93 fd running stupid rich
02-05-13, 09:23 PM
#26
Well guys thanks for the help but I'm over it. Its going to sit and collect dust for a while. I'm extremely frustrated with this right now. I check this and check that.....I got nothing for whats wrong.
Last edited by 86boy; 02-05-13 at 09:29 PM.
02-08-13, 01:27 AM
#27
OK soooooo I ended up basically taking it all apart again tonight. Intake manifold is off ignition coil packs, vacuum solenoids, and the fuel rail as well. I'm going to replace all the o rings for the injectors. Also discovered the throttle body was messed with as well. The fast idle can wasn't even close to touching the piece that is behind the TPS that opens the butterfly door a little more to pick up the idle. It was just opened quite a bit ALL the time Sooooo I was looking through the FSM and could only find how to set the fast idle cam, and not the whole throttle body. So more research is ahead of me! Wooohooo haha! I'm also testing every sensor in that area as well. Oooo almost forgot there's a air bypass valve where the wires are bare right off the sensor. Going to fix that as well. Any other things I should check look at/check/replace while I'm back in here?
02-08-13, 05:33 AM
#28
If you're pulling the injectors, I'd consider sending them in for cleaning and flow testing. Most will replace the 'O' rings for you, along with new pintel caps. You'll also get a before and after, which would let you know if there was a leaker. I used these guys back in the day and was happy. ---> http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=fuelinjectclean
Turn-around is usually pretty fast...4 to 5 days IIRC.
Otherwise, I haven't been in to my car that deep since a rebuild some years ago for a coolant seal failure. So I'm bringing it to you for diagnosis if I ever have issues.
Turn-around is usually pretty fast...4 to 5 days IIRC.
Otherwise, I haven't been in to my car that deep since a rebuild some years ago for a coolant seal failure. So I'm bringing it to you for diagnosis if I ever have issues.
02-18-13, 05:10 PM
#34
Little update!
Fuel injectors are fine and working properly according to injector RX. So im waiting for those to get back to me.
I have a new question with the throttle body though. What would happen if the doors were open slightly butbthe TPS was set to be "at idle" within the range. Also the fast idle wasnt touching anything as an idea of how far open the throttle was. I was pulling 15 on the ol vacuum gauge and 10s on the wideband. Would thay cause that issue that im having? Im seriously running out of ideas haha.
Fuel injectors are fine and working properly according to injector RX. So im waiting for those to get back to me.
I have a new question with the throttle body though. What would happen if the doors were open slightly butbthe TPS was set to be "at idle" within the range. Also the fast idle wasnt touching anything as an idea of how far open the throttle was. I was pulling 15 on the ol vacuum gauge and 10s on the wideband. Would thay cause that issue that im having? Im seriously running out of ideas haha.
02-23-13, 09:26 PM
#35
Well I got everything back together today, and did the simplified sequencial setup. Made sure everything was good vacuum wise even zip tied everything. Reset the TPS as well. Everything is connected with no codes.... Still runs high 10s-11.0 AFRs at idle, and when revved up it dumps pretty much raw fuel out the exhaust. While I had it apart i tested the fuel thermosensor, coolant sensor, air thermosensor, ignition coils, wires, and a few other things. I don't know what else to test.
I'm seriously at a loss with this. 93 rx7 might be for sale here soon since i cant figure it out. First car i cant figure out.
I'm seriously at a loss with this. 93 rx7 might be for sale here soon since i cant figure it out. First car i cant figure out.
02-26-13, 05:11 PM
#38
Soooo I really hate how I can't just let things go like this. They (cars) drive me nuts. Anyways I decided screw it what's the worst that can happen it'll blow up if I drive it? Waaahhoooo! Well in my case it didn't, but I did discover something odd... Other than this damn car hauls *** I was actually surprised. *trying to focus* anyways the first stage of boost goes right up to 10 psi then it drops to 5 psi and never goes above 6-6.5 psi til redline. Also noticed before that there was oil on the inside of the lower intake pipe (the turn on that faces towards the front of the car) when I took the air filter off. I think I found a good set of stock twins, wiring harness, and a stock ecu for some testing purposes for a decent price.
The car seems to pull pretty damn good casually driving around town it sits mid 14s to 15.1 afrs. Not to shabby. Also after beating it up a little bit....it decided it didn't want to smoke anymore during that session. Then I let it sit for a an hour or two while I was at a friends house then when I started it up it started smoking again. Pretty sure the oil seals are bad/going bad. Also there's a destint smell of oil when I was driving it around very similar to the T25 on the sr20det I had when that turbo decided to go. Another odd thing is my friend was standing behind the car with a flashlight on the exhaust as I was letting everything cool back down, and told me to rev it up to see if it smoked like it did in the garage. He said he seen hot burs like the ones that jump out of a fire leaving the exhaust. So that raises some concern
The car seems to pull pretty damn good casually driving around town it sits mid 14s to 15.1 afrs. Not to shabby. Also after beating it up a little bit....it decided it didn't want to smoke anymore during that session. Then I let it sit for a an hour or two while I was at a friends house then when I started it up it started smoking again. Pretty sure the oil seals are bad/going bad. Also there's a destint smell of oil when I was driving it around very similar to the T25 on the sr20det I had when that turbo decided to go. Another odd thing is my friend was standing behind the car with a flashlight on the exhaust as I was letting everything cool back down, and told me to rev it up to see if it smoked like it did in the garage. He said he seen hot burs like the ones that jump out of a fire leaving the exhaust. So that raises some concern
02-26-13, 09:07 PM
#39
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I just had a set of twins go bad on me, with very similar symptoms. I had oil in the intake pipe and the car would smoke from time to time with a very distinct smell of oil. The smell would start before I actually saw the smoke.
About what came out of the exhaust, do you mean you saw little sparks shooting out? I might be wrong, so someone correct me if I am, but if you have a DP and a HF cat or just a MP, its likely your car will shoot sparks out of the exhaust after a hard run. I've had it happen on my car before (actual flames shot out of my RB duals) after an hour drive through the mountains, all I had was a DP, HF cat and CB.
About what came out of the exhaust, do you mean you saw little sparks shooting out? I might be wrong, so someone correct me if I am, but if you have a DP and a HF cat or just a MP, its likely your car will shoot sparks out of the exhaust after a hard run. I've had it happen on my car before (actual flames shot out of my RB duals) after an hour drive through the mountains, all I had was a DP, HF cat and CB.
02-27-13, 01:38 AM
#40
I just had a set of twins go bad on me, with very similar symptoms. I had oil in the intake pipe and the car would smoke from time to time with a very distinct smell of oil. The smell would start before I actually saw the smoke.
About wha came out of the exhaust, do you mean you saw little sparks shooting out? I might be wrong, so someone correct me if I am, but if you have a DP and a HF cat or just a MP, its likely your car will shoot sparks out of the exhaust after a hard run. I've had it happen on my car before (actual flames shot out of my RB duals) after an hour drive through the mountains, all I had was a DP, HF cat and CB.
About wha came out of the exhaust, do you mean you saw little sparks shooting out? I might be wrong, so someone correct me if I am, but if you have a DP and a HF cat or just a MP, its likely your car will shoot sparks out of the exhaust after a hard run. I've had it happen on my car before (actual flames shot out of my RB duals) after an hour drive through the mountains, all I had was a DP, HF cat and CB.
03-01-13, 09:27 PM
#41
Sounds a little like the issue Im having, however today when I drove my car home from the shop (my shop) I got about 15 mins of driving after it warmed up and it died on my at a light, then a steady flame burned out of the exhaust for approx 3-5 seconds (just long enough for me to pull over and jump out to try and extinguish it) I let the car cool for a minute or two and was able to limp it home (about 3/4 of a mile). I am at a loss with mine as well, but I believe mine could have something to do with vacuums as well
04-04-13, 11:28 AM
#42
Alright so I had to wait for parts to show up and time to work on this. Currently the trans clutch and all that jazz is out. Just got the flywheel back from being turned as it was pretty screwed up. Now debating on replacing the turbos and wiring harness since I got em. Also discover a possible rear main seal leak, but the seal looks to be fully intact and good.... Which is strange. It'll get replaced as well. When I had the exhaust off the cat got gutted as well since my state doesn't have emissions testing. THANKFULLY.
Aaannnyyyways my friend was telling me there is an oil O-ring behind the rear main seal that could be leaking as well.... How true is this? I'd just pull it off and inspect it, but he stated the rear rotor could move out of "time" since theres a gear behind the 8 bolts that the rear main seal sits in. I'll be doing some looking on this but figured I'd ask in case I didn't find anything. Can't really do much more testing until I get the clutch trans and such back in, but again it seems the turbos are a little easier to get to with the trans out for the bottom bolts.
So progress slowed a LOT buuuut I think I'm getting there.
Aaannnyyyways my friend was telling me there is an oil O-ring behind the rear main seal that could be leaking as well.... How true is this? I'd just pull it off and inspect it, but he stated the rear rotor could move out of "time" since theres a gear behind the 8 bolts that the rear main seal sits in. I'll be doing some looking on this but figured I'd ask in case I didn't find anything. Can't really do much more testing until I get the clutch trans and such back in, but again it seems the turbos are a little easier to get to with the trans out for the bottom bolts.
So progress slowed a LOT buuuut I think I'm getting there.
04-04-13, 01:08 PM
#43
Let me ask a couple questions I came in late in the game so you might of answered them already
First is the 11/10 afr's at idle when the car is cold ? or at temp ?
second is the boost issues do you know if you removed any of the restrictor pills from the car ?
First is the 11/10 afr's at idle when the car is cold ? or at temp ?
second is the boost issues do you know if you removed any of the restrictor pills from the car ?
04-05-13, 11:08 AM
#44
2nd. I bought the car and one of the previous owners had changed most of the vacuum lines. So the "pills" im not sure where they should exactly be. I know where the check valves are supposed to be. Lol
04-05-13, 11:19 AM
#45
Well that controls when the waste-gate opens , and the the pre spool opens on the primary / secondary turbo . If that solonoid is bad it may be telling your waste gate to open up . before its supposed to . of if the pill is gone same deal .
the secondary turbo may basically be working off waste gate spring which is 7 psi
04-06-13, 12:13 PM
#46
They come out of the turbos , and head to the turbo control twin solenoids ( The twin solonoid thing that has 4 vacume hoses comming out of it it looks triangle ISH an. is on the front left of the upper intake manifold bolted on by 2 10 mm bolts , right behind the pressure tank . ) its in plain sight if you know what you're looking for haha ,
Well that controls when the waste-gate opens , and the the pre spool opens on the primary / secondary turbo . If that solonoid is bad it may be telling your waste gate to open up . before its supposed to . of if the pill is gone same deal .
the secondary turbo may basically be working off waste gate spring which is 7 psi
Well that controls when the waste-gate opens , and the the pre spool opens on the primary / secondary turbo . If that solonoid is bad it may be telling your waste gate to open up . before its supposed to . of if the pill is gone same deal .
the secondary turbo may basically be working off waste gate spring which is 7 psi
Going to see if anyone around here has a rear main seal while im here plus it looks as it that was leaking as well. Then get that damn pilot bearing out. Imma try the bread trick this weekend. Lol
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