hey ..to all my 7 brother..
is 1993 FD clean title for 25500? too much .
this car have 400 hp and ''EVERYTHING'''under hood are bran new event all the hose and cluch.?
please give me some advise
thank you

 

more info is needed. i will say this...it's generally cheaper to buy a car that is already modded/upgraded than buying a stock one and buying the parts and paying for labor.

 

without knowing more, you know if you were to do it yourself, it'd be a lot more money. easily up to ~30k depending on the intitial price of the car.

 

I second that except it's not generally cheaper to buy a modded car, it IS cheaper to buy a modded car...I bought a stock 7 and am modding it now....The money I have in it now makes me think, "Damn, I could have a nice single turbo seven for this price that someone has already done all the hard work!" But then again, I would trade all the knowledge I have now from working on my 7 for anything.

Hope you make the right decision!

 

Either way, a "400hp rx7" isn't really that much since it's probably optimistic flywheel HP. That can be done with:
$200 boost controller
$500 basic port/rebuild
$100 K&N Filters
$800 full exhaust (this can be done for less)
$500 Clutch
Intercooler is suggested but not needed.
Throw in another $200 on hoses & plug wires, then a $12K purchase & you're only at $15K! Throw a T04E on it for $3K plus a $900 IC & you're still under $20K!

You really need to look at the details. Who built the motor? What was done & Used in it? How good & how old the paint? How old are the turbos? Are they the stock turbos? What mods are on it?

My math!
Eric.

 

add a ecu to your list $1.2k but you are still way under depending on the price of the car.

I have the mods in my sig, initial cost was $16,000 and I am pushing $30k but its well worth it

 

This is true considering you do all the work yourself.
I think there is like a 17% drivetrain loss so it's probably going to work out to be around 330rwhp. So after doing all the work yourself and then doing a 14 - 15psi run on the dyno, you'll probably get there...Good luck! Let us know how it works out!

Plus, what boost controler is $200? I need one and that price seems really inviting.


Later,
Me

 

I've seen used profec B's for less then that. But I guess $300 is a better estimate. Then again you could just go with the $7 needle valve...

Pettit chipped ECU's are inexpensive nowadays. In fact, If anyone needs a Pettit unlimited I know somebody who's willing to let hes go for $600 or so since he went with PFC+Datalogit...

 

As others have said, more info. is needed, but...I'm sitting at a little over $30K now and am making ~380rwhp.

That includes a rebuilt Pineapple street port and a pretty nice paint job among all the bolt-ons and peripherals.

Weigh your options and see what's been done, but it might not be a bad snag if you weren't planning on doing the work yourself.

-E

 

You are way off....I can't believe that is al you are planning to add to this. No ECU or Fuel System, that is an extremely cheap port job. Hopefully this car is not a DIY car that has been done as cheaply as possible. I mean my new setup has cost me tons.

Motor = $3800
Turbo Kit = $3600
Fuel System = $1600
ECU = $1300
Intercooler = $1300
plus all the other ****....exhaust, clutch, flywheel, boost controller, BOV, Radiator, AST, Gauges, ignition, etc....and then all the labor and tuning. I also just got my car repainted and a new front end put on it. I think a nicely done single turbo FD is worth that much at least. You have the lowest single turbo idea I have ever heard of. So depending on the mods and the condition of the car. I would say $25k is more than reasonable if it was built right and professionaly. If it was half *** put together and not complete then, NO, I would not pay that much. I know I would not sell you mine for $25k...more like $30k. But I will be going for 550rwhp later this month, so I can say I have a 600+hp car.

 

I did leave out the ECU, forgive me. Greddy 2-row FM IC's are only $950. The T04E is only $3K & one could be pieced together for less. To split a motor, port it & put it back together CAN cost as little as $500. If you wait until the motor blows then housings will triple the cost.

All that aside, you missed my point. I'm not saying the cheapest route is the best, I was just pointing out how cheap a "400hp RX-7" COULD be & that the extra money could be in the details. Just because the target car is touted as being "400hp" doesn't mean it's worth $25K.

 

You did leave out the fuel system as well. Of course certain parts can be had cheaper but for average priced parts it will cost more. And I am not talking about just refreshing a good motor, I am talking about getting a new street ported motor, which you should have with a larger single turbo unit. I can see where you are coming from, but in the real world, you cannot build a single turbo FD for $20k and have all the stuff you need. You can half *** it and get by, but why?

 

www.turboxs.com

hpbc=129
sbc=79
dsbc=239
hpdsbc=259

you dont need a dvd screen to control boost :P

 

I wouldn't own a Turbo XS product if it was given to me. For Boost Control, the best and cheapest one is the Greddy Profec B, hands down. No dvd screen either.

 

You're preaching to a guy who has less then 2K miles on brand new rotors, bearings, Ceramic apex seals, brand new rotor housings, all of the Racing beat recomended modifications, as well as Teflon Coolant O-rings & Viton Oil Control O-rings. My wallet went past $25K long ago!

The way I see it (and again the point I'm trying to make in this thread), if somebody knows they are building a car to sell they aren't going to put any money into the details that aren't visible. They'll do whatever they have to do to produce a 350hp Dyno sheet inexpensively, so don't just hand over money for horsepower.

 

I know...I am just trying to point out that this car may not be that cheaply done version that was built to sell. I know my car has well over $35k in it so far and it is still climbing each day...just trying to show both sides of this 400hp view. No offense to you.

Scott

 

If mostly everything is "new" as stated, that is a good price, considering the prices of stock FDs were creeping up on $40k toward the end of its US production run.

However, I must say that I would NEVER purchase a modded car of any kind without a thorough inspection from a rotary expert regarding the quality and workmanship of said mods.

The car could be about to blow up from everything being installed wrong.

 

Why would you say that? Just curious..

 

I'm curious too. My XS BOV seems to be working like a charm thus far.

-E

 

When somebody says they have a 400 hp 7, it's usually at the flywheel. Most of us on this forum talk in "rwhp" terms since flywheel means nothing to us...unless we are selling the car to the public. I understand about how a FD can be made fast for cheap - especially if your a decent mechanic - but I wouldn't buy a car like that. usually cars like that, the stock turbos may be pushing 350 rwhp, but they are being run at 15-16 psi to make that, and they are on their last legs. There's a lot of shitty 350 rwhp FDs out there with thrown together parts and half-assed tuning. I'll be selling my FD in a few weeks for $22K, excellent tuning, car is in great condition with 80K on body, 6K on streetported engine, 500 miles on new hybrid twins, car makes 380 rwhp sequentially.

 

if its rwhp and relibly (tuned) then sure, why not. People pay much more then that for crappy *** fwd cars hahaha with much less hp/performance (im thinking handling wise here)/styling!

 

personally I wouldnt want to buy a modded car because:
1) you are not exactly sure what was done to it
2)do not know quality of the workmanship on the installs
3)the whole process or modding it yourself and learning about your car in the process

just my thoughts