Here is the C16 tune.
More pics tomorrow.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/racing-kills-lounge-10/%5Bvid%5D-best-race-ever-gt42r-18psi-vs-monster-ls1-40-175mph-cops-clock-152mph-599836/
vid in there sumwhere

 

The torque curve is showing the boost creep.

 

Chrispeed, When I switch out my 35mm Tials for brand new 38mm Tials and the boost creep goes away, will the computer know what to do when it sees full boost much earlier in the RPM range? Does anyone know???

 

It will hit different cells that Steve probably didn't tune for because because they were never encountered on the dyno. He may have been able to make a guesstimate for those but an accurate tune.

 

Well this sucks, I dont know if he did that or not. I will be running my methanol injection all the time though. When he tuned my car on C16 my methanol injection was turned off so maybe this will save my motor when I put the new wastegates on.

 

Ok, well I sent Steve Kan a PM, asking him the $1,000,000 question. I will let you guys know what he says. I hope its good news.......

I also foud someone with an Air Intake Temperature Sensor connector pigtail. I got it for $15 so I will be replacing my busted *** one with this new one.

Also I ordered coolingmists M10 nozzle to replace the M5 I had on my car for the tune.

 

Well Steve pm'd me back saying that my midrange cells should be pretty close. Since I will be spraying more methanol I shouldn't detonate even if they are a little off. Also on C16, he said that I would have to go pretty lean in order to detonate so I should be fine as well!!!!!!!!!!!

 

DYNO DAY PICS!!!

 

More pics: and yes I know that the car was filthy. It was raining the entire day.

 

Few more:



My car's weight without me in it. This is including my heavy *** sub and about 5-6 gallons of gas in the tank.



Same as above but with me sitting in it.

 

I think that I found my wastegate boost creep problem. I will post pics later on that. We are working on it right now.

Oh and here is my car getting stripped for the roll cage install:



New RICER mod........

 

Well, I have been at home in STL all week because I had spring break at school. We took off the wastegates and checked the diaphrams. They both were intact but we saw 2 things. The wastegate on the front runner (the front rotor) had oil and grease all inside of it whereas the rear runner wastegate was bone dry. Also the front wastegate had a ripple in the diaphram where it seals inside of the wastegate. It looks like it got pinched when we changed the springs last time. Well we cleaned up the wastgate and fixed the dimple in the diaphram hoping it would help but it did NOT.

I then called Marco. He is the onwer of Magnus Motorsports in Canada and he also made my "kit." He wanted to know who I bought my turbo kit from because he only built about 10 kits and he said he didn't market them. I told him I got it from Paul and he knew who it was right away. Anyway I found out that my kit was made back in 1998! The turbo was like a one off because Garrett didn't make a GT42R back then. It came from a Catapillar engine off of a diesel truck. Then it was sent to Garrett to have the BB cartridge put in it. Also my GT42R is smaller than the current GT42R. I have the 72lb wheel whereas the newer ones have the 102lb wheel. Anyway he said with a half-bridge motor I am going to creep in the cold. He said the way he fixed it was by putting on 2 tial 44mm wastegates. So I guess I am going to put those on instead of putting 2 38mm wastegates on. The 38mm wastegates will only give me about 10% more flow so they might not fix the problem.

On friday it got up in the high 60s and the creep wasn't as bad. So I just dont have enough wastegate in the cold weather. Also I dropped the car off at Scott's house yesterday before I flew back to sunny FL to have my roll cage put in.

 

Scott's estimate was low so my dad is going to pick up the car tomorrow. I was estimated about $800-$1000 and I got an email this morning saying that it would be $1280 along with 8-10 hours of customizing my interior panels @ $35 an hour. Thats way too much so I have a big question.......

If I get the Krik Racing 4 point roll bar and have swing out door bars welded on, will it be NHRA and SCCA legal? This will basically turn it into a 6 point roll cage. Will this pass tech and be legal?????

 

as long as your mounting point has the 6x6 plate to support the bar, I think you should be okay. There is also a thickness requirement for certain material. YOu need to check on the material thickness before deciding on the cage. $1200 for a cage? that is a steal!! typically, it's around $2000-2500 for a NHRA legal cage.

 

If it's done right you'll be fine. If it's not done right, Big Al will sure enough kick your *** out. No ifs ands or buts.

 

Eric, I don't think that Kirk Racing makes the cage anymore that you bought long ago. Steve Burkett said that he could weld some removable door bars on but I don't know if this will pass tech. Waiting to hear back from Scott on his opinion about my idea.

 

Will he also wiggle his fat *** under my car to check for the scatter shield and driveshaft loop?

 

Scott and I worked out a little deal. He brought down the price of the cage and install for a little advertisement on my rear hatch glass. Things are going to work out after all.

 

Nope but he'll have someone else do it. I'm telling you, he's ruthless.

 

I know he is. The first time I went to Gateway this summer and I popped the hood he almost wouldn't let me run because of my turbo. He asked me what I was shooting for and I told him it was a show car and I was shooting for high 14s. He also tried to bust me on having no firejacket so I said I was shooting for 14s so he was like whatever. I will have everything safety wise before I hit the track this summer......... Well everything but my battery, but I got a plan for that. Can you say DUMMY FAKE BATTERY under the hood.

 

Here are some pics of my cage being built. We were originally going to go through the storage compartments in the hatch area, but decided that would be a bad idea. The bar cannot have any bends in it to be legal so to clearance the strut tower the rear bar would have to be welded down by the tail lights. This is bad because if I ever smack the wall with the rearend it would probably twist the chassis. So we are now going to have the rear bar connected to the rear strut bar. Here are some pics of what I am talking about.

 

Here are some new, updated cage pics.
Also my car will prolly go up for sale after I put the rearend in this May and make a few passes at the track.

 

Why are you selling it dude? I gotta hurry up and finish mine so we can cruise this summer.

 

Why in the hell would you go to all that trouble to build a badass car and then sell it