Alternator belt broke on car today. Unfortunately its the same belt that drive the radiator pump. Engine over heated. Pulled over as quickly as possible. Had towed to local mazda garage.
The dealer is suggesting that the engine, and turbos need to be replaced. And of also the gaskets.

Does this diagnostic sound right? If it does, please suggest place to purchase replacement parts.

 

The turbos are probably not bad if under 60k or 80k miles. However, those numbers indeed indicate a shot motor. And replacing the motor usually requires new gaskets all around ($$), new coolant hoses, new radiator, AST, vacuum hoses, and a few other things that are silly to not replace at this time.

You can do much better on pricing, expertise, and value by going to someone OTHER than the dealer. I recommend looking the NorthEast section for a recommended shop near you.

Dave

 

Why would that suggest that the turbos need to be replaced? What a bunch of theives. Where are you located?

Also, if there was coolant coming out of your spark plug hole you would have to have one hell of an internal leak, white smoke would be billowing out of the exhaust when the car was running. I'm not saying you don't have an o-ring failure, but I doubt that a leak down of the coolant system would yield 15psi if you had coolant coming out of the sparkplug hole. Also, although those aren't the best compression numbers, they by no means warrant a new engine, let alone a turbo. I drove around for years with a consistant 6.5 on the front rotor just fine.

You need to take it to someone more reputable, these ******* are trying to pull a fast one.

 

Those numbers DO NOT indicate a shot motor!

 

The difference between rotors is over 1.5 kgf/cm^2, which doesn't quite pass spec. Also, the front rotor is pushing the low end on compression.

You're right, you could probably milk it for a while longer, but if there is coolant showing on the spark plug I wouldn't hold my breath. Especially since it just got off an overheat, the seals may be failing quickly if a housing warped.

The best thing to do is take it to a qualified rotary shop for a better diagnosis. Dealers are barely adequate.

Dave

 

I would agree with that.

Although, I still believe those numbers are fine. I have seen many a motor that ran perfectly fine with numbers far worse than that. Also, if there was a coolant leak, the car should have failed the leak down on the radiator.

Anyways, I wouldn't trust anything they said. The whole thing sounds like bs. Take the car to a recommended rotary specialist in your area. Your dealer obviously is not one of the rotary proficient ones.

BTW, If we went with Mazda specs on everything, there would never be a used part in any rebuild. Their specs are ideal measurements, not necessary measurements.

 

Where in ct are you? I just sold my fd and will have a freshly built motor in 2 weeks, send a pm to Kahren he is a builder in ct.

 

your engine is fine.

 

Not according to Mazda specs. Do you need a math tutor?

8.8-7.0 = 1.8 kg/cm² > 1.5

'Shot' is too strong a word, but it's def. not 'fine'.

Dave

 

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. For everyone else reading this, I replaced my belts last year, it cost less than $40 for the two belts, and the labor was an hour or two of my (unskilled) time.

-s-