99 Spec Brake Ducts
11-13-07, 12:16 PM
#7
NASA TTS Build
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies, I'll hold off for now and see where my brakes are at in March.
The reason I was thinking about brake ducting was because my brakes started to go out last Thursday at Lime Rock causing me to cut my day short. I just wanted to be ready in the spring with the best brake set-up possible without going with a BBK.
The reason I was thinking about brake ducting was because my brakes started to go out last Thursday at Lime Rock causing me to cut my day short. I just wanted to be ready in the spring with the best brake set-up possible without going with a BBK.
Trending Topics
11-13-07, 04:51 PM
#9
NASA TTS Build
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran stock brakes with Porterfield R4 Pads. I'm gonna install PowerSlot Front Rotors and DBA Slotted Rears since I think my rotors are warped (I was getting vibrations under braking). I want to make sure I have no problems when I hit the track again in March.
Edit: I also had Ford High Performance Brake fluid but I'm now gonna switch to Motul 600.
Edit: I also had Ford High Performance Brake fluid but I'm now gonna switch to Motul 600.
11-13-07, 04:58 PM
#10
Lime Rock is not a huge track to be killing your brakes. Are you sure it wasn't just pad fade from them being new? Here's what I've been running:
N-Tech Lapping Day pads Front
Bonez State I pads Rear
ATE Super Blue/Gold fluid
Stock blank rotors
I do have SS brake lines but that has nothing to do with cooling.
I have not had any issues on the track with that setup. The last track I ran was Heartland Park which is longer than Lime Rock with some good straights. I had no problems with fade at all (running Victoracers). Next year, I will be adding some brake ducting for "just in case" as I was able to find someone selling the N-Tech ducted backing plates.
N-Tech Lapping Day pads Front
Bonez State I pads Rear
ATE Super Blue/Gold fluid
Stock blank rotors
I do have SS brake lines but that has nothing to do with cooling.
I have not had any issues on the track with that setup. The last track I ran was Heartland Park which is longer than Lime Rock with some good straights. I had no problems with fade at all (running Victoracers). Next year, I will be adding some brake ducting for "just in case" as I was able to find someone selling the N-Tech ducted backing plates.
11-13-07, 05:21 PM
#11
Can you please post a pic of thes 99 spec ducts?
I ask, because I spent $170 ordering the '93 ducts from Ray. They arrived and did not line up with the '99 lip at all. A lot of aluminum ducting would have been neccesary to get airflow from the lip to the ducts. Not practical or reliable. How do the new ducts work? Capture air from the cooler vent and send it down to the brakes? Or, do they catch air from the lip and send it to the oil cooler? Either way doesn't seem realisitc.
Currently I am trying to buy just the ducts from the '99 front end group buy, but they are having difficulties.
I ask, because I spent $170 ordering the '93 ducts from Ray. They arrived and did not line up with the '99 lip at all. A lot of aluminum ducting would have been neccesary to get airflow from the lip to the ducts. Not practical or reliable. How do the new ducts work? Capture air from the cooler vent and send it down to the brakes? Or, do they catch air from the lip and send it to the oil cooler? Either way doesn't seem realisitc.
Currently I am trying to buy just the ducts from the '99 front end group buy, but they are having difficulties.
11-13-07, 05:23 PM
#12
NASA TTS Build
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lime Rock is not a huge track to be killing your brakes. Are you sure it wasn't just pad fade from them being new? Here's what I've been running:
N-Tech Lapping Day pads Front
Bonez State I pads Rear
ATE Super Blue/Gold fluid
Stock blank rotors
I do have SS brake lines but that has nothing to do with cooling. I have not had any issues on the track with that setup. The last track I ran was Heartland Park which is longer than Lime Rock with some good straights. I had no problems with fade at all (running Victoracers). Next year, I will be adding some brake ducting for "just in case" as I was able to find someone selling the N-Tech ducted backing plates.
N-Tech Lapping Day pads Front
Bonez State I pads Rear
ATE Super Blue/Gold fluid
Stock blank rotors
I do have SS brake lines but that has nothing to do with cooling.
I have not had any issues on the track with that setup. The last track I ran was Heartland Park which is longer than Lime Rock with some good straights. I had no problems with fade at all (running Victoracers). Next year, I will be adding some brake ducting for "just in case" as I was able to find someone selling the N-Tech ducted backing plates.
11-13-07, 09:32 PM
#13
silver ghost
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Home of the Rolex 24
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Can you please post a pic of thes 99 spec ducts?
I ask, because I spent $170 ordering the '93 ducts from Ray. They arrived and did not line up with the '99 lip at all. A lot of aluminum ducting would have been neccesary to get airflow from the lip to the ducts. Not practical or reliable. How do the new ducts work? Capture air from the cooler vent and send it down to the brakes? Or, do they catch air from the lip and send it to the oil cooler? Either way doesn't seem realisitc.
Currently I am trying to buy just the ducts from the '99 front end group buy, but they are having difficulties.
I ask, because I spent $170 ordering the '93 ducts from Ray. They arrived and did not line up with the '99 lip at all. A lot of aluminum ducting would have been neccesary to get airflow from the lip to the ducts. Not practical or reliable. How do the new ducts work? Capture air from the cooler vent and send it down to the brakes? Or, do they catch air from the lip and send it to the oil cooler? Either way doesn't seem realisitc.
Currently I am trying to buy just the ducts from the '99 front end group buy, but they are having difficulties.
11-13-07, 11:21 PM
#14
Thanks for the reply. It may very well have been because of the new pads but I believe the main problem was the warped rotors that caused the vibration which ended my day. The way I see it, the more preventive measures I can take the better so the next time out I'll have no problems. I'm thinking that there was a problem before going on track that I didn't notice on the street and was amplified under the heavy braking at the track.
In any event, vibrations are not a symptom of overheating. Overheating in its various forms causes no brakes when you want them.
I tried slotted rotors, and all they did was wear out my pads (alot) faster. I would stick with solid rotors on the track, but YMMV...
11-13-07, 11:30 PM
#15
NASA TTS Build
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is it possible you didn't do enough of a cool-down lap? If you stop the car with the brakes still hot from the track, the pads will bake extra material on to that portion of the rotor (well, I'm not really sure that is what happens, but SOMETHING bad definitely does happen to that spot on the rotor), changing the coefficient of friction at that spot. Next time you use the car, you will get bad vibrations during braking as the pads run over this spot. Try sanding the rotors, and if that doesn't work, get them very lightly turned or better yet buy new ones. Read the StopTech whitepapers on rotor "warp" (it is a myth).
In any event, vibrations are not a symptom of overheating. Overheating in its various forms causes no brakes when you want them.
I tried slotted rotors, and all they did was wear out my pads (alot) faster. I would stick with solid rotors on the track, but YMMV...
In any event, vibrations are not a symptom of overheating. Overheating in its various forms causes no brakes when you want them.
I tried slotted rotors, and all they did was wear out my pads (alot) faster. I would stick with solid rotors on the track, but YMMV...
11-13-07, 11:35 PM
#17
Also, when you say fade, what type of fade was it?
a) Pedal going to mush
b) Pedal firm, but car not slowing
A will deal with your fluid. B will deal with the brake pads.
11-13-07, 11:37 PM
#18
Check this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/99-brake-duct-gathering-interest-574012/
There should be a picture in the initial post.
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/99-brake-duct-gathering-interest-574012/
There should be a picture in the initial post.
11-13-07, 11:40 PM
#19
NASA TTS Build
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you bed in the pads? I know when I ran the Carbotech XP10's on my M3, it took a good two or three 15-20 minute sessions to get them bedded in. Before that, they were almost worse than the stock pads.
Also, when you say fade, what type of fade was it?
a) Pedal going to mush
b) Pedal firm, but car not slowing
A will deal with your fluid. B will deal with the brake pads.
Also, when you say fade, what type of fade was it?
a) Pedal going to mush
b) Pedal firm, but car not slowing
A will deal with your fluid. B will deal with the brake pads.
11-14-07, 08:33 AM
#22
I would suggest getting some new front blank rotors (or some good used ones) and see if it clears up. Make sure to bed the pads in properly on the replacement rotors.
