Aftermarket guage question
11-01-02, 11:49 PM
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Aftermarket guage question
Well i was going to get the autometer cobalt guages...but then i realized...Hey! They are INSANE EXPENSIVE just for something that looks a little cooler but does the same thing. Plus i realized that it wouldnt match the entirior or my car. Anyway.....are there any guages out the that actually match the stock guages of an FD? Like the black background with red lettering/numbering at night? I'm going to be getting a boost guage very soon just to make sure i dont have any leaks and the like. Oh yea one more question....my tach is messed up and in the first post i ever made i mentioned that and some guy told me what to do to fix it...it was about the solder that mazda did was all crappy and stuff...well today i ripped the car apart and couldnt find anything in there...where exactly should i look? Sorry if this was listed elsewhere but i figured that tach is a guage and well...this thread is on my guage questions so i would toss it in there...one more too haha. How accurate is the stock tach?....Should i invest in an aftermarket one or is that one just fine. Thanks for your help guys/gals
Andrew
Andrew
11-02-02, 01:34 AM
#4
don't race, don't need to
Pettit column mount boost gauge lights up red and looks VERY stock. If you are going to race a bunch, not a good idea as you have to look down. If you are just using boost to pass and occaisonally ruin the day of a perfectly hairy knuckled Corvette owner, then column mount seems adequate.
I also did the temp gauge mod. At freeway speeds, the needle points at the cold normal mark, right where the thermostat is doing it's job. At slightly above halfway between the cold and hot, the fans come on low with the lights on (210F) and go off just above the cold normal (195F). IMHO, works GREAT, looks REAL stock.
Did you look at the backside of the instrument cluster? The silver shiny (solder, I know, DUH!) bits should cover the entire place where there isn't blue masking, and there should be no holes in the solder. Also check to see that each electrode pokes into the solder. The way the circuit board warps, there might not have been complete immersion of the electrodes during the flow solder process. This would lead to intermittant connection, especially over bumps. Just a thought...
Oil pressure FUBAR from inception. Perform the daily-check-the-dipstick mod for this.
I also did the temp gauge mod. At freeway speeds, the needle points at the cold normal mark, right where the thermostat is doing it's job. At slightly above halfway between the cold and hot, the fans come on low with the lights on (210F) and go off just above the cold normal (195F). IMHO, works GREAT, looks REAL stock.
Did you look at the backside of the instrument cluster? The silver shiny (solder, I know, DUH!) bits should cover the entire place where there isn't blue masking, and there should be no holes in the solder. Also check to see that each electrode pokes into the solder. The way the circuit board warps, there might not have been complete immersion of the electrodes during the flow solder process. This would lead to intermittant connection, especially over bumps. Just a thought...
Oil pressure FUBAR from inception. Perform the daily-check-the-dipstick mod for this.
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