Yesterday I hooked up the 7.
got 3 runs in, but the first one had a bad ground the plot read awkward.
*2nd pull in 4th gear is posted top
I only have Intake and N1 exhaust.
(close to stock boost 11-8-10..then drops slowly to 6psi)

** last pull a little hotter and A/F is read on this one. Thinking Im safe enough to install a DP.

-please let me know if pics dont show.

 

pics don't show

 

crap. yahoo.photos sucks.
233HP & 222 TQ
with a A/F ratio that never goes above 11.5
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/exhibit76...iew=t&.hires=t

 

 

The images were small enough to upload as attactments...

 

cool. thanks alot

 

How much boost are you running? How old is the fuel filter? Your car is running pretty lean for those mods, unless you have a PFC or something.

Jeff

 

Im stock except for the intake and exhaust
you think thats lean? well the fuel filter does need to be changed.
I just ordered some new plugs (my gas mileage sucks too) but Im gonna try 9's all away around.. and round 2 was to have the filter replaced.. Im thinking of having the dealership change the fuel filter (unless its easier than it looks). thanks for the insight

 

Turbojeff is right, you are running lean for those mods (unless the A/F sniffer isn't very accurate). My dyno with a downpipe and cat-back showed an A/F of 10:1 or less from 4500-7500 rpm. This is typical from what I have seen. Replace your fuel filter. I would stick with 7s on the leading plugs, there's no reason to go to 9s with your mods.

If you install a downpipe, watch your boost to make sure you are not spiking or overboosting. For what it's worth, my boost used to drop to 7 psi at 6000 rpm and hold constant until redline. With my new Greddy ProfecB boost controller, it's holding 9 all the way to redline (with a quicker transition to boot).

 

lean huh that sux. Ok, I will take the necessary precautions then.. and get the Fuel Filter changed. Mazda wants a crap load for it though! I already ordered the 9's and will try them o see how it runs.
I appreciate it fellas

 

i thought stock Fd comes with 255 hp. How come you got 233 with intake and Exhaust?

 

255 hp at the flywheel. The numbers on the dyno read hp ATW (at the wheels).

 

255 doesn't account for drivetrain losses...

 

Most FDs seem to put down 210-225 rwhp stock so those numbers are pretty close to normal - Mazda might screw your car up..unless they have a RX7 or 2 in the bay (i.e. if they work on them alot which is doubtful), take your car to a noteable rotary mechanic. It's well worth it with these cars

 

[quote]i thought stock Fd comes with 255 hp. How come you got 233 with intake and Exhaust?[quote] Youve got all those mods and dont know that!? *must have bought yours like that...

 

I never took mine to the dyno, and i'm not planing on going soon. So i don't know how much hp's do i have. SO I didn't know that, and also i didn't know that dyno only tells rwhp.


[QUOTE]Originally posted by HeatTreated
[quote]i thought stock Fd comes with 255 hp. How come you got 233 with intake and Exhaust?

Quote:

Youve got all those mods and dont know that!? *must have bought yours like that...

 

You are running a tuneable ECU without ever having been to the dyno? I hope you are not trusting that A/F gauge of yours.... You seriously need to go to a dyno or purchase a wideband to verify that your A/F ratios are safe.

 

As long as i'm not lean, I'm fine.

 

And you know you're not running lean how????? Not trying to bust your *****, just trying to save you from blowing an engine. Going to a dyno shop for 3 runs with a wideband sensor should cost about $60-$70. Spend the money.

 

Sometimes a cat converter before the a:f meter will throw off the readings, usually it will read leaner than actual. I wouldn't sweat the indicated a:f ratio unless you install the probe before any converters.

Wade