I never heard of that an engine will run greatly before it blows. The engine can withstand 386 rwhp just fine. Wait until next month when I dyno my T51R kai. I am aiming for 500 rwhp street power.

Next month I will be posting a lot of more dynosheets, there a few single turbo cars that I will be tuning:

1. Greddy T78 with stock engine
2. HKS T51R kai with racing beat street port
3. HKST51R kai with unknown street port.
4. APEX RX6 with racing beat street port

I will keep you guys updated.

Chuck Huang

 

Chuck....NICE NUMBERS !!! a seq. too...

Like my self....when the twins go "ka-boom" I'll replace with another set.....or.....BNRs.....Bryan?????? you hear me???

don't let the negative crap bug you...

Keep up the good work

 

1 kg/cm2 = 14.22 psi. So 1.15 kg/cm2 =16.35 psi
1 bar = 14.7 psi. Just in case you are wondering.

Chuck Huang

 

if nobody else says it. congrats to everyone who can "raise the bar" keep up the good work chuck, boostn7, bryan @ bnr, SPOAutos.. (recent ones)

 

Thank you. I will try my best. Still got a lot to learn.

Chuck Huang

 

I just want to point out a few things. When people post dyno numbers, they should also post the intake temp. For example, if the intake temp on this dynosheet was at 35C instead of 45C, for sure there is going to be about 15-20 rwhp increase. With the same concept, if the BNR can reduce the intake temp, it will get more power at the same boost level and if it can increase the flow of the turbo, it will also increase the power at the same boost level. It's the same concept that a single turbo running at the same boost will get more HP due to higher flow rate.

As for now, there is no info on the flow rate of the BNR. I didn't follow the whole BNR thread so I don't know if it comes with a new turbine wheel that has thicker shaft. From my experience, upgrade twins tends to have bend turbine shaft due to the extra weight on the upgrade compressor wheel if you run high boost.

If the BNR has the following, it's worth getting:

1. higher flow compressor wheel
2. new turbine with thicker turbine shaft
3. better bearing that will make the turbo spool up faster
4. last longer than stock twins

I think the limit of the stock twins either upgraded or not, is not how much it can flow but how well the exhaust flows out. The exhaust flowing out of the turbos are running against each other. That's going to create back pressure. The turbine housing can't be changed either. There is no way you can increase the exhaust flow capacity by changing to a different a/r turbine housing. The only thing you can do is by clipping the turbine wheels but you can only clip so much.

The twins are still good for 400 rwhp but if you want high 400 rwhp or beyond that, I don't think the stock twins either upgraded or not can do it.

Chuck Huang

 

Sorry for the wrong conversion. Here are the correct ones that you will ever need.

1 kg/cm2 = 14.22 psi
1 bar = 14.49 psi (not 14.70 as posted)
1 atm = 14.70 psi

Chuck

 

Thanks for adding it to your website but the boost level is wrong. It's done at 16.3 psi, not 19 psi. Haven't tried 19 psi yet.

Chuck Huang

 

ttb,

The HKS Twin Power is an ignition amp that gives you a hotter, longer spark that ensures a more complete burn.

I have one and it was a very noticable gain in "butt dyno" hp...

They cost about $300-425 bucks and install in 15 mins. w/ the rotary harness.

~ John

 

>>The dynosheet shows the a/f. At some of the runs, the a/f at rpm looks lean like crazy but it's not. The o2 sensor at the tail pipe blows off during the run. The car is still running rich. The boost level is 1.15 kg/cm2 and the intake temp is at 45C measured by power fc.<<

>>Thanks for adding it to your website but the boost level is wrong. It's done at 16.3 psi, not 19 psi. Haven't tried 19 psi yet. <<

Chuch: Did you monitor the boost with another gauge??
I just realized your guiding yourself with the PowerFc boost readings!!!!!
those reading are always on the low side.......to give you an idea...I was running 1.12-1.14kg/cm2.

After 1.15kg/cm2 map sensor is maxed and it will not register anymore.....so you could be running for example:20 psi or higher and still read 1.15kg/cm2

I tried higher boost...~19psi and PowerFC shoewed 1.15kg all across 'till I lifted....injectors maxed

 

Chuck,

Sorry, the "6" and "9" are right next to each other on the keypad It's "16" now.

Brian

 

Wargasm...Chuck...read my last post...

His 1.15kg/cm2 on PowerFC was about the same boost as my car.

MY powerFC registered 1.12-1.14kg/cm2 on those last dyno runs......and I know I did not run 16psi.

 

Actually the power fc reading on my version (2.0) maxed out at 1.2 kg/cm2. I learned it the hard way like I always did. One time after I finished my car, I forgot to attach the wastegate hose back and I full throttled it, the boost was going up to 1.7kg/cm2 according to my other boost gauge but the commander showed 1.2 kg/cm2. Of course the engine blew up but it was hella fast for like 2-3 sec. I had the T51r Kai turbo on the car when that happened.

We also monitor the boost with the EVC IV, it showed 1.15 kg/cm2 as well.

I guess the power fc's max boost reading is between 1.15 to 1.2 kg/cm2 among different versions.

That's why I told my friend to get the 3 bar map sensor before we try the 1.35 kg/cm2 run.

Thanks for looking out for me.

Chuck Huang

 

Hey Wargasm,
Can you fix Stephen's (SPO's) low end numbers???

 

nice numbers~

 

Maybe I missed it ... What apex seals is he running??

 

2mm ceramic. You can get the same result with 2mm stock seal as well. Maybe more HP with the stock seal because it seals better and you will have more compression on the motor.

Chuck Huang

 

havent we seen 400whp out of teh stock twins? i think u have some more power to find
good work, nice to see high powered sequential car.
watch that intake temp with stockers at that boost level..

 

how do u get RPM readins on dyno? My dyno tech can't figure it out.... we tried couple thing but doesn't read correct rpm.

 

The dyno place has two rpm pick up clips to clamp onto the spark plug wires. Clamp them onto the leading wires. Sometimes you get signal and sometimes you don't. It all depends on luck.

Chuck Huang

 

yea we tried that and it didn't gave us right reading...

 

I had problems with getting signal, usually at higher rpm we would get severe loss of signal or break up. We remedied the situation though by hooking the pickup around the bundle of wires coming from the ignitor under the cruise control module. Just sitting in the open on cars not equipped with cruise. Just clip the whole bundle of wires and you'll get a good signal with little or no interference from the other wires!
Art

 

Hell yeah

 

are those numbers on race gas or 91 octane? very impressive nevertheless congrats on the guy who owns the car

 

I had better luck by connecting the dyno rpm pick up clip on trailing 1 wire....and need to change setting to 360 degrees