RotaryResurrection is correct. Based on my 10 years of building these engines I'd agree with him.

 

Well I took your advice, RR you were right on the money. What I did was replace the spark plugs just the leadings, and put 1 part mmo and 1part tranny fluid in each housing. After that the car started up easily. Now it starts up with little trouble, each time i start it the compression and idle keep getting just a little bit better. Right now it bonces a little bit vacuum is close to 10inches that has gotten a bit better too. I found a few pin size leaks one off my thermostat into the coolant, and then one hose needed to be tightened more. GOD I LUV THIS PLACE!

Thanks for the help!!! MUCH APPRECIATED

 

my idle and vacuum are all over the place is this normal?

 

Yes, just bump idle up around 1000-1300 and leave it there for a little while.

 

Explain "all over the place"...

 

When I do need to use oil to build up compression......... I use 2 cycle oil. Doesn't smoke as long as atf and does a fine job

 

my friend had a problem similar to yours. he got his engine rebuilt from a reputable local guy and when we installed it it just wouldnt start. we probably cranked it over 100 times and tried to push start it more than we care to remember. We knew everything was hooked up perfect, but the damn thing just wouldn't start. It did eventually start once and idled like crap for a few minutes then just died and wouldnt restart.

The next day while we were trying again he was in the car while i was watching the engine, and i noticed the main pulley coming off the front of the motor was turning a little lopsided. it would move around a bit as it would turn, kind of like a wobbly ceiling fan on high speed. The guy who built the engine messed up something behind the front plate of the motor upon re-assembly and it was causing the motor not to start. Luckily the engine builder fixed it for him without having to remove the engine, but they did have to remove the front plate which was a p.i.t.a.

anyway, watch your main pulley while you crank it. If it's not turning perfectly circular, you may have a re-assembly problem. If thats the case, PM me and I'll talk to my friend about what was the cause of his problems. (He's not usually on the forum so just PM me.)

 

That is the most odd thing I've ever heard of. I can think of no problem that would A) require removal of the front cover, while at the same time B) be fixable without tearing down the entire engine.

There isn't much that can make a crank pulley wobble other than a bent or worn e-shaft, and Im not sure how you fix that with the engine still in the car.

 

I had a similar problem come in the shop, what it amounts to is you/they crushed the front bearing behind the spacer the pully wont seat right and therefor triggers aren't seeing the wheel. If your good(which I am ) J/k you can remove the whole front cover and replace the bearing without having to pull the motor or the pan. Yes it can be done, and it can be done without a leaky pan.

 

Oh, I've seen many a front bearing/spacer stack be screwed up on a rebuild, but I dont see how that can cause a wobble like he stated. He didnt specify whether the car in question was an FD or not, but assuming it was, that makes perfect sense.

I've had to do a few front cover jobs in-car myself. They are no fun.

 

thats exactly what happened

 

But I loved you for it once you were done

 

No fun is right. I wasn't trying to sound cocky, I just have had people tell me it can't be done.

 

It bounces anywhere from 200rpms to 1100rpms the first couple minutes of start up. Then it goes to 500 or so to 1100rpms, still bounces though. My vacuum bounces from 6" to 10" thoughout. It also hesitates to rev up, it will slowly rev up to 2000rpms when pressing the accelerator, but the revs are getting better the more and more I start it, part of the breaking in I imagine?? Of course this is all at idle I have yet to drive the car. My temperatures are around 210-215 at idle, I am gonna check the fans today to insure they are operating. My engine is shaking a bit as well, but no unusual sounds, like before the rebuild in which it sounded like a broken record at times. Lots of smoke from the downpipe I'm guessing assembly lube, or its not completely tightened, its hard to get to so I'm leaning to both factors.

Also it is starting up without hesitation every time now, thanks to the good advice.

 

I know RR said the idle is okay, but I'm gonna bump it for the information above.

 

did you ever check the front main pulley for even/perfect circular rotation like i mentioned above? If it's spinning a little lopsided or uneven, you have a problem

 

Vacuum can be low when the engine is first started until seals seat...the sealing action is, after all, what creates vacuum, so the better the seal, the more vacuum. There are also other factors, such as port shape and timing, and idle speed/ISC duty. For now, bump it up to wherever it idles steady and leave it there for about a thousand miles. You should notice the vacuum rise a few inches in that time as well. A healthy stockport engine will normally pull 14-16" of vacuum at 800rpm idle, for a streetport a bit less is perfectly acceptable. Anytime your idle and ISC duty jumps up and down, your vacuum gauge will as well.

 

I haven't checked the pulley yet, really haven't been working on it or starting it since Tuesday. I'll check the pullies, but I'm pretty sure they are fine because I didn't notice anything unusual like that but I'll still keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks Rotary Ressurection that gives me more confidence about it. Tommorrow I'll be taking it for a test spin to see how things are holding up when its rolling, wish me luck guys! Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!