93 turbo very poor acceleration
#51
Turd Ferguson
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I hate the FAQ. Pictures not available or links no longer working.
I still say it's a blown apex seal. Let us know what you find! 50$ to get a comp test from a rotary shop or DIY. If the engine was being driven with those mods, I'd consider yourself lucky that it made it as long as it did. You just look at the stock ecu wrong and it'll sh*t kick your engine.
I still say it's a blown apex seal. Let us know what you find! 50$ to get a comp test from a rotary shop or DIY. If the engine was being driven with those mods, I'd consider yourself lucky that it made it as long as it did. You just look at the stock ecu wrong and it'll sh*t kick your engine.
#53
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what kind of bs is this , are you saying that a dad can't help his son , do you have a dad sir . my son goes to college sir , do you have a idea what that is , so please don't put crap like this on there , keep to the probem with the car please , don't show your age !!!!!!
#54
Moderator
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You can ALWAYS submit a broken link to me or another mod. Sometimes pics can be fixed or found, broken links can be updated.
I can't solve a problem I don't know about - and if you're familiar with how much info has been collected, you should understand why parsing through it manually is not realistic.
Dave
I can't solve a problem I don't know about - and if you're familiar with how much info has been collected, you should understand why parsing through it manually is not realistic.
Dave
#55
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I hate the FAQ. Pictures not available or links no longer working.
I still say it's a blown apex seal. Let us know what you find! 50$ to get a comp test from a rotary shop or DIY. If the engine was being driven with those mods, I'd consider yourself lucky that it made it as long as it did. You just look at the stock ecu wrong and it'll sh*t kick your engine.
I still say it's a blown apex seal. Let us know what you find! 50$ to get a comp test from a rotary shop or DIY. If the engine was being driven with those mods, I'd consider yourself lucky that it made it as long as it did. You just look at the stock ecu wrong and it'll sh*t kick your engine.
#56
Racecar - Formula 2000
No he's not saying that. He's saying that with your modifications, no wastgate porting, no boost controller, and a stock ECU, you probably had boost creep (excessive boost that no boost controller can control w/o WG porting). Excessive boost with the stock ECU will result in at best, fuel cut, and at worst, detonation and a blown apex seal. I am not exagerating, those are just the facts.
#57
Mr. Links
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Changing the apex seals is a complete engine rebuild. They can run anywhere from $1500 up to $6000+ depending on what you have done. That low number would mean that a majority of your engine was able to be resused and you are doing all of the R&R (engine Remove & Reinstall) yourself. The turn-key options are much more expensive but can be worth it if you don't have the proper tools and knowledge about the car.
#59
RAWR
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please, please, please spell things correctly, and stop saying "sir". It gets a bit annoying.
If you are planning on doing a compression check on your own, compression should read between 90 and 120psi. 80 to 90psi is suspect, and anything below 80psi should be rebuilt.
Pull the EGR fuse, hold down the pressure release valve, and have someone turn over the motor for you. You should get three pulses. If you have a bad apex seal, you should get one good pulse, and two low/non-existant pulses.
A rebuild will depend on what all needs to be replaced. Figure between 1k and 1.5k for a seal kit, and then labor to remove, tear down, and rebuild the motor. If you need hard parts (irons, housings, rotors, e-shaft, etc.), expect the rebuild to reach in the 5k-8k range. If you barfed a seal and it ate turbos, expect 2-3k for NEW turbos.
If you have full exhaust with a stock computer, there is NO WAY the computer can compensate for the increased volumetric efficency of the motor. It WILL pump more air. The computer reads a MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor. It will only see 10psi, whether you're running 1cfm or 1000 cfm through the engine. giving the engine more air (by increasing it's volumetric efficiency) will most certainly run you on the ragged edge of the stock fuel map. One cool morning/evening/night, and say goodbye to your seals and hello to a rebuild.
If you are planning on doing a compression check on your own, compression should read between 90 and 120psi. 80 to 90psi is suspect, and anything below 80psi should be rebuilt.
Pull the EGR fuse, hold down the pressure release valve, and have someone turn over the motor for you. You should get three pulses. If you have a bad apex seal, you should get one good pulse, and two low/non-existant pulses.
A rebuild will depend on what all needs to be replaced. Figure between 1k and 1.5k for a seal kit, and then labor to remove, tear down, and rebuild the motor. If you need hard parts (irons, housings, rotors, e-shaft, etc.), expect the rebuild to reach in the 5k-8k range. If you barfed a seal and it ate turbos, expect 2-3k for NEW turbos.
If you have full exhaust with a stock computer, there is NO WAY the computer can compensate for the increased volumetric efficency of the motor. It WILL pump more air. The computer reads a MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor. It will only see 10psi, whether you're running 1cfm or 1000 cfm through the engine. giving the engine more air (by increasing it's volumetric efficiency) will most certainly run you on the ragged edge of the stock fuel map. One cool morning/evening/night, and say goodbye to your seals and hello to a rebuild.
#60
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
If you have full exhaust with a stock computer, there is NO WAY the computer can compensate for the increased volumetric efficency of the motor. It WILL pump more air. The computer reads a MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor. It will only see 10psi, whether you're running 1cfm or 1000 cfm through the engine. giving the engine more air (by increasing it's volumetric efficiency) will most certainly run you on the ragged edge of the stock fuel map. One cool morning/evening/night, and say goodbye to your seals and hello to a rebuild.
While this is getting a little off-track, it's been shown through dyno testing that boost pressure has much more to do with AFRs than flow. This is why the 10psi rule has worked out better than the old '3 mod' rule.
The reason full exhausts blow motors is because the boost level rises beyond the stock fuel levels. Wastegate porting and proper use of an adjustable boost controller will let the engine do just fine.
Dave
#61
RAWR
iTrader: (3)
While this is getting a little off-track, it's been shown through dyno testing that boost pressure has much more to do with AFRs than flow. This is why the 10psi rule has worked out better than the old '3 mod' rule.
The reason full exhausts blow motors is because the boost level rises beyond the stock fuel levels. Wastegate porting and proper use of an adjustable boost controller will let the engine do just fine.
Dave
The reason full exhausts blow motors is because the boost level rises beyond the stock fuel levels. Wastegate porting and proper use of an adjustable boost controller will let the engine do just fine.
Dave
I agree that boost creep is a big problem, but I seem to remember a big thread about wastegate porting and some people havn't had problems with full intake/exhaust with boost creep. Also, if he can keep it at 10psi with full exhaust, with no spikes, he's still going to flow more air through the engine than with stock exhaust, and will put him close to the upper limit of the stock engine map, and a cool morning/evening/night can, and probably will, put him over the edge into the dangerous zone.
#63
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In order to come to that realization I certainly did my OWN research on this forum but I certainly did NOT get my dad to post on my behalf as I could actually admit that "I" had a problem with my car and NOT "my son".
Like others have said get your son to do some reading and posting on this site....or what his too smart to be doing it on his own simply because his in college?
I don't know anyone who would do work on a car they have no idea from instructions given by word of mouth from someone else, who in this case has no idea either. I know I'd feel a lot better and comfortable by reading up and seeing it for myself.
#64
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WoW
All I can say out loud is wow! I do not understand how people can come on here and act like they are not personally experiencing the problems with the cars themselves. We all on this forum had to start learning from somewhere. We have all made dumb mistakes and asked for help at least once ourselves. The whole time I read this post I read the same problem retyped with 5th grade grammatical and spelling errors. Dude just admit you are the person having the problems and you are not the dad. No dad types with the poor sentence structure you have. Quit repeating the same story and if you really want help then don't try to show off. Why do you see the need to mention some of your other cars when there is a problem with your rex. (to make this post so much cooler I have seven really cool cars and a huge house! All are really fast by the way, including the house)
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