Joe Koch

I don't have very many engine mods (just an underdrive pulley set, Apex'i cat-back, GReddy blow-off valve, and a GReddy turbo timer) but my clutch is slipping and I figure when something breaks, why not replace it with an aftermarket upgrade? I've heard from a friend the ACT is good, but any advice for a newb would be appreciated. Also, while I have you attention - any recommendations for a a short shifter kit? There seems to be a pretty wide spread of prices. And I know the FD already has a short throw, but the SS kit I had on my last car was still shorter and I kinda miss it.

zanthrax

I love my Spec clutch (stage 3), rated up to 500Nm, 6puck, very reasonably priced.
Grabs like hell but the pedal only got a tiny bit heavier.
According to Spec stage 1 is about equal to OEM and anything above stage 3 isn't very streetable.
Their clutches are rumored to not hold well with age when you don't respect the break-in period, I took it easy the first 300 miles and it still feels very solid even on the track.
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Mazda/RX-7/1994/Single

Railgun

Everything I've seen and read tells me that spec sucks. I've even seen one explode at US-41 last year and go right through the tranny shield.

I started with an ACT S/S (whatever they call that now) and had all good results with it. I'm using an Exedy twin carbon now, but that may be a little on the extreme side for your application.

As far as short shifter, I think I'm using the Gotham kit which works well. Though since they're gone...

7store has the B&M kit which looks the same.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

I have the B&M short shifter and will be going with the ACT clutch kit.

Go with the ZX3-HDSS or ZX3-HDMM for near stock performance. The MM is the closest to stock as far as disk is concerned.

spr258

iTrader: (3)

I have a Comrade C's short shifter and works great. I only used the stock one for a quick ride home so I dont know how it compares but i love the Comrade C's. I have a stock clutch on my car now. I have a single turbo and have over 400 hp to the wheels. The stock clutch doesnt slip and feels fine. I do have a light weight flywheel and ACT pressure plate though.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

'stock clutch' usually refers to the entire setup.

You have a 'stock clutch disc' with an upgraded pressure plate, big difference

spr258

iTrader: (3)

I know that is why i told him i have a different pressure plate. The shop had one laying around and we used it for cheap. But there is no reason that he should be buying a crazy clutch kit that is hard to drive on the street. Just letting him know my experience

rx7brandon

iTrader: (1)

I have an act 6 puck. is strong, but too aggresive for me. I have driven a couple of fast rx7's with a RPS clutch, and it still held the power, but was a lot less harsh engagement.I will not be doing another act 6 puck. looking into a twin disc set up for a more streetable setup. Unless you need to stay with a street disc.

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

I have a ACT 6 puck sprung with heavy pressure plate and 12lbs flywheel , it gets a little annoying in heavy traffic but its not made for traffic so i cant bitch.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

What he said....

later

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

what badddrx7 said

Joe Koch

What's the difference between the ZX3-HDG6 and ZX3-HDSS? The SS looks better for me but I'm just curious. Should I get a new flywheel as well?

Oh, and the B&M shifter isn't being manufactured any more. Any other suggestions?

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

I have the RB lightweight flywheel, CenterForce Spring and the now defunct Pineapple 6 pucks with spring center. This combination held the 311 rwhp but it's a bitch to live with. It's also worn out after only 27,000 miles.

I'm planning to put in the OEM flywheel and Bonez which is a ACT S/S spring with a Daikin plate.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

The G6 is a 6 puck disk with a sprung hub. If it was primarily an autocross car or you tracked it regularly, I would go this route... otherwise:

The SS is a full faced disk with a sprung hub. If you are daily driving, then you want the full faced disk. You won't need the 6 puck... at all. The full faced SS disk will be your best bet for your current power levels, daily driving ease of use, and the fact that you don't need to go super-overkill on the clutch for your power levels.

Get this part number:

ZX3-HDSS

And you won't have to worry about your clutch for a while.


As for short shifters, find one and go for it. I doubt there is much difference between them all. (I naturally avoid ebay still)

Flywheels:
The lighter the flywheel, the faster your engine will rev out, but slipping the clutch more is required for take-offs.

I was going to go with the pro-lite since I primarily autocross (But I ended up finding a good deal on a FEED version), however, the street-lite would be good for someone that doesn't necessarily participate in some sort of racing every month. Either way is good.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

Most people prefer the Mazdaspeed/C's/RE-Amemiya style shifters as opposed to the B&M or B&M knockoffs. They say that the B&M is a little too "notchy". I have an Amemiya one and it feels like the stock shifter, but a shorter throw.

When I replaced my clutch, I figured that I'm not pushing much more power than stock (MAYBE 300hp to the wheels), so why deal with a harsh or heavy engagement? I replaced it with another OEM Mazda one and have had no problems with it slipping at all.

Joe Koch

I think I'll go for the Mazdaspeed, but the only one I can find is $399. That seems a bit steep...

Red95FD

iTrader: (3)

I just got the ZX3-HDSS and I really like it. It is a little stiffer than stock but my car is a little stronger than stock, so it's perfect.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

Not MS, but these guys treated me well.
http://shop.jklre.com/products/fd-re-shifter