ABS system, in or out?
08-06-09, 03:34 PM
#26
No, you re-read. Even his title is a question. He asked for opinions and the pros and cons. Since the loss of an important safety feature had already been pointed out, I added another.
Yes they are. And for searching too. Just like I did when I wanted to know what was involved. As I said, I even found pictures. Try it.
Look Dr. Phil, I'm not loosing sleep over how you define me. Besides, I think my helpful track record is solid enough. Now go re-read your post. You accused those that encouraged retaining the ABS of "venting" and having a "rant" just because it didn't fit your perspective or answer your question in someone else's thread. Stop crying, do a search and answer your own question. And since you now seem to be name calling and in the middle of your own rant...go for it.
Appologies to the OP and Mods.
Appologies to the OP and Mods.
08-06-09, 05:03 PM
#27
It wasn't me!!
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maybe you should re read some of your own post and you'll see that you were showing your "useful track record" experience to answer the question, but instead seemed very sarcastic.
As I said before, the information out there contradicts each other, and it would be good to have a "solid" how to on the subject.
Your brakes are something you can't just "rig" and see if it works.. if you get the drift.
My apologies to you Sgtblue for calling you a *****, you came off to me in that manner. I guess I was mistaken.
In every thread that I have searched, no one has given any advise on how to do this delete clearly, even when asked how to, instead, people try and tell you what you should and shouldn't do to your car, and put you down, if you don't listen them.
People with experience, have said, it comes down to your driving experience and style, what works for one, might not work for the next.
Maybe I should have started a thread on how to delete the ABS, but I'd bet that would be another... Your a **** *** moron to do that and it's dangerous and it makes no sense and blah blah blah.
I figured, good experienced opinions and then information on how to do it properly, would have saved this thread from becoming another one of those useless time waster thread.
Sorry Guys and Mods, for the thread hack. My intentions were not to start an unproductive chatter.
As I said before, the information out there contradicts each other, and it would be good to have a "solid" how to on the subject.
Your brakes are something you can't just "rig" and see if it works.. if you get the drift.
My apologies to you Sgtblue for calling you a *****, you came off to me in that manner. I guess I was mistaken.
In every thread that I have searched, no one has given any advise on how to do this delete clearly, even when asked how to, instead, people try and tell you what you should and shouldn't do to your car, and put you down, if you don't listen them.
People with experience, have said, it comes down to your driving experience and style, what works for one, might not work for the next.
Maybe I should have started a thread on how to delete the ABS, but I'd bet that would be another... Your a **** *** moron to do that and it's dangerous and it makes no sense and blah blah blah.
I figured, good experienced opinions and then information on how to do it properly, would have saved this thread from becoming another one of those useless time waster thread.
Sorry Guys and Mods, for the thread hack. My intentions were not to start an unproductive chatter.
08-06-09, 05:29 PM
#28
Where does this bolt go?
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I would think that if Formula 1 cars used it (Used in the late 80s early 90s until the ban) then it is good enough for my car. Here is an article from the Formula 1 website.
When it comes to the business of slowing down, Formula One cars are surprisingly closely related to their road-going cousins. Indeed as ABS anti-skid systems have been banned from Formula One racing, most modern road cars can lay claim to having considerably cleverer retardation.
The principle of braking is simple: slowing an object by removing kinetic energy from it. Formula One cars have disc brakes (like most road-cars) with rotating discs (attached to the wheels) being squeezed between two brake pads by the action of a hydraulic calliper. This turns a car's momentum into large amounts of heat and light - note the way Formula One brake discs glow yellow hot.
In the same way that too much power applied through a wheel will cause it to spin, too much braking will cause it to lock as the brakes overpower the available levels of grip from the tyre. Formula One previously allowed anti-skid braking systems (which would reduce the brake pressure to allow the wheel to turn again and then continue to slow it at the maximum possible rate) but these were banned in the 1990s. Braking therefore remains one of the sternest tests of a Formula One driver's skill.
The technical regulations also require that each car has a twin-circuit hydraulic braking system with two separate reservoirs for the front and rear wheels. This ensures that, even in the event of one complete circuit failure, braking should still be available through the second circuit. The amount of braking power going to the front and rear circuits can be 'biased' by a control in the cockpit, allowing a driver to stabilise handling or take account of falling fuel load. Under normal operation about 60 percent of braking power goes to the front wheels which, because of load transfer under deceleration, take the brunt of the retardation duties. (Think of what would happen if you tried to slow down a skateboard with a tennis ball on it).
In one area Formula One brakes are empirically more advanced than road-car systems: materials. All the cars on the grid now use carbon fibre composite brake discs which save weight and are able to operate at higher temperatures than steel discs. A typical Formula One brake disc weighs about 1.5 kg (versus 3.0 kg for the similar sized steel discs used in the American CART series). These are gripped by special compound brake pads and are capable of running at vast temperatures - anything up to 750 degrees Celsius. Previously different sized discs would be used for qualifying and racing, but the 2003 changes to the rules means that all cars enter parc ferme after qualifying - and so therefore set their one-lap time on their race brakes.
Formula One brakes are remarkably efficient. In combination with the modern advanced tyre compounds they have dramatically reduced braking distances. It takes a Formula One car considerably less distance to stop from 160 km/h than a road car uses to stop from 100 km/h. So good are the brakes that the regulations deliberately discourage development through restrictions on materials or design, to prevent even shorter braking distances rendering overtaking all but impossible.
From 2009 teams have the option of harnessing the waste energy generated by the car’s braking process and reusing it via a Kinetic Energy Recovery System (KERS) to provide additional engine power, which can be made available to a driver in short bursts to help facilitate overtaking.
When it comes to the business of slowing down, Formula One cars are surprisingly closely related to their road-going cousins. Indeed as ABS anti-skid systems have been banned from Formula One racing, most modern road cars can lay claim to having considerably cleverer retardation.
The principle of braking is simple: slowing an object by removing kinetic energy from it. Formula One cars have disc brakes (like most road-cars) with rotating discs (attached to the wheels) being squeezed between two brake pads by the action of a hydraulic calliper. This turns a car's momentum into large amounts of heat and light - note the way Formula One brake discs glow yellow hot.
In the same way that too much power applied through a wheel will cause it to spin, too much braking will cause it to lock as the brakes overpower the available levels of grip from the tyre. Formula One previously allowed anti-skid braking systems (which would reduce the brake pressure to allow the wheel to turn again and then continue to slow it at the maximum possible rate) but these were banned in the 1990s. Braking therefore remains one of the sternest tests of a Formula One driver's skill.
The technical regulations also require that each car has a twin-circuit hydraulic braking system with two separate reservoirs for the front and rear wheels. This ensures that, even in the event of one complete circuit failure, braking should still be available through the second circuit. The amount of braking power going to the front and rear circuits can be 'biased' by a control in the cockpit, allowing a driver to stabilise handling or take account of falling fuel load. Under normal operation about 60 percent of braking power goes to the front wheels which, because of load transfer under deceleration, take the brunt of the retardation duties. (Think of what would happen if you tried to slow down a skateboard with a tennis ball on it).
In one area Formula One brakes are empirically more advanced than road-car systems: materials. All the cars on the grid now use carbon fibre composite brake discs which save weight and are able to operate at higher temperatures than steel discs. A typical Formula One brake disc weighs about 1.5 kg (versus 3.0 kg for the similar sized steel discs used in the American CART series). These are gripped by special compound brake pads and are capable of running at vast temperatures - anything up to 750 degrees Celsius. Previously different sized discs would be used for qualifying and racing, but the 2003 changes to the rules means that all cars enter parc ferme after qualifying - and so therefore set their one-lap time on their race brakes.
Formula One brakes are remarkably efficient. In combination with the modern advanced tyre compounds they have dramatically reduced braking distances. It takes a Formula One car considerably less distance to stop from 160 km/h than a road car uses to stop from 100 km/h. So good are the brakes that the regulations deliberately discourage development through restrictions on materials or design, to prevent even shorter braking distances rendering overtaking all but impossible.
From 2009 teams have the option of harnessing the waste energy generated by the car’s braking process and reusing it via a Kinetic Energy Recovery System (KERS) to provide additional engine power, which can be made available to a driver in short bursts to help facilitate overtaking.
08-06-09, 06:28 PM
#29
Rotary Freak
Local race car removed the system for twin masters initially and then had it re-installed, found that particular electronic gizmo out performs anything fading grey matter and muscle controlled pressure modulation can achieve......17hrs of 290kmh to 80kmh stops about every three minutes, before those pesky seals escaped!!
Deletion isn't much of a conundrum, hardline split for the front pair coming off the master, single run to the rear then splitting at the rear cradle....several meters of bundy tube, a 3/16"bender and double flare tool should have the job done.
Deletion isn't much of a conundrum, hardline split for the front pair coming off the master, single run to the rear then splitting at the rear cradle....several meters of bundy tube, a 3/16"bender and double flare tool should have the job done.
10-05-09, 10:06 PM
#30
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sorry to bring back an old thread but ive been looking into an abs delete kit but was wondering if it was benifitial for drifting or not. im looking to build a weekend drifter and just wanted to know if i should keep abs or scrap it. thanks
10-06-09, 12:11 PM
#31
I dont know if it will help with drifing or not. I removed mine since it is not a dedicated track car and it will never see rain, and only be on the street on the way to or from the track. As far as a kit goes, dont waste your money. I found a kit recently to do away with the abs and they wanted something like $300.00. Just buy enough brake line, a bender, flaring tool, and some fittings and do it your self. You might want to add a proportioning valve inline with the feed to the rears.
