93 BB Base Half-Bridge GT42R Project PART 3.....
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,800
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Damn dude, you might spend more time in the garage then me, and I'm working on customer cars in addition to my own 
Not sure if I missed it, but what brand toe links and trailing arms are those? Also, what's the deal with the long *** wheel studs?
Not sure if I missed it, but what brand toe links and trailing arms are those? Also, what's the deal with the long *** wheel studs?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
The toe links and trailing arms are megan racing. The Wheel studs are NHRA legal. I have to have them to run under an 11.49 along with my other safety crap.
HAHA V8
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
So was this swap just a bolt on procedure, if not what all do you need? I'm looking to do the same thing since i'm shooting for about 700, it'll probably be cheaper than building my FD rear end.
Last edited by rotorsownu; Mar 10, 2008 at 10:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
It was pretty much bolt on. There was some welding required but not that much. Youo will need an entire 03-04 cobra IRS rearend pullout and thene the custom bracing from Jimlab but good luck finding one because he doesnt make them anymore. After all that, you just need a custom set of half-shafts and a driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop. I already have all of the measurements posted in here so you could use this thread as a reference. All in all it cost me about $2300. That is mostly parts except I did pay an offroad Jeep shop to assemble my outer custom race CV's for me because I have never done that before and wanted it done right. So about the same price as a KAAZ setup but way, way stronger...... I hope. 
^ What?
So how do you like the rear end.
Also if any one is interested Samberg Rod & Custom has started making a newer version of jimlabs cobra cradle. I have one and it is very nice. High quality. There are a few threads about it over on V8rx7forums. And the drive shaft shop knows all the measurements for the axles. I think they might even stock them now.
So how do you like the rear end.
Also if any one is interested Samberg Rod & Custom has started making a newer version of jimlabs cobra cradle. I have one and it is very nice. High quality. There are a few threads about it over on V8rx7forums. And the drive shaft shop knows all the measurements for the axles. I think they might even stock them now.
HAHA V8
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
First you stole my HAHA V8 title, now you wanna steal my rearend??? It was pretty much bolt on. There was some welding required but not that much. Youo will need an entire 03-04 cobra IRS rearend pullout and thene the custom bracing from Jimlab but good luck finding one because he doesnt make them anymore. After all that, you just need a custom set of half-shafts and a driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop. I already have all of the measurements posted in here so you could use this thread as a reference. All in all it cost me about $2300. That is mostly parts except I did pay an offroad Jeep shop to assemble my outer custom race CV's for me because I have never done that before and wanted it done right. So about the same price as a KAAZ setup but way, way stronger...... I hope.
It was pretty much bolt on. There was some welding required but not that much. Youo will need an entire 03-04 cobra IRS rearend pullout and thene the custom bracing from Jimlab but good luck finding one because he doesnt make them anymore. After all that, you just need a custom set of half-shafts and a driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop. I already have all of the measurements posted in here so you could use this thread as a reference. All in all it cost me about $2300. That is mostly parts except I did pay an offroad Jeep shop to assemble my outer custom race CV's for me because I have never done that before and wanted it done right. So about the same price as a KAAZ setup but way, way stronger...... I hope. 
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
Out with the old and in with the new...... Steering wheel that is.
The above is a combination of the NRG Short Hub, NRG Quick Release Gen 2.5, and MOMO Team 300mm Competition steering wheel. I got the new steering wheel because I had NO clearance between the door bar on my roll cage and the stock sterring wheel. My knee literally wouldn't fit inbetween them. All three things were purchased from http://www.evasivemotorsports.com and it was $409 shipped. That was even cheaper than buying that stuff on EBAY. Quality parts and shop!!!
The above is a combination of the NRG Short Hub, NRG Quick Release Gen 2.5, and MOMO Team 300mm Competition steering wheel. I got the new steering wheel because I had NO clearance between the door bar on my roll cage and the stock sterring wheel. My knee literally wouldn't fit inbetween them. All three things were purchased from http://www.evasivemotorsports.com and it was $409 shipped. That was even cheaper than buying that stuff on EBAY. Quality parts and shop!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
I am getting the alignment done this coming weekend. Here are the specs that i am going for Drag Racing.
Alignment specs for drag racing:
Front: Very close to zero toe for minimal scrub. Camber 1.2 degrees negative. Caster maxed out for stability on the big end.
Rear: Zero toe with my solid bushings all around. Camber 1 degrees positive.***
***The stock double wishbone rear suspension squats during hard launches. This creates negative camber which keeps the rear tires from making full contact during a hard launch, when the car needs traction the most. The proper amount of positive camber must be dialed in when the car is at rest so that when the car launches, the tires are in full contact with the ground.***
Alignment specs for drag racing:
Front: Very close to zero toe for minimal scrub. Camber 1.2 degrees negative. Caster maxed out for stability on the big end.
Rear: Zero toe with my solid bushings all around. Camber 1 degrees positive.***
***The stock double wishbone rear suspension squats during hard launches. This creates negative camber which keeps the rear tires from making full contact during a hard launch, when the car needs traction the most. The proper amount of positive camber must be dialed in when the car is at rest so that when the car launches, the tires are in full contact with the ground.***
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
Well, I just got home 2 nights ago and finished up the beast. The wastegate lines were melted so I installed new ones and one of the plastic "T-s" were melted so I replaced that too. I had the car both front and rear aligned to my drag alignment specs and fixed a few little issues the car had from sitting since August 2007. The new 8.8" rearend is DOPE!!! There is NO WHEEL HOP WHATSOEVER. The car just squats and goes. Plus the 4.33s make the car feel like its on steroids!!! So this tuesday (May 6th) I am running her at Gateway International Raceway in Madison, IL (STL area) and finally getting a 10 second pass.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL