Acceleration Problem From Stop
08-27-10, 05:17 PM
#27
Just to be clear, you said when you get rolling in 1st gear everything goes back to normal. If in fact it is the clutch, it should also be slipping in 2nd, 3rd, etc when you floor it or try to suddenly pu speed. If when in 2nd gear and u floor it, and it doesn't slip then I don't think it's your clutch disk.
08-27-10, 05:17 PM
#28
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And, if the engine rear main oil seal is not leaking, I wouldn't change it. You might just cause a problem where one did not exist.
08-27-10, 05:29 PM
#30
Flywheel is either way, guess you could pull it off. Have it checked/resurfaced etc. Or you could upgrade while you are there. If you want to keep the stock one and it's in good condition you can do that too.
08-27-10, 05:30 PM
#31
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I usually have to go to about 4-5k RPMs to get it to move. Before this started happening, when I was in stop-in-go traffic, after about 5-10 min in traffic, I would get choking from the exhaust, and minor backfires after I let off the accelerator. Also, the engine has been running hotter than normal.
thoughts?
thoughts?
You also mention the car has been running hotter than mormal, it's backfiring and the exhaust gasses are choking you. Sounds like someting other than a clutch problem.
08-28-10, 02:05 AM
#33
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As for the symptoms, some people seems to be confused, so I'll try and reexplain is in more detail.
I can turn the car on with no problems. When I go to put it in first or reverse, it doesn't move. It progressively got worse, 1500 to 2500, 2500 to 3500 and now it takes almost 6500 to budge. I WAS able to shift to 2nd, 3rd and so on when I got it moving back when it was at 3500, 4500, but that just goes with it slipping, now that the clutch is toast, I doubt I would be able to do it even if I had a hill start in 2nd.
The overheating probably has to do with the high RPMs which is due to the clutch. While I'm sure the overheating is also just from it being an old rotary. So I'm sure as soon as I fix the clutch, then I'll fix any leaks, buy silicone hoses and a new intercooler, it will run just fine.
I'm in Okinawa, so it's a bit hard to get the parts I need with the language barrier, and everyone with the mindset of "It's an Rx7, I don't want to **** with it" but I managed to find someone who is selling an almost new clutch kit for $500, while I see cheaper deals online, think I should take it and just get her running?
08-28-10, 07:01 AM
#34
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I found another cheaper clutch in my area, but it looks like its missing the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. It looks like a stage 2 Exedy clutch. So will my t/o and pilot bearing on my current broke OEM clutch work on the new clutch?
Heres link to new clutch
http://www.okinawayardsales.com/item...538&src=SEARCH
Heres link to new clutch
http://www.okinawayardsales.com/item...538&src=SEARCH
08-28-10, 07:33 AM
#35
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nobody makes a replacement for the pull-out bearing that I know of, but I could be wrong. As far as a pilot bearing goes, you should always replace it and the seal when you replace your clutch, its cheap insurance.... like $20 shipped from a dealer.
08-28-10, 07:48 AM
#36
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So buy a pilot bearing an pilot bearing seal? But t/o bearing should be fine?
Also, someone said something about a seal for the main oil tank or something while I'm at it. Whats the real name for this seal and should I worry about it?
Also, in the previous post I made, the clutch I linked, everything look good on it or whatnot?
Also, someone said something about a seal for the main oil tank or something while I'm at it. Whats the real name for this seal and should I worry about it?
Also, in the previous post I made, the clutch I linked, everything look good on it or whatnot?
08-28-10, 10:30 AM
#37
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The link isn't working right now, but it sounds fine. Buy the pilot bearing and seal, the t/o bearing is probably fine, but its a bitch to get at so that one is up to you. The rear main seal is the seal that is between the e-shaft and the rear iron. Kinda hard to describe w/o a pic, or you seeing it, but if you have the flywheel off its the big *** rubber ring around the e-shaft. Its usually replaced when you rebuild, but replacing it now is "cheap" insurance so you know you have a new one there. Whether or not you need to do it depends if your leaking oil or not. If you have a lot of oil on the outside of the rear iron, change it and make sure you do it right, if everything is dry, there is no sense in fixing something that isn't broken. 94rx7tt seems to have the same attitude about that as I do about the t/o bearing, so its up to you overall, just make a judgment call and don't bitch if it bites you in the ***.
Good luck
Good luck
08-28-10, 11:51 AM
#38
Every clutch on the SR motorsports page comes with a pilot bearing and throw out bearing. How can you say you don't know if they even make one. REPLACE IT, you're already there. You can get the complete OEM clutch from SR motorsports with the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and pilot bearing seal for 429. It says free shipping also, but not sure if that includes international.
08-28-10, 02:10 PM
#40
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Thanks for the info + pic!
What I was wondering is if the pilot + t/o bearing is clutch specific? Will my OEM pilot + t/o work on the stage 2 Exedy clutch? If I do buy it from the guy, he doesn't have those 2 pieces, so I'd have to buy them if the ones I have don't fit in the new clutch.
Also, I looked on a few auto websites and couldn't find the "Rear Main Seal" on any of them. Anyone have a link, or a name that might help me find it?
What I was wondering is if the pilot + t/o bearing is clutch specific? Will my OEM pilot + t/o work on the stage 2 Exedy clutch? If I do buy it from the guy, he doesn't have those 2 pieces, so I'd have to buy them if the ones I have don't fit in the new clutch.
Also, I looked on a few auto websites and couldn't find the "Rear Main Seal" on any of them. Anyone have a link, or a name that might help me find it?
08-28-10, 05:16 PM
#42
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N315-16-490MV is the Mazda part number for a complete factory clutch. It includes; clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool.
It IS best to replace the T.O. bearing and pilot bearing when replacing the clutch. One.......the old parts have 'worn together' and should not be mixed and matched. Two.......it's just plain makes sence to do it once and do it right. The only thing I would NOT replace is the flywheel (unless it shows excessive signs of wear).
The total cost is $232.91US from a dealership in the USA. I will PM you the name and # of the dealership.
It IS best to replace the T.O. bearing and pilot bearing when replacing the clutch. One.......the old parts have 'worn together' and should not be mixed and matched. Two.......it's just plain makes sence to do it once and do it right. The only thing I would NOT replace is the flywheel (unless it shows excessive signs of wear).
The total cost is $232.91US from a dealership in the USA. I will PM you the name and # of the dealership.
08-29-10, 04:21 AM
#45
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Thanks so much for all the help that has been given in this thread!
Glad there's somewhere I can go to get some help when I'm having problems with the car, since I don't know everything about cars, and the Rx7 being 10x harder than most.
I bought a clutch today, and should have it installed sometime this week. I'll post in this thread on how it goes.
Glad there's somewhere I can go to get some help when I'm having problems with the car, since I don't know everything about cars, and the Rx7 being 10x harder than most.
I bought a clutch today, and should have it installed sometime this week. I'll post in this thread on how it goes.
08-30-10, 01:06 AM
#47
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08-30-10, 03:00 AM
#49
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At the very minimum and I mean very minimum the pilot bearing and seal should be replaced. That is cheap insurance. Good insurance is replacing the t/o bearing too.
Just think of how much of a pain in the *** it is to pull the engine/tranny, and then imagine doing that 1k miles later cause you f****d the pilot bearing from taking the tranny (or engine) out ****-eyed. It's happened. Don't let it be you next.
Just think of how much of a pain in the *** it is to pull the engine/tranny, and then imagine doing that 1k miles later cause you f****d the pilot bearing from taking the tranny (or engine) out ****-eyed. It's happened. Don't let it be you next.
08-30-10, 05:10 PM
#50
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You talked me into it...
Just need to know if there's a difference in the Stage 2 Exedy clutch's t/o and pilot bearing from the OEM ones. Because I bought a Stage 2 but don't have the t/o + pilot, so need to buy them somewhere, anywhere I can go to just buy those 2 pieces? If there is a difference, I'll need a place selling the Stage 2. If not, OEM pieces will be fine.
Just need to know if there's a difference in the Stage 2 Exedy clutch's t/o and pilot bearing from the OEM ones. Because I bought a Stage 2 but don't have the t/o + pilot, so need to buy them somewhere, anywhere I can go to just buy those 2 pieces? If there is a difference, I'll need a place selling the Stage 2. If not, OEM pieces will be fine.