Hey guys -

Got a new customer with a '93 touring that I'll be doing some work on. Like many 93's, the glove box light shines on since it doesn't close right - REAL common problem on pretty much all '93s I've been around.

Mazda has a TSB on it that is supposed to replace the light itself or something. The part number for the TSB fix part is FD01 64 170A, and Ray at Malloy has it for $18.50. Has anyone got this part? I'm just wondering what exactly it is and how it fixes the problem.

Thanks,
Dale

 

& I'd be curious to find out as well... that darn light is stuck on for my 93 as well! Let me know what you find out.

 

^^^

 

i bump for this, as i have the same problem. let us know mang

 

Attached is a pic from the TSB - looks like the actual light is replaced. Interesting.

Anyone else with info on this?

Dale

 

Maybe I'm not understanding... but I thought the reason the light stayed on is because the glove box was pressing the 'light-off' switch in far enough... why would replacing the light fix the problem? In mine, if I push the glove box up a little bit, the light will go off.

 

Agreed.

For me, the little tab where the push-button (or rod) presses against has created a small indention on the once flat tab surface...just subtle enough so that the button/rod wouldn't fully contact and thus light stays on. Just add a layer or two of black electrical tape so it'll build surface up again...the light when now turn off properly once glove box door is shut.

 

The glove box light only works when you have the headlight switch on (either position).

I remember messing with it because mine seamed to only work intermittantly.

It then dawned on me that it only came on when the headlights were on.

 

Sadly this is how I had to fix a similar problem on my Jeep. The door-open/closed warning switch wasn't being pushed in all the way... so the car kept thinking the door was open... a little double sided tape & sheet metal later... good as new!

 

Dale,
FWIW, I just used two small squares of velcro and on the self-adheasive back I put a small rubber washer. Together it compresses the switch completely. Not as elegant as the TSB fix, but it's worked for 3+ years now. Just an option in case he doesn't want to spend $20.

 

I figure it would be a cinch to just add a little mass to the door so it hits the switch properly, but I'd be interested to use the "official" fix. Maybe it does something we're missing.

Dale

 

I did like everybody else has and built it up a bit with an adhesive backed foam. Its black, and nobody will ever notice it unless they have a reason to.

 

This is part of the problem, but with mine, the latch does not pull the door closed fully. In fact, (I don't know if this is everyone's problem) but my door will pop open if I hit a hard bump. Thus the latch is worn out and needs to be replaced. I tried to adjust the latch but there is no adjustment.

 

I messed around trying to fix mine forever, finally i got a little clear bumper for household cabinet doors and stuck it to the inside of the glove box where the pin hits it, fixed for now and its really not noticible, but id love to fix it the right way.

 

I'd be willing to bet that all Mazda did was lengthen the plunger.

 

i dont think so because on the 93's with this prob the side with the button sags slightly when it is closed.when you push it up and the light turns off its even. I have not seen any '94s or newer sag.

 

I am very aware of the problem and the reason behind it. That's why I said what I said. The TSB does not correct the sagging problem with the glove box. It addresses the switch design.

 

oh, you are saying the tsb lengthens the plunger, i thought you meant mazda did it for the 94's and up.i was thinking if that wer the case they would all sag.

 

Im having the same problem. But the bottom line is...Does anyone know how to do a permanent fix? I have heard that you just open it up and tighten the latch then reassemble the thing.

 

I had this issue with mine and fixed it in about 1 minute. I'm not sure if this is the common cause, but it helped with mine.

The latch on the door part has a rubbery coating on it that was wearing off where the stationary catch is. I slid a piece of the coating (since it was in two pieces at this point) over to the impact area, and the light hasn't been on since. In my case, the difference in the light coming on and going off was the small fraction of an inch of that rubbery piece. Once the door had to be held that much tighter, i haven't had any issues with the light.

 

I think you are right! mine doesnt have any rubber on it, didnt know it was supposed to. im gonna get a new latch.

 

well mine sags at the side closes to the HVAC panel. Thats why the light stays on.

 

Yea mine too. Extending the plunger or shimming the contact point would fix the light problem but the glovebox would still have a 1/4" gap because it doesn't close fully. Wish the hinge/latch was adjustable

 

mine sags too but the plastic on the latch might bring it up more when its closed. its worth a shot. Better than my rubber kitchen cabinet bumper in it, lol.

 

So the latch doesn't extend far enough... could you pull it off... & insert a thin washer to extend it?