Can I fit 99 Spec brake ducts with a 99 Spec lip and a stock bumper? I'm guessing its possible with some modification.

 

Why would you do that?

 

he wants to use 99 spec lip with the right brake ducting, seems good to me

 

pretty much anything is possible with some modification.

 

Yes and no. The '99 Spec ducts are for both the oil cooler and the brakes, so it eliminates the oil cooler duct from the 93-95's. IMO, you'd be better off trying to fit the R1/R2 ducts rather than the '99 ducts.

 

The factory brake ducts aren't worth much.... If you want real results worth of fab time, you need to do dedicated brake ducts. It's also worthy noting that unless you're tracking the car, you don't need them anyway.

 

Thanks for the replies, I'll hold off for now and see where my brakes are at in March.

The reason I was thinking about brake ducting was because my brakes started to go out last Thursday at Lime Rock causing me to cut my day short. I just wanted to be ready in the spring with the best brake set-up possible without going with a BBK.

 

What was your brake setup at the track this last time?

 

I ran stock brakes with Porterfield R4 Pads. I'm gonna install PowerSlot Front Rotors and DBA Slotted Rears since I think my rotors are warped (I was getting vibrations under braking). I want to make sure I have no problems when I hit the track again in March.

Edit: I also had Ford High Performance Brake fluid but I'm now gonna switch to Motul 600.

 

Lime Rock is not a huge track to be killing your brakes. Are you sure it wasn't just pad fade from them being new? Here's what I've been running:

N-Tech Lapping Day pads Front
Bonez State I pads Rear
ATE Super Blue/Gold fluid
Stock blank rotors

I do have SS brake lines but that has nothing to do with cooling. I have not had any issues on the track with that setup. The last track I ran was Heartland Park which is longer than Lime Rock with some good straights. I had no problems with fade at all (running Victoracers). Next year, I will be adding some brake ducting for "just in case" as I was able to find someone selling the N-Tech ducted backing plates.

 

Can you please post a pic of thes 99 spec ducts?

I ask, because I spent $170 ordering the '93 ducts from Ray. They arrived and did not line up with the '99 lip at all. A lot of aluminum ducting would have been neccesary to get airflow from the lip to the ducts. Not practical or reliable. How do the new ducts work? Capture air from the cooler vent and send it down to the brakes? Or, do they catch air from the lip and send it to the oil cooler? Either way doesn't seem realisitc.

Currently I am trying to buy just the ducts from the '99 front end group buy, but they are having difficulties.

 

Thanks for the reply. It may very well have been because of the new pads but I believe the main problem was the warped rotors that caused the vibration which ended my day. The way I see it, the more preventive measures I can take the better so the next time out I'll have no problems. I'm thinking that there was a problem before going on track that I didn't notice on the street and was amplified under the heavy braking at the track.

 

I ordered the 99 spec oil cooler ducts from RHD Japan. It says " 15 to 20 % larger opening for better cooling. They are the exact same as the 93 to 95 !! Obviously dont line up w/ the 99 front endI. paid for the same **** and shipping from Japan. What a rip off. What a scheme! G

 

Is it possible you didn't do enough of a cool-down lap? If you stop the car with the brakes still hot from the track, the pads will bake extra material on to that portion of the rotor (well, I'm not really sure that is what happens, but SOMETHING bad definitely does happen to that spot on the rotor), changing the coefficient of friction at that spot. Next time you use the car, you will get bad vibrations during braking as the pads run over this spot. Try sanding the rotors, and if that doesn't work, get them very lightly turned or better yet buy new ones. Read the StopTech whitepapers on rotor "warp" (it is a myth).

In any event, vibrations are not a symptom of overheating. Overheating in its various forms causes no brakes when you want them.

I tried slotted rotors, and all they did was wear out my pads (alot) faster. I would stick with solid rotors on the track, but YMMV...

 

This happened from the first lap until the last. It progressively got worse until I had to call it a day. The only thing I can think is the problem is the rotors unless someone has another idea.

 

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Did you bed in the pads? I know when I ran the Carbotech XP10's on my M3, it took a good two or three 15-20 minute sessions to get them bedded in. Before that, they were almost worse than the stock pads.

Also, when you say fade, what type of fade was it?

a) Pedal going to mush
b) Pedal firm, but car not slowing

A will deal with your fluid. B will deal with the brake pads.

 

Check this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/99-brake-duct-gathering-interest-574012/

There should be a picture in the initial post.

 

It wasn't fade, the car stopped well and the pedal feel was good but there was a constant vibration under braking.

 

Ok. You said "brakes started to go out". So, they didn't really start to go out; you just had an un-nerving vibration while braking.

 

Sorry, yes thats what I meant. It was bad enough for my instructor to tell me to call it a day.

 

Ironic, as I had a student with the same problem about 2 years ago in a 240sx. As an instructor, it scares the crap out of you as you don't want the brakes to fail and they most likely wont', but the vibration is abnormal. I didn't tell my student to pack it up, but I did make sure he wasn't trying to push too hard just in case there was a 'real' problem.

I would suggest getting some new front blank rotors (or some good used ones) and see if it clears up. Make sure to bed the pads in properly on the replacement rotors.

 

I have a new set of PowerSlot front rotors and DBA rear rotors at home so I'll see how those work. Hopefully its just the rotors.

Thanks

 

As other have put it, vibrations are mainly caused by the rotors. I think your pads may have exacerbated the problem due to increased heat.

 

isn't there other ways to increase cooling to the brakes...I'm new but interested, can I see a picture of the duct and the location so I can understand.