94 Red - Diagnostic Help!!!!!
04-11-05, 09:02 PM
#1
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94 Red - Diagnostic Help!!!!!
Alternator belt broke on car today. Unfortunately its the same belt that drive the radiator pump. Engine over heated. Pulled over as quickly as possible. Had towed to local mazda garage.
Does this diagnostic sound right? If it does, please suggest place to purchase replacement parts.
Dealer performed leak test on the front and rear rotors. Front 7.1/6.9/7.7 and Rear 8.8/8.8/8.6.
He also noted that coolant was leaking out of the front rotor spark plugs hole.
He also presure tested the radators and the pressure held at 15 psi.
The dealer is suggesting that the engine, and turbos need to be replaced. And of also the gaskets.He also noted that coolant was leaking out of the front rotor spark plugs hole.
He also presure tested the radators and the pressure held at 15 psi.
Does this diagnostic sound right? If it does, please suggest place to purchase replacement parts.
04-11-05, 09:12 PM
#2
The turbos are probably not bad if under 60k or 80k miles. However, those numbers indeed indicate a shot motor. And replacing the motor usually requires new gaskets all around ($$), new coolant hoses, new radiator, AST, vacuum hoses, and a few other things that are silly to not replace at this time.
You can do much better on pricing, expertise, and value by going to someone OTHER than the dealer. I recommend looking the NorthEast section for a recommended shop near you.
Dave
You can do much better on pricing, expertise, and value by going to someone OTHER than the dealer. I recommend looking the NorthEast section for a recommended shop near you.
Dave
04-11-05, 09:13 PM
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Why would that suggest that the turbos need to be replaced? What a bunch of theives. Where are you located?
Also, if there was coolant coming out of your spark plug hole you would have to have one hell of an internal leak, white smoke would be billowing out of the exhaust when the car was running. I'm not saying you don't have an o-ring failure, but I doubt that a leak down of the coolant system would yield 15psi if you had coolant coming out of the sparkplug hole. Also, although those aren't the best compression numbers, they by no means warrant a new engine, let alone a turbo. I drove around for years with a consistant 6.5 on the front rotor just fine.
You need to take it to someone more reputable, these ******* are trying to pull a fast one.
Also, if there was coolant coming out of your spark plug hole you would have to have one hell of an internal leak, white smoke would be billowing out of the exhaust when the car was running. I'm not saying you don't have an o-ring failure, but I doubt that a leak down of the coolant system would yield 15psi if you had coolant coming out of the sparkplug hole. Also, although those aren't the best compression numbers, they by no means warrant a new engine, let alone a turbo. I drove around for years with a consistant 6.5 on the front rotor just fine.
You need to take it to someone more reputable, these ******* are trying to pull a fast one.
04-11-05, 09:21 PM
#5
The difference between rotors is over 1.5 kgf/cm^2, which doesn't quite pass spec. Also, the front rotor is pushing the low end on compression.
You're right, you could probably milk it for a while longer, but if there is coolant showing on the spark plug I wouldn't hold my breath. Especially since it just got off an overheat, the seals may be failing quickly if a housing warped.
The best thing to do is take it to a qualified rotary shop for a better diagnosis. Dealers are barely adequate.
Dave
You're right, you could probably milk it for a while longer, but if there is coolant showing on the spark plug I wouldn't hold my breath. Especially since it just got off an overheat, the seals may be failing quickly if a housing warped.
The best thing to do is take it to a qualified rotary shop for a better diagnosis. Dealers are barely adequate.
Dave
04-11-05, 09:32 PM
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I would agree with that.
Although, I still believe those numbers are fine. I have seen many a motor that ran perfectly fine with numbers far worse than that. Also, if there was a coolant leak, the car should have failed the leak down on the radiator.
Anyways, I wouldn't trust anything they said. The whole thing sounds like bs. Take the car to a recommended rotary specialist in your area. Your dealer obviously is not one of the rotary proficient ones.
BTW, If we went with Mazda specs on everything, there would never be a used part in any rebuild. Their specs are ideal measurements, not necessary measurements.
Although, I still believe those numbers are fine. I have seen many a motor that ran perfectly fine with numbers far worse than that. Also, if there was a coolant leak, the car should have failed the leak down on the radiator.
Anyways, I wouldn't trust anything they said. The whole thing sounds like bs. Take the car to a recommended rotary specialist in your area. Your dealer obviously is not one of the rotary proficient ones.
BTW, If we went with Mazda specs on everything, there would never be a used part in any rebuild. Their specs are ideal measurements, not necessary measurements.
