Adding a second oil cooler
#27
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That's the temp of oil going into the engine. What we really need to know is the oil temp the engine is operating at (oil pan). Most numbers on this forum are at the oil pedestal mount which will vary greatly on the size, ducting, and effectiveness of the coolers. None of which actually tells us how hot a given engine is running.
putting a sensor in the pan would give you that.
i think i've seen either sensors that replace the drain plug, or adaptors to do it, so it could be really easy to implement
#29
Rotorhead for life
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To that end, what range of delta-T oil temps would be considered "too low", "normal" or "too high" for a 13B REW? I suppose it will matter where the 2x oil temp sensors are installed to be meaningful.
#31
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I don't think anyone would actually monitor temps in such a clunky way. 2 data points is great for data logging and to measure how well the cooling system is performing and whether it needs adjustment. If you are driving and actually racing, you aren't going to be looking at a gauge, you are looking where you want to go. You'd just want a simple warning light to indicate whether you are getting too hot, if yes, then check a gauge to see where you are at.
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JhnRx7 (01-05-23)
#32
I prefer this routing; it requires less hose. Here are the brackets and fitting that you will need
Oil Cooler Parts (93+ RX-7) (banzai-racing.com)
Edit: I just noticed a typo, the 120 female flare should be a 90 off the front cover
Oil Cooler Parts (93+ RX-7) (banzai-racing.com)
Edit: I just noticed a typo, the 120 female flare should be a 90 off the front cover
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 01-05-23 at 08:15 AM.
#33
10ft vs 15ft... not a huge difference in hose usage and only 1 additional fitting in exchange for a lot less clutter in the engine bay.
We never really understood the reason with mounting the thermostat right off the front cover. It's a clunky and crowded area to have such a large component.
It can be mounted comfortably and safely on the bottom of the frame rail in front of the sway bar mount. It's much more serviceable, easier to install and MUCH cleaner of an install.
We never really understood the reason with mounting the thermostat right off the front cover. It's a clunky and crowded area to have such a large component.
It can be mounted comfortably and safely on the bottom of the frame rail in front of the sway bar mount. It's much more serviceable, easier to install and MUCH cleaner of an install.
#34
10ft vs 15ft... not a huge difference in hose usage and only 1 additional fitting in exchange for a lot less clutter in the engine bay.
We never really understood the reason with mounting the thermostat right off the front cover. It's a clunky and crowded area to have such a large component.
It can be mounted comfortably and safely on the bottom of the frame rail in front of the sway bar mount. It's much more serviceable, easier to install and MUCH cleaner of an install.
We never really understood the reason with mounting the thermostat right off the front cover. It's a clunky and crowded area to have such a large component.
It can be mounted comfortably and safely on the bottom of the frame rail in front of the sway bar mount. It's much more serviceable, easier to install and MUCH cleaner of an install.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 01-05-23 at 11:54 AM.
#36
i got a chance to talk to Jim Mederer at one of the Sevenstocks, and he kept mentioning Delta T, the oil going in to the engine needs to be cool enough to pull heat out.
putting a sensor in the pan would give you that.
i think i've seen either sensors that replace the drain plug, or adaptors to do it, so it could be really easy to implement
putting a sensor in the pan would give you that.
i think i've seen either sensors that replace the drain plug, or adaptors to do it, so it could be really easy to implement
I don't think anyone would actually monitor temps in such a clunky way. 2 data points is great for data logging and to measure how well the cooling system is performing and whether it needs adjustment. If you are driving and actually racing, you aren't going to be looking at a gauge, you are looking where you want to go. You'd just want a simple warning light to indicate whether you are getting too hot, if yes, then check a gauge to see where you are at.
Lets make up some numbers for a simple example:
-Let's say we don't want to run the oil higher a true 250*F (in the pan).
-Front simplicity's sake, let's say each oil cooler drops 15*F of temp.
Car A with 1 oil cooler is seeing oil pan temps of 250*F. Measuring at the pedestal, it's showing 235*F.
Car B has 2 oil coolers and is seeing oil pan temps of 250*F but only 220*F at the pedestal.
Maybe car B is being driven harder or has more power than Car A, but both of them have borderline high oil temps.
If Car A only measures at the pedestal and keeps driving hard until he sees 250*F at the pedestal, he's actually running at 265*F at the pan.
If Car B (with 2 coolers) does the same and keeps driving hard until he sees 250*F at the pedestal, he's actually at 280*F at the oil pan and probably already ran into issues or blew his engine.
There are variables in how well different oil coolers and ducts cool the oil. There are variables in how much heat a given engine transfers into the oil (more power, more friction, driven harder, etc...). All that matters is how hot or cold the oil is inside the engine, not how cool the oil is going into the engine.
An old link/reference:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/oil-temps-what-optimal-oil-temp-location-sender-1002711/
Last edited by Billj747; 01-05-23 at 02:32 PM.
#37
It Just Feels Right
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IMO (from experience) dual 19 row Setrabs are overkill until you need dual 19 row Setrabs (track duty or really really hot ambient temps). This begs for some sort of parallel arrangement with twin thermostats vice series.
And one ducted cooler is cheaper than two unducted coolers
And one ducted cooler is cheaper than two unducted coolers
Last edited by TomU; 01-05-23 at 01:55 PM.
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Testrun (07-31-23)
#38
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<MOD please remove if too far afield from subject>
Guess I have a simple project for my FLIR thermal camera next time I'm at operating temp. Oil pan and individual oil cooler thermal pics to follow...
Guess I have a simple project for my FLIR thermal camera next time I'm at operating temp. Oil pan and individual oil cooler thermal pics to follow...
Last edited by Carlos Iglesias; 01-05-23 at 06:05 PM.
#39
So on the link posted to another thread, an oil plug temp sensor was mentioned. Does anyone recommend a current oil plug temp sensor? I'd be interested in having a set up like this connected to my Haltech so that I can set up a warning if the coolers are not doing their job.
#40
So on the link posted to another thread, an oil plug temp sensor was mentioned. Does anyone recommend a current oil plug temp sensor? I'd be interested in having a set up like this connected to my Haltech so that I can set up a warning if the coolers are not doing their job.
https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-oi...drain-plug-m14
But it's better to pull the pan and weld in a proper bung.
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Neo (07-26-23)
#43
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
at this point I would think more like 90% of the FDs still on the road have been tracked at some point lol
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Neo (07-26-23)
#45
Racecar - Formula 2000
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Neo (07-26-23)
#46
I know it's been some time since I posted this but finally got around to installing the second Setrab oil cooler. The installation came out great including the oil temp thermostat housing.
So I went for a drive. Keep in mind that the ambient temperature today in TX was 104.
I pulled over and touched the oil coolers and they were scorching hot. Then I connected the laptop to the haltech and see that the oil temp was 190 after a drive but during the driving I see temps as low as 162. The cooler are doing their job. So my question is should it be that low with ambient temps over 100 and what would be a high temp which I should be concerned about.
Thanks
So I went for a drive. Keep in mind that the ambient temperature today in TX was 104.
I pulled over and touched the oil coolers and they were scorching hot. Then I connected the laptop to the haltech and see that the oil temp was 190 after a drive but during the driving I see temps as low as 162. The cooler are doing their job. So my question is should it be that low with ambient temps over 100 and what would be a high temp which I should be concerned about.
Thanks
#49
Built Not Bought
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Originally Posted by coolrotariesR1
So if it's a 185 thermostat, it closes below 185 e.g 162 then opens again at 185?
#50
The thermostat isn't entirely on/off. Describing it in a high and low bypass state would be a more accurate description of how it works. Oil is always flowing through the thermostat and into both coolers, the internal plunger simply allows MORE oil to flow through them as the temperature increases.
with THAT significant of a temperature drop your coolers may be oversized for street driving conditions. What is the amount of time it takes to drop to its coolest until it reaches its hottest? So the time of a "cycle". Even with that big of a drop, you're not hurting anything and it won't cause any issue.
Put something in front of the second cooler next time you drive to block the air flow and see how your temps respond.
Having the thermostat cycle is perfectly fine, it's just doing its job and with a drop in temps like that its definitely doing its job well.
with THAT significant of a temperature drop your coolers may be oversized for street driving conditions. What is the amount of time it takes to drop to its coolest until it reaches its hottest? So the time of a "cycle". Even with that big of a drop, you're not hurting anything and it won't cause any issue.
Put something in front of the second cooler next time you drive to block the air flow and see how your temps respond.
Having the thermostat cycle is perfectly fine, it's just doing its job and with a drop in temps like that its definitely doing its job well.