5th gear synchro replacement
#1
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5th gear synchro replacement
I'm not sure if this is the right part of the forum, but can anyone tell me where a writeup for replacement of the 5th gear synchro might be? I figure there should be one already since so many people have a bad one. Thanks for the help.
#5
Urban Combat Vet
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LOL, reading through that link brings back memories. I was stressing over that so bad but another forum member made it seem so easy. And for a couple of weeks after, out of habit, I still continued to rev-match before shifting into 5th.
Ryan ("Poss") , if you read this, thanks again.
Ryan ("Poss") , if you read this, thanks again.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-06-05 at 07:50 PM.
#6
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Originally Posted by afgmoto1978
Keep in mind you will want to do first and second too while you have in open.
#7
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Originally Posted by speedjunkie
I also heard I'll need quite a few snap ring pliers. Thanks for all the help guys.
Also a good time to change out the front and rear transmission seals. They're cheap and easy to do.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
I think the most important thing is getting/making the extensions for the bearing puller. After that, IIRC, snap ring pliers and a punch set for the roll pins.
Also a good time to change out the front and rear transmission seals. They're cheap and easy to do.
Also a good time to change out the front and rear transmission seals. They're cheap and easy to do.
The only seal I have (well it's on the way from Malloy) is the rear main seal, and I also ordered a rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder. All this other stuff I'm hearing about is all new to me, but I'm taking it into consideration.
#9
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Also, does the shift select spindle come on the tranny already or where do I get that? And I didn't look close enough earlier to see what part he made for the bearing puller, now I see what part is custom. We have long ones at work, hopefully they're long enough if the hobby shop doesn't have them. And does anyone know how much tranny fluid it holds? I need to get some tomorrow.
#11
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Originally Posted by speedjunkie
Also, does the shift select spindle come on the tranny already or where do I get that?
Then again, the synchro also should have been upgraded too.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-09-05 at 11:22 AM.
#12
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Well, after further inspection today, and partly because I didn't have the bearing puller with the really long arms, I'm going to buy another transmission to put in and pull this one out a rebuild it, cause there was some other stuff messed up in there. So does anyone have a tranny their trying to get rid of, preferably a '94? Haha.
Also, after we got everything back together with the new clutch and everything installed, we rolled the car out of the bay and started it. There was what sounded like a bolt in the bell housing clanking around and the pedal went all the way to the floor, and alot of fluid pouring out the bottom of the car, so here's what we're thinking happened...the slave cylinder bolt wasn't lined up or just plain didn't engage the clutch fork assembly and shot out past it, dropping down into the bell housing and shooting fluid out of the slave cylinder. That conclusion takes into account all three problems. So Thursday when the shop opens back up I'm going in and taking the access plate off the bottom of the bell housing and feeling around for the slave cylinder bolt and putting it all back together and making sure the slave cylinder is making contact with the clutch fork. Just thought you guys might want to know to watch out for that. AntiVenom7 (here on the forums) was down to help me today since I'm still fairly a newb and he said he's never had that problem with the clutch changes he's done.
Also, after we got everything back together with the new clutch and everything installed, we rolled the car out of the bay and started it. There was what sounded like a bolt in the bell housing clanking around and the pedal went all the way to the floor, and alot of fluid pouring out the bottom of the car, so here's what we're thinking happened...the slave cylinder bolt wasn't lined up or just plain didn't engage the clutch fork assembly and shot out past it, dropping down into the bell housing and shooting fluid out of the slave cylinder. That conclusion takes into account all three problems. So Thursday when the shop opens back up I'm going in and taking the access plate off the bottom of the bell housing and feeling around for the slave cylinder bolt and putting it all back together and making sure the slave cylinder is making contact with the clutch fork. Just thought you guys might want to know to watch out for that. AntiVenom7 (here on the forums) was down to help me today since I'm still fairly a newb and he said he's never had that problem with the clutch changes he's done.
#13
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Originally Posted by speedjunkie
Also, after we got everything back together with the new clutch and everything installed, we rolled the car out of the bay and started it. There was what sounded like a bolt in the bell housing clanking around and the pedal went all the way to the floor, and alot of fluid pouring out the bottom of the car, so here's what we're thinking happened...the slave cylinder bolt wasn't lined up or just plain didn't engage the clutch fork assembly and shot out past it, dropping down into the bell housing and shooting fluid out of the slave cylinder. That conclusion takes into account all three problems.
Dave
#14
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Thanks for the info as well Sgtblue, I wasn't aware of that. The new synchro I got looks like it's brass and I thought the new ones were a bronze color. I'll have to look into that.
#15
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I agree with that conclusion. It's not hard to have the slave cylinder piston miss the arm of the clutch fork.
Dave
Dave
Also, for those of you that don't have the special tool to pull the pilot bearing, I checked out a tool from Autozone, it was a kit actually. It's called the "blind hole puller set". You may have to work with it a little but it does work. It costs $140 to rent it though, but you get it all back. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Hopefully I can get this beyatch up and running Thursday after the shop opens again.
#16
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When the slave cylinder is being installed, you'll notice the piston has some play in it. When you bolt it in, make sure the piston engages the pocket in the end of the clutch fork. It will not give you abnormal resistance if the piston is aligned to the side of the clutch fork - you have to make sure it's lined up right.
The new 5th synchros looks near the same as the old ones - you'll only see the color difference when they'r eboth cleaned off and sitting side by side.
Dave
The new 5th synchros looks near the same as the old ones - you'll only see the color difference when they'r eboth cleaned off and sitting side by side.
Dave
#17
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Oh I know the pocket you're talking about, I'll make sure to look for that tomorrow night when I try it again. That is if the bolt isn't too messed up to put back into the slave cylinder assembly without leaking or other complications.
I'm also wondering about cryotreating. Specifically, if cryotreating works on brake rotors, do you think you could make the gears in the tranny stronger or last longer by cryotreating them? Or many other parts on the car for that matter. I'm going to start a thread on this probably, but I'm going to check into it myself first. Thanks for the help dgeesaman.
I'm also wondering about cryotreating. Specifically, if cryotreating works on brake rotors, do you think you could make the gears in the tranny stronger or last longer by cryotreating them? Or many other parts on the car for that matter. I'm going to start a thread on this probably, but I'm going to check into it myself first. Thanks for the help dgeesaman.
#18
Call me gramps!
Originally Posted by speedjunkie
Oh I know the pocket you're talking about, I'll make sure to look for that tomorrow night when I try it again. That is if the bolt isn't too messed up to put back into the slave cylinder assembly without leaking or other complications.
I'm also wondering about cryotreating. Specifically, if cryotreating works on brake rotors, do you think you could make the gears in the tranny stronger or last longer by cryotreating them? Or many other parts on the car for that matter. I'm going to start a thread on this probably, but I'm going to check into it myself first. Thanks for the help dgeesaman.
I'm also wondering about cryotreating. Specifically, if cryotreating works on brake rotors, do you think you could make the gears in the tranny stronger or last longer by cryotreating them? Or many other parts on the car for that matter. I'm going to start a thread on this probably, but I'm going to check into it myself first. Thanks for the help dgeesaman.
#19
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Thanks for brining this up speedjunkie, i'm doing a full rebuild on my tranny next week. I have a company that sells stronger internals for the 7's tranny not cheap but here you go http://enonvativforce.com/close_gear.htm
#20
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Thanks Force13B, I love your FD, gorgeous man. I mentioned that in your thread, haha. I'll check out that site though.
Thanks WaLieN for your input too.
Now, for an update on the clutch/synchro job, although this is about the previous problem. We got the bolt out of the bell housing and it wasn't too beat up so we reassembled the slave cylinder and, while putting it back in, realized the T/O bearing wasn't staying latched in the pressure plate. We popped it back in and bled the slave cylinder, and as soon as there was more pressure the T/O bearing popped back out. Now, I KNOW I put the ring back in to keep the bearing latched in there, but it's still letting loose. Luckily I still have the old ring from the old clutch assembly, so I guess tomorrow I'll pull the tranny and put that one in there, unless I can get it on through the bottom access panel somehow. You are supposed to put it on the backside of the pressure plate right, the side that mates the disc with the flywheel? Doesn't the T/O bearing reach all the way through there? I believe that's the side I put it on before. Thanks in advance.
Thanks WaLieN for your input too.
Now, for an update on the clutch/synchro job, although this is about the previous problem. We got the bolt out of the bell housing and it wasn't too beat up so we reassembled the slave cylinder and, while putting it back in, realized the T/O bearing wasn't staying latched in the pressure plate. We popped it back in and bled the slave cylinder, and as soon as there was more pressure the T/O bearing popped back out. Now, I KNOW I put the ring back in to keep the bearing latched in there, but it's still letting loose. Luckily I still have the old ring from the old clutch assembly, so I guess tomorrow I'll pull the tranny and put that one in there, unless I can get it on through the bottom access panel somehow. You are supposed to put it on the backside of the pressure plate right, the side that mates the disc with the flywheel? Doesn't the T/O bearing reach all the way through there? I believe that's the side I put it on before. Thanks in advance.
#21
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Well I discovered the problem. When I put the ring on there (the one that keeps the T/O bearing from popping out), and before installing the tranny, I forgot to adjust the ring so that it was seated on the "teeth", making it able to catch the ridge on the T/O bearing. I just turned it with a screwdriver til it was seated right, put the tranny back in and worked like a charm. I was so pissed and so happy at the same time, haha.
BTW, I got a Racing Beat 6 puck sprung street/strip clutch disc, Racing Beat 12lb flywheel and ACT Extreme pressure plate. It's kinda hard to tell how it drives yet, still breaking it in. For the two months the car was down waiting for the parts and labor I think I forgot how to drive it cause it keeps stalling on me, haha.
BTW, I got a Racing Beat 6 puck sprung street/strip clutch disc, Racing Beat 12lb flywheel and ACT Extreme pressure plate. It's kinda hard to tell how it drives yet, still breaking it in. For the two months the car was down waiting for the parts and labor I think I forgot how to drive it cause it keeps stalling on me, haha.
#22
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welcome to the world of learning how to drive the car with a 6puck clutch. Ha Ha. Mine was the same, takes some getting used to, but i love it now..i also had a 9.5lb flywheel.hee hee
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