diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

1. check the ignition wiring (not just the plug wires, but also at the reluctor wheel, the coils, etc.)

2. try using colder plugs.

David0ff

iTrader: (6)

the coil to plug wires are new and within spec resistance wise ( 15000 k`ms old around )
9 heat range for my application is more than enough i think ... i mean i am still under 300 WHP ...

i am going to once again re verify my ground from the front harness to the engine block
and add another ground to that section

and besides ... if my car is preigniting .. my engine would have been toast long ago .. i would have blown all seals and both rotors ...

from what i gather ... it`s simply insufficient spark intensity

also when this happens my EGT halt from their ascent ..they also seem to lose 20-40 deg Celsius ...

in neutral .. stopped .. warmed up car :
if i floor it to red-line ... it will backfire and hesitate ~ 3-6 times a second around 6500 .. then continue to 8K .. and continue to rapidly ... backfire ( small pops ) .. around there and i have a could of semi brownish cloud of smoke

if i wind it around ( between 5k +) with up to 90% throttle .. it will slam it`s face against the red-line it goes up so fast and i can hold it at 8000 steady as idle .. so..my coils must be able to fire rapidly judging this behavior ... now if i nice again WOT ... it cant ... the spark is unable to combust the superabundance of fuel . ....

come to think of it this might date form the first timei rewired my fuel pumpto get full voltage .... now it`s rewired with a relay in the trunk ( where my battery is ) so it always gets batery voltage ( 13.8 )

David0ff

iTrader: (6)

UUUPPDATEEE ...


OK .. update .. my LC-1 Kit finally got released from customs ..
SO when i was welding the Wide-band Bung .. i found out my metallic cat was a lump of molten metal .. NEVER buy this .. and install it on an FD
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produc...916/index.html
and i was excited .. i thought FOR sure this is what is restricting flow

so Changes on the car
Walbro 255 , new separate wiring directly from the battery with relay .. switch etc
Wideband


SO ... ILDE ( 11xx ) .. A/F ... 10.6 ... when cold .. and when warm ... isnt this car supposed to change mixtures when it`s "warm" ...

~ 3000 RMP cruise .. 13.2-13.8 ....

WOT any RMP ... 10.5... .9.6 around 5000 .. then 10.2 all the way to redline this is on a 12-10-13 PSI boost pattern in 3rd ... with EGT`s in the 750`s Celsius


sometime i can reach redline ... some other times it will seem to pull all the timing out of the engine .. and the only way to "reset" this condition is to let it drop to idle .. then revmatch it back to whatever gear/sped i want ...

it it ever bogs ... i can WOT all i want .. the car will boost .. but almost no power .. after i reset ( see above ) .. i canrevit again til about ~6xxx

when the hesitation happens ... A/F.. dont seem affected ... ~10.0-.2

... will a bad thermosensor .. cause the car to always run in warmup mode?...making it pig ritch and oversuplying fuel ?.... i am still puzzled as to what causes this


thx

David0ff

iTrader: (6)

top...