Buy this.. He already did all the work

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=re-amemiya

 

Heres the site to the rx7 im thinking about purchasing.


http://www.automotioncars.com/detail.cfm?ID=40764

 

Very well put.

So many people "know" what they are talking about it's laughable. It's a 94 which is a very desireable year, it's chaste white which increases that desirability even more, then it has average miles and from the sounds of it is pretty clean. You guys are making an assumption that the motor "needs" rebuilt, he could drive it for another 5 years before needing a rebuild, hell some people that buy cars with recent rebuilds need them within the month, instead of making idiotic blanket statements like "OOOOOH **** 70k, REBUILD TIME!!! OH NOES" why not tell him to look into the condition of the motor, maybe get a compression test, check for some common problems with the cars, etc etc.

Sounds like a good deal, if you want an FD this would be a worthwhile one to get, it will hold it's value a lot better than most and it sounds like it's in good shape. If you want one go test drive it, get some maintance things looked at (read the FAQ, it will help), and then make up your own mind if it's worth it to you or not.

 

Ok, I am not flaming you but I am going to encourage you to think some more about what you think you want to do..... If you really need to come on here and ask this general question about buying an FD, you need to do a LOT more reading before buying an FD. If you would read around in the 3rd Gen archives and just get lots of good info on the FD you would be able to ask more specific and much better questions to find out if this car is worth $17K.

Everyone has given pretty good advice to you in this thread, but really you need to take the car and have it compression tested before you really even consider buying it. That is the only good way to really know what condition the motor is in.

I think you have a lot more reading to do before jumping into an FD, but that is just my .02.....

 

I agree with the last comment, but I definetly think you can do better. Are you buying it from the dealership because you need the financing from them?

I looked on auto trader for 6 months before I got mine, which seems like a great deal compared to this (94 R2 vred 49k single turbo lots of good performance reliabilty mods for 14,900)

I understand you are CA which I'm sure changes the price

this is in North Carolina seems like a good deal to me (almost too good)

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...e=&cardist=193

good luck

 

Without interior or engine bay shots, that link doesnt do us all that much good.

 

70k is low milage. I have a chaste white touring as well. glass moon roof, leather seats, cruise control (i like the luxary stuff). You need to learn what to look for before judging the price. Compression check and look for bubbles in the coolant to see if the o-rings are bad. If it's a strong motor then it's possible to get another 30k+ miles on it, if not you can buy an extended warranty which is good untill 100k miles. Is that the one in long beach?

 

That's not a touring model. I'd say it's a PEP, maybe made in 93? It's missing the rear wiper and it does not have a glass moonroof. Anyhow, it's funny how people say an original motor is bad because a rebuild could go just as easy as mine did in 25k miles. I would rather have the original motor. Also note: a rebuilt or reman engine is not a new engine, nor does it mean anything else necessary was replaced because most likely only the block was touched and used parts would have been used.

 

You're correct about the 'rebuilt' part. Reman motors almost always come with new rotor housings, and within tolerance rotors, eshaft, and irons. A reman is definitely preferable to a rebuilt motor.

 

An extended warranty on a 13-year-old rotary with 70k miles? I'd be surprised if the warranty cost much less than the price of a rebuild.

 

You can get a warranty for $1k-$2k and a dealer installed engine replacement with a reman engine is about $5k and that does not include motor mounts, wire harness, rebuilding turbos, etc. The only problem is, if it goes at 101k (as mine did) then it's not covered as i'm not aware f them for more then 100k miles.

 

Where?

 

^ Sorry, I don't remembert he company name but it was offered by my credit union when I got the loan. Ask your bank if they can provide some companys for you to compare.

 

Yeah I agree with that. If the car has been sitting they'll probably just want it off the lot. They probably bought it for incredibly cheap. I say go in with 15 cash, tell them it's either that or you're walking away. Don't even give them play. Be firm--salesmen will play with your emotions. Go in there acting like/knowing that you know more than they do about these cars, and say 15 or nothing, and I bet they'll go for it. As others have said--if he can't provide a recent compression test, than get it done, and if all looks well, I'd say that's a pretty solid deal.

*disclaimer* I'm still a newbie here and with FD's, but I've been doing homework on these for a long while.


Much respect,
-Matt

 

Extended warranties usually have a rotary exclusion clause. Only a really clueless company would sell an extended warranty on a 13-year-old 75k mile FD for $1k.

 

highly debatable...

 

One more thing: you should bring a boost gauge, to verify that the sequential control system is working properly. If this is your first powerful car, you might not notice a boost issue just by the seat of your pants.

There are some great buyer's guides linked in the FAQ. In my opinion, this is the best one:
http://www.epinions.com/content_92709097092


-s-

 

How so? When you buy an FD with a claimed 'rebuilt' motor, that simply means they pulled it apart, installed new apex seals, and slapped it back together. The housings could have 100k on them, along with the rest of the internals. You have to assume the worst when buying a used car, anything more is a bonus.

Best case scenario, you buy a reman, break it apart to port it, verify that it has new rotor housings at a minimum and most likely other new components, re-clearance the seals, re-balance the assembly, and build it to spec.

 

Here here! The ONLY way to go, in my opinion.

 

That's not true, hurting a salesmans pride is a quick way to shut them off from giving you any sort of deal at all. They like to think they know everything and that they are smarter than everyone that walks through the door, you want to feed that ego by actnig the ignorant part but at the same time you want to keep asking questions that elude to you knowing more than you let on, this is a good way to let them know you mean business without insulting them by throwing facts everywhere. You do NOT want to go in acting like a know it all and make the salesman feel/look stupid, unless you've got one desperate to make commission you will basically garuntee he won't be willing to work with you on the price.

You do however want to make sure you have your finances in order and have a good game plan going in if you are going to try and barter on the price significantly. You do NOT want to finance through the dealership because then you lose a valuable bargaining tactic since they have a much better idea of a price you can or cannot afford.

 

I hope you have better luck than I did....my seals let go very easily

I now have a 3 mm motor built by one of the best guys in the Carolinas: RX-7 World

 

lol.....I think ALL FD owners pray in some way that their engines hold together, regardless of the amount of attention, care, and MONEY we've all spent!

There has to be some parallel to the old, "Their are no atheists in foxholes" adage.

 

I would never install a reman without at least taking it apart for careful inspection (and porting)

some are good, some are less than satisfactory, it's kind of a crap shoot, although QC has reportedly improved

for the price ray was selling new engines awhile ago, I would go that route...my factory engine was very robust and withstood a ton of abuse

 

I think we kind of agree on a lot of strategy actually. When I said go in acting like/knowing that you know more than them, I meant it more as a montra for him to remind himself not to let them manipulate him into thinking that he doesn't know what he's talking about. Like JHew said--salesmen have an ego, and they'll flex it if you let them walk with it and play ignorant for too long. Keep your credibility and stay strong. Go in with a set ammount of money (no need to be rude--I think my biterness towards car salesmen came out in my last post, haha), in fact be really nice with them--joke, talk about life, what-not, and maybe bring $500 of play money if they really need their ego's fed a little to go on with a deal. Anywho--JHew gave good advice--car salesmen are just tricky to deal with.


Much respect,
-Matt

 

The notion that bringing cash (or the equivalent) to a dealership somehow strengthens a buyer's bargaining position may have made sense decades ago but today the reverse is actually true.

Dealers actually make quite a bit of money on the financing - if you get a 9% loan from a dealer, they often make 1-2% on that financing. So they want you to finance with them.

Also, a buyer with a set amount of cash is not all that attractive to a dealer because they will not be able to 'upsell' to them. If $15k is all you have, then they will not be able to talk you into that $1500 warranty that they will give to you as a special favour for $1000 (even though it cost them $500). A let's not forget the $200 for window etching, etc.

And the idea that convincing the dealer that you know more about the car than they do will have some psychological effect is silliness. Dealers generally know very little about cars in any detail, and care even less. To them, it is a hunk of metal to be cleared from the lot as soon as possible for a reasonable profit. They know what profit that want at a particular point in time and the primary factor for them to lower their price is the amount of time the car is on the lot.