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I know this subject was beat on a bit, but I don't believe it is a dead horse. Curious to all the others out there running 550/2200s on the oem fpr if any issues have surfaced. The 2200s are supposed to be at 43.5 psi and oem is what 37psi @ idle?
I do not see how this is a good thing.
Anyone running an aftermarket fpr with RP's fuel rail?
I am switching over to id1300s I think and will need an aftermarket fpr, but not sure which one will fit the rp fuel rail.. Do I need a new rail? I really don't want to spend the $$, but that FFE looks purdy!
It's like going single with a stock pump.... yes it will work but theres literally no point in doing that. The fpr can and should be remote mounted. There are no rail/regulator compatibility issues for this reason. Buy an aeromotive 1000 or any other fpr from aeromotive and be done with it.
It's like going single with a stock pump.... yes it will work but theres literally no point in doing that. The fpr can and should be remote mounted. There are no rail/regulator compatibility issues for this reason. Buy an aeromotive 1000 or any other fpr from aeromotive and be done with it.
Purdy!
I like your quick and blunt response.
I will check k out the aeromotives. I need to figure out where to mount it.
Most folks mount it on the front of the UIM, it can also be mounted on the firewall. I've had it in both locations and either works fine.
lots of folks like aeromotive, turbosmart also makes a quality product.
The base FP difference amounts to a sliding scale, higher pressure is more injector flow and higher strain on the pump. Lower base FP is slightly lower injector flow, but also less pump strain. Running your 2000cc injectors at 37psi base, as opposed to 43psi base won't hurt anything and they should still be able to outflow your fueling needs at max boost/rpm unless your running power levels that *should* get a full system upgrade.
Thanks. I have a couple guys "pros" disagreeing with said statement. They say I am in danger with said setup.
I do believe my setup is capable or pushing a bit more than I had originally planned. I am still having leaning after heat soak in high boost/high rpm so I am trying to go back through EVERYTHING and make sure it is done right. Probably looking at around 380 to the wheels.
Thanks. I have a couple guys "pros" disagreeing with said statement. They say I am in danger with said setup.
I do believe my setup is capable or pushing a bit more than I had originally planned. I am still having leaning after heat soak in high boost/high rpm so I am trying to go back through EVERYTHING and make sure it is done right. Probably looking at around 380 to the wheels.
I'd be pretty cautious pushing that power level through an otherwise stock system. Way back in the day (2007-2008ish) I went 750cc all around and bumped the base pressure up as a temporary bandaid. I want to say 13-15psi was about the limit for the stock stuff. I'd definitely recommend upgrading your pump and FPR for your goals. They are FAR cheaper than a blown motor...
I'd be pretty cautious pushing that power level through an otherwise stock system. Way back in the day (2007-2008ish) I went 750cc all around and bumped the base pressure up as a temporary bandaid. I want to say 13-15psi was about the limit for the stock stuff. I'd definitely recommend upgrading your pump and FPR for your goals. They are FAR cheaper than a blown motor...
Ah, right on! I wasn't sure if you'd upgraded your pump yet. Disregard me
Also, if you are thinking about buying new rails then I'd consider the CJ Motorsports rails, they have the option to add a FPD to the secondary rail which could help smooth out oscillation from the injectors that could help make tuning better. I actually replaced my FFE rails with them. The old FPD's were dangerous because they were old and got leaky, not because they were inherently problematic.
Thanks I will check them out. I like the idea of running one on the secondary only, but that might be too complicated for me. I know the 550s can handle the extra few psi, but I will obviously have to retune all of it.
I've seen some setups with the FPR mounted on the front of the UIM and a big aftermarket turbo mounted very nearby, that seems like it would heat the fuel excessively. If you mount an FPR on the firewall, be sure to leave enough slack in the lines that it can handle engine movement. And some soft clamps to secure the lines in a way that avoids stressing the AN fittings.
Either way, I would add a fuel pressure sensor so it can be logged by the ECU. Fuel pressure problems are incredibly common, not just on rotaries.
The biggest issue in retaining the stock pressure reg is pressure sag across the flow range when working against a larger pump, you can end up with significantly higher base pressure/low fuel demand pressure with a large pump running flat out. If your ecu compensates for pressure or you are running variable pump speed or you are happy to have the pressure droop absorbed in the fuel map it really doesn't matter provided you still have the resolution to idle cleanly.
I am definitely not happy as I am still getting a slow almost predictable leaning condition after heat soaked. Like on the track at 4th gear WOT.
As stated before I am going over everything. I guess I am also in the mindset that if the injectors require 43.5 I should be at 43.5. I am not sure if the pressure drop remains the same or climbs exponentially as I was so stubborn or lazy and never installed my fp guage which is in the works now. I am using a PFC so there is no compensation.
Wanting to switch to the 1300s comes mostly from recommendations on the tuning forums and also I bought them used and just don't like that idea anymore. I had them flow checked and clean, but still.
Other than the issue I have at wot after awhile I am very pleased with my drivability and all other performance aspects..... well, once I get my primary turbo boosting over 8 again lol
I know this subject was beat on a bit, but I don't believe it is a dead horse. Curious to all the others out there running 550/2200s on the oem fpr if any issues have surfaced. The 2200s are supposed to be at 43.5 psi and oem is what 37psi @ idle?
I do not see how this is a good thing.
Anyone running an aftermarket fpr with RP's fuel rail?
I am switching over to id1300s I think and will need an aftermarket fpr, but not sure which one will fit the rp fuel rail.. Do I need a new rail? I really don't want to spend the $$, but that FFE looks purdy!
Originally Posted by Testrun
Thanks. I have a couple guys "pros" disagreeing with said statement. They say I am in danger with said setup.
I do believe my setup is capable or pushing a bit more than I had originally planned. I am still having leaning after heat soak in high boost/high rpm so I am trying to go back through EVERYTHING and make sure it is done right. Probably looking at around 380 to the wheels.
43.5 psi it’s just a standard used to compare injectors. Your lower pressure will drop it to around 2000 cc/minute.
Leaning out at high rpm might indicate a dirty fuel filter or pickup sock that is not flowing sufficiently.
I use the same system as yours, (supra pump and 550/2200s) and produced 540hp with a T04Z and 450 HP with a EFR 83/74 (At the Crank)
Barry
Last edited by Barry Bordes; 10-25-21 at 07:38 AM.
43.5 psi it’s just a standard used to compare injectors. Your lower pressure will drop it to around 2000 cc/minute.
Leaning out at high rpm might indicate a dirty fuel filter or pickup sock that is not flowing sufficiently.
I use the same system as yours, (supra pump and 550/2200s) and produced 540hp with a T04Z and 450 HP with a EFR 83/74 (At the Crank)
Barry
Thanks Barry for stopping in. You have the oem fpr? It is only doing it when things get hot. Brand new filter and sock...... clean tank.
Thanks Barry for stopping in. You have the oem fpr? It is only doing it when things get hot. Brand new filter and sock...... clean tank.
When what specific things get hot?
coolant temps?
oil temps?
aic temps?
what temps is hot?
how much leaner leaner in % terms or actual numbers is it getting when it gets hot?
There are correction tables for coolant and air intake temps in PFC and probably most standalones to help tune some of that.
This is probably a little far fetched, but do you have the oem FPR solenoid still hooked up? Having that activated and blocking the vacuum line will leave the fuel pressure at a static pressure when it needs to be at least a 1:1 rise with boost pressure. Might be a good idea to have a looksie if it's still there. You should have enough injector for your current power level. I would recommend having new top feed injectors for your primaries and having a reliable system overall.
Test run, if I understand correctly you were running the pump at 12 V all the time.
I still run mine through the resistor. So my pump is running at about 7 V most of the time.
I use a Bosch relay that is powered by the 1K computer output to give the full 12-14v to pump while in boost.
You may be overheating your fuel and your pump by running it at 12 V all the time.
I run a stock RE regulator and damper.
Last edited by Barry Bordes; 10-25-21 at 04:45 PM.
This is probably a little far fetched, but do you have the oem FPR solenoid still hooked up? Having that activated and blocking the vacuum line will leave the fuel pressure at a static pressure when it needs to be at least a 1:1 rise with boost pressure. Might be a good idea to have a looksie if it's still there. You should have enough injector for your current power level. I would recommend having new top feed injectors for your primaries and having a reliable system overall.
Not far fetched to me. The fuel pressure regulator solenoid has been bypassed. I am considering new primaries, but iT idles and cruises so nice right now.
Test run, if I understand correctly you were running the pump at 12 V all the time.
I still run mine through the resistor. So my pump is running at about 7 V most of the time.
I use a Bosch relay that is powered by the 1K computer output to give the full 12-14v to pump while in boost.
You may be overheating your fuel and your pump by running it at 12 V all the time.
I run a stock RE regulator and damper.
I was thinking about the pump over beating,, but last time at the track at 1/2 tank when this started I filled up the tank and immediately upon boosting again the afr started leaning.
Aren't there a ton of people running around with the pump running 12v all the time? Not saying I couldn't be the one to have the problem.
Barry are you guys running that car hard? Are most of the people running this car with this setup hard? Meaning on the track or similar conditions?
My catering is absolutely PERFECT in all conditions until it get hear soaked. Even then the water temp is ROCK solid as is the oil temp, but this happens. I am starting to think the drivers on the pfc are heating up.
Next step is fuel pressure guage before I even bring this up again.
Definitely a possibility. I have water injection with smallest aem nozzle with ceramic coatings and all, but how much does all that help in reality. I know the water does, but it could be getting a false reading or odd interpretation as the sensor is in stock location.
I will hopefully be able to get a better idea with the fuel pressure guage.
I never changed the oem fpr for new so it is original. Not sure if that could be the culprit, but I should see that on the fuel pressure.
When what specific things get hot?
coolant temps?
oil temps?
aic temps?
what temps is hot?
how much leaner leaner in % terms or actual numbers is it getting when it gets hot?
There are correction tables for coolant and air intake temps in PFC and probably most standalones to help tune some of that.
Sorry I never responded to this.
Not sure what is specifispecifically getting hot.. For example at the track my water temp never got over 90c, oil at 195 or less, iat was showing in the 50s or 40s I think , but remember I have water injection.
As for the leaning it will just start slowly climbing from high 10s/low 11s into the 12s with no indication it won't just keep going.. 11.4,11.6,11.7.12.0 etc. I then of cours whatever to get off the gas and let the big V8s pass me which is not cool lol.
10-24-21, 11:02 AM
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