is that the pump is worn out or the vanes are stuck and air is flowing backwards despite the pump spinning correctly. IMO, there is no way to assemble a vane pump backwards.
08-27-10, 07:05 PM
#10
Pretty sure my TPS is dead and this is causing the car to not trigger the air pump.
I warmed the car up to operating temp, bout 10 minutes of running.
Voltage on the G/R wire was .50 at rest (slightly out of spec)
Voltage on the B/G wire was 4.5 at rest (way out of spec)
Move the throttle and no change in Voltage. So unless I'm doing something wrong I think I'll be needing a new TPS.
Also this makes sense to me because when I warm up the car, if I gave it gas it hesitates for a split second and then revs up. Typical since the car doesn't know when you are pushing on the gas pedal.
You would think the TPS malfunctioning would set a check engine light?
I warmed the car up to operating temp, bout 10 minutes of running.
Voltage on the G/R wire was .50 at rest (slightly out of spec)
Voltage on the B/G wire was 4.5 at rest (way out of spec)
Move the throttle and no change in Voltage. So unless I'm doing something wrong I think I'll be needing a new TPS.
Also this makes sense to me because when I warm up the car, if I gave it gas it hesitates for a split second and then revs up. Typical since the car doesn't know when you are pushing on the gas pedal.
You would think the TPS malfunctioning would set a check engine light?
08-27-10, 07:30 PM
#11
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yes it would. Check out http://robrobinette.com/tps_adj.htm before you replace the TPS... its ~$150 from Ray IIRC. You may want to pull codes first, 12 and 18 are for the TPS. Also if it were the TPS odds are high it would cause a goofy idle, hunting, surging, and a lot of backfiring. In any case, best of luck.
08-27-10, 07:42 PM
#12
It pretty much does all of that with the idle. The reason I know what the voltages are is because I was planning to adjust it. If the voltages do not change there is absolutely no point in adjusting it.
However I have no check engine light, unless it is conveniently unplugged.
However I have no check engine light, unless it is conveniently unplugged.
08-27-10, 10:59 PM
#14
It's pretty easy to install the TPS incorrectly... not very easy to describe how the little plastic feet on the sensor need to line up with the metal tab that rotates when you move the throttle.
This thread might have some more info.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/tps-adjustment-check-engine-light-help-777317/
This thread might have some more info.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/tps-adjustment-check-engine-light-help-777317/
08-27-10, 11:29 PM
#15
For the record I just got this car and the TPS was NOT installed by me previously.
But this time I got it installed and adjusted properly. Which is good news because now my air pump kicks on when it is supposed to. YAY!
But it sounds like a f!@#$!@$#! Harley. It does suck but it appears that after every suction there is a back pressure that blows back out the inlet.
I will be posting a Video momentarily.
But this time I got it installed and adjusted properly. Which is good news because now my air pump kicks on when it is supposed to. YAY!
But it sounds like a f!@#$!@$#! Harley. It does suck but it appears that after every suction there is a back pressure that blows back out the inlet.
I will be posting a Video momentarily.
08-29-10, 04:49 PM
#17
Took off the outlet pipe of the air pump and ran the car. Much quieter suction on the front pressure on the back side. I then proceeded to place my thumb over the outlet, and the pump got louder the more of the outlet I plugged up. Basically once there started getting "back pressure" it got louder and the pressure starts to push back out the inlet pipe. So now I'm thinking this may have something to do with the ACV. *sigh* I really hate taking off the UIM.
08-29-10, 05:06 PM
#20
it's not too bad if you have some small clamps to pinch off the coolant hoses to the throttle body. i hear ya though, the connections behind the UIM are a bastard and always cut up my hands.. just be sure to look everything over thoroughly before putting it back together, pull off the pipes from the ACV to smog pump and be sure no crap is in the tubes, etc. some of the **** on that car came from god knows where and has who knows what inside it. i think about 5 FDs donated parts to that car.
08-29-10, 05:09 PM
#22
My guess is since the split air pipe was completely missing that whoever owned it before and removed the emissions stuff somehow disabled the ACV, if that's possible. Even though I'm pretty sure all the connectors to it are plugged in.
08-29-10, 05:15 PM
#23
most of that stuff was simply missing as the car came from an eastern state with no emissions laws so some of it was pieced back together yet failing to install the rest of the smog components, i don't recall anything modified to be blocked but it's been so long i can't remember everything associated with it, i'm sure anything will surface by removing the ACV and blowing compressed air into the various ports.