JhnRx7

iTrader: (12)

Compared to the stock radiator how much do aftermarkst radiators help? What are the temp differences?

I know that you should upgrade to an aluminium radiator because the stock plastic end tanks tend to fail, but the previous owner of my car put in a brand new stock radiator.

I just wanted to know if it would be worth it for me to spend $400 on an aluminium radiator.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

tough call!! Since it's BRAND new i would say spend 400 bucks on somethimg else. It is a great realiability mod for piece of mind. But you could get a DP, or CB,intake, or stash for that front mount you want so bad!WooHoo!! Do it later though if you plan on it lasting.

BATMAN

It's very worth it.

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

What price do you put on piece of mind?
Not only do you get additional capacity, it does cool better. More fluid IN the radiator means cooler temps.
Pesonally, it's a no brainer. I know it's alot of $ but it's well worth it. In fact, someone is selling a Koyo right now in the parts for sale, 3rd gen section. Now, quickly, GO!

Frank

jspecracer7

Nothing wrong with the stock radiator except for the plastic end tanks. I saw no temp difference except for the aluminum radiator cooled down faster, but it may have been attributed to the aftermarket hood I put in at the same time.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

OEM rx7 radiator lasts around 70K. Keep track of mileage.

BATMAN

my stock radiator cost me an engine when it burst on the freeway and I dind't know until it hit "H" which should be a buy engine light.................

KevinK2

new oem rad should be fine for many years, unless u do road course track events.

oem temp control needs help .. search on "fan switch mod", miata, and parking lights.

bureau_c

Just because you upgrade to an all-Al radiator doesn't mean it won't fail. My first post-stock replacement, a Mazdacomp, failed in far less time than the stock radiator. My PWR that I got afterwards is fine so far. We'll see.

Personally, if its a new stock radiator as you say, I wouldn't be in such a huge hurry to upgrade it. If you're having cooling problems with street driving and the stock radiator, then you have other issues.

That said, I would never buy ANOTHER stock radiator...spend the extra money when you do get a new one on a better product. But, like I said...no big hurry.

jds

Street King

Gerneral consensus says to stick with the stock radiator if you are purely street driven. You aren't going to cool anymore than what your thermostat allows you to. Alum rad. will of course hold temps from getting to high better than a stock one but if the stock one is new and you don't have any heating problems, spend the money else where. Keep track of mileage and when it's time then buy the alum radiator. I'am in your situation right now. I have a 2k mile new radiator in the car, just adding up the mileage until I think it's time for a Koyo/Fluidyne.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Your temperatures won't change a lot with an aftermarket radiator. An aftermarket radiator has more capacity, so your engine will take longer to heat up, and will cool more quickly. You may see a couple of degrees difference on the freeway, but nothing significant.

Keep the stock radiator, only because it's new.
Get a temp gauge if you still have the stock one.
Do the fan mod. Here's a link:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fan_mod.html

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

First cooling system upgrade should be an aftermarket temp gauge. Since the radiator is new, your money would be better spent on other reliability upgrades such as the temp and boost gauge, new thermostat if not replaced recently, new radiator and coolant hoses, fuel filter, metal AST, etc. Make sure everything on the car is running perfect before going for more power.

Jack

BATMAN

I heard that he Mazda comp fails due to the epoxied parts.

Can someone verify this?

Ni5mo180SX

I've got the Koyo on mine which is about twice as thick as the stock unit but havent wired my temp gauge

JhnRx7

iTrader: (12)

So far i have had no cooling problems. But since i live in South Florida i have had the fans wired to alaways run when the car is on. I don not do any trak events (yet) and i have an aluminium AST.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

If you have a stock radiator, I wouldn't imagine them blowing apart all of a sudden. It's typically a small stress fracture that turns into a weeping leak, then finally blows open.

Just tune your nose to smell antifreeze - it's quite pungent, and even a tiny leak you can typically smell walking by the car. If you smell antifreeze, FIX IT NOW, don't wait.

I would definitely spend the money first on a good coolant temp gauge and do something about the AST - the AST definitely will fail with no warning .

Also, ALWAYS use the stock hose clamps on a plastic radiator. The spring clamps keep constant pressure on the hose with expansion and contraction, and are never too tight. Worm-drive type clamps can easily be overtightened, and when the plastic warms up and expands there's no where to go - stress fracture.

Dale

turbogarrett

iTrader: (1)

when i had my stock radiator and ast my stock temp guage would show ~ 1/3 past the "c" mark and creep to almost halfway after a full throttle run. after installing a koyo and pettit ast, the guage would rarely get past the "c" line which is about 85-90 according to the pfc commander. i wish i would have had the pfc or an accurate temp guage to show exact before and after temps, i think the difference would have been substantial. i say get the radiator and ast first.

Scrapiron7

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

If you use Evans NPG+ coolant it puts less stress and pressure on the cooling system and the radiator. In theory prolonging the life of the stock radiator.

GP1200R

my stock radiator cost me an engine when it burst on the freeway and I dind't know until it hit "H" which should be a buy engine light.................

classic batman

which engine was that? #3? ha

anyway, PWR is my recommendation....pricey, but very nice piece and install was cake....the stock radiator is an incredible POS

ZeroBanger

I didn't even read the other responses, but anyone that thinks a KOYO or FLUIDINE will lower your water temps is fooling themselves.

it will not break like the stock one Sometimes does.

GP1200R

"sometimes" is one too many times in an FD, where any overheating is likely to cost you $5k

there are so many crap stock parts on these cars it's really amazing....I guess that's the price you pay to go jap

every time I look at a 911 I'm amazed at the build quality

turbogarrett

iTrader: (1)

what's the point of aluminum radiators then? better heat disapation, more surface area should mean cooler temps. why not just keep the stock intercooler then too, it's basically doing the same thing?

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

A "jap" car is leaps and bounds ahead of most cars when it comes to quality. Not all cars can remain virtually unchanged for 40 years. I suggest you ask the 1st or 2nd generation owners how many problems they have had on their 250,000 mile cars.

GP1200R

I love my FD, but I'm trying to think of something I haven't replaced or fixed on my car....maybe the steering wheel