abs solenoid
01-20-08, 01:23 PM
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abs solenoid
Hello
Within the last few weeks my abs warning light has been coming on occasionally and has been accompanied by a vibrating from the abs controller which continues after shut down.
Having searched the forum the general concensus seems to be that I have a faulty/sticky solenoid. I am yet to find a post that describes the process for fixing this problem and the fsm fails to cast any light on this issue either. Does anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
Tim.
Within the last few weeks my abs warning light has been coming on occasionally and has been accompanied by a vibrating from the abs controller which continues after shut down.
Having searched the forum the general concensus seems to be that I have a faulty/sticky solenoid. I am yet to find a post that describes the process for fixing this problem and the fsm fails to cast any light on this issue either. Does anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
Tim.
01-20-08, 08:04 PM
#2
The ABS system isn't rotary specific.........
In other words, you can take it to the dealer & have him hook up his magic machine to diagnose the problem......... The FSM has a wonderful troubleshooting section, but you need to get ahold of alot of the special tools listed.
But beware...........You now have extremely front brake bias with no ABS. You will rear-end someone if your not careful. I would get it fixed ASAP.
Short story
I got the ABS light & experianced massive front brake lock up after the finish line at a autocross event.
When I opened the hood I could hear the ABS Motor running. Even after I shut engine off, the ABS Motor continued to run.
I pulled the ABS fuses (40 & 15 amp) from the fuse/relay box near the left strut tower. This shut the ABS Motor off, but I still had the light & some serious front brake bias.
With the engine still off I put the fuses back in & the ABS Motor started running again, so I pulled the fuses to save my battery. After a while, 1/2hr or so, I put the fuses back in & all was back to normal. It stayed that way for a couple of months.
Then during a lapping day I got massive front brake lock up (the right front tire taking the brunt) & ended up flat spotting my R compound tire to the cord. The F*cking ABS light was on again. Back in the pits, with the hood up, I could hear the ABS Motor running.
The ABS Hydro Electrical unit (r/h corner of the engine compartment, l/h corner in RHD cars)) has two relays under the black plastic cover. One is for the Pump Motor & the other is for the Valve.
I removed & tested both relays on the bench with voltage. They operated normally. I heated the Pump Motor relay up to 250' F & applied voltage the damn thing stuck closed. After it cooled down I could hear it snap open.
That's why the system would return to normal if I waited long enough to put the fuses back in.
During normal street driving you don't cycle the ABS much, if at all. On the track it must be cycling & generating a bunch of heat (due to high resistance & poor contact).
Summary?
I replaced both relays in the ABS Hydro Elect unit. They cost around $60 for the pair. They lasted 13 years, not to bad in my book.
ABS Motor Relay: NA23-43-7A2
ABS Valve Relay: NA23-43-7A3
In other words, you can take it to the dealer & have him hook up his magic machine to diagnose the problem......... The FSM has a wonderful troubleshooting section, but you need to get ahold of alot of the special tools listed.
But beware...........You now have extremely front brake bias with no ABS. You will rear-end someone if your not careful. I would get it fixed ASAP.
Short story
I got the ABS light & experianced massive front brake lock up after the finish line at a autocross event.
When I opened the hood I could hear the ABS Motor running. Even after I shut engine off, the ABS Motor continued to run.
I pulled the ABS fuses (40 & 15 amp) from the fuse/relay box near the left strut tower. This shut the ABS Motor off, but I still had the light & some serious front brake bias.
With the engine still off I put the fuses back in & the ABS Motor started running again, so I pulled the fuses to save my battery. After a while, 1/2hr or so, I put the fuses back in & all was back to normal. It stayed that way for a couple of months.
Then during a lapping day I got massive front brake lock up (the right front tire taking the brunt) & ended up flat spotting my R compound tire to the cord. The F*cking ABS light was on again. Back in the pits, with the hood up, I could hear the ABS Motor running.
The ABS Hydro Electrical unit (r/h corner of the engine compartment, l/h corner in RHD cars)) has two relays under the black plastic cover. One is for the Pump Motor & the other is for the Valve.
I removed & tested both relays on the bench with voltage. They operated normally. I heated the Pump Motor relay up to 250' F & applied voltage the damn thing stuck closed. After it cooled down I could hear it snap open.
That's why the system would return to normal if I waited long enough to put the fuses back in.
During normal street driving you don't cycle the ABS much, if at all. On the track it must be cycling & generating a bunch of heat (due to high resistance & poor contact).
Summary?
I replaced both relays in the ABS Hydro Elect unit. They cost around $60 for the pair. They lasted 13 years, not to bad in my book.
ABS Motor Relay: NA23-43-7A2
ABS Valve Relay: NA23-43-7A3
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