I've searched, but can't find anything that seems to match what I'm seeing.
93 FD - mostly stock, AEMv1 ECU.
I live in Texas, and this is the first summer I've had the car, so I'm wondering if this is related to temp, and I need to adjust the tune?
After about an hour or so of traffic/highway driving, temp is about 190, car intermittently stalls when coming to a stop/clutch in.
Prior to that, drives fine. Apart from the stalling, drives fine when hot as well.
I tried with & without A/C running, didn't seem to make a difference.
Restarts fine - can bump start if I'm still moving, or crank to start. Although one time it wouldn't start for a minute or two - not great in traffic.
I'm going through the ECU log today from my drive yesterday, but I didn't notice anything weird on the laptop while I was driving.
I'll probably take a look at the dashpot today, clean it out if needed. I'm pretty sure the clutch switch is bypassed. (I may be getting this confused with neutral safety - need to double check)
Any thoughts?

 

What is the afr when this is happening

 

Huh. That's interesting.
AFR is solid flat line at 7.377. I wonder if wideband has failed.

 

If you say you checked the log and didn't see anything weird but missed that, you need to check it again and look at ALL the parameters

 

I pinged the guy who built the car, and asked him. He had mentioned in the past an issue with the O2 sensor failing at some point.

 

When I say I hadn't seen anything weird, I meant while driving - I just loaded up the log now to look closer.
I'm going to take a look at the rest of the parameters now & see if anything correlates. Might need to go for another drive, but of course it's not hot today.

 

If, in fact the O2 Sensor is not failing, check these parameters on your Idle page: RPM Offset vs TPS table; High Idle Above VSS; High Idle RPM Offset; High Idle Wait Time. All of these parameters are for helping this exact situation.

 

I live in Houston, FD RX7 R1, FP HTA GT3582R with no air pump and blue printed ports and no ISC with manual idle control.
Apexi PFC with with external boost control.

I tune my idle and cruise leaner than normal to reduce carbon buildup. Thus for summer I need to run about 3% more idle fuel with 3 degrees more IG than for winter.
I also have the PFC Air Temp vs Fuel table richer for higher temps.
I also run the FD-IGN-10XB ignition module igniter which make a very strong spark. .
Thus I have a summer map and a winter map.

Just add more air and fuel to keep it idling. Then adjust air, fuel, and timing for best hot running.

 

Someone with a similar issue found a faulty water temperature sensor showing up on his Power FC display.