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However, car is single turbo, I've got 3 other sports cars, plenty of responsibilities job-wise, exams to study... So I forgot lots of things. Can you guys help me a little bit?
1. I tried to look for a "coolant diagram", without success. I know these 2 don't go together. Where do I connect them?
2. Does it go to the oil filler neck?
3 and 4. Do I have to connect these 2 together? It is a single turbo setup as you can see.
5 (no picture). 4 electrical connectors go to transmission (manual), however I only found 3. Where is hidden the 4th one?
1. I tried to look for a "coolant diagram", without success. I know these 2 don't go together. Where do I connect them?
What 2?
Originally Posted by MuRCieLaGo
2. Does it go to the oil filler neck?
That's the emissions purge tank. It gas/gas vapor and goes to the TB via the purge control solenoid. See vac diag (callled "catch tank"). Also, are you connecting anything to the AI nozzle on the compression elbow. If not, you should plug it
Originally Posted by MuRCieLaGo
3 and 4. Do I have to connect these 2 together? It is a single turbo setup as you can see.
What 2
Originally Posted by MuRCieLaGo
5 (no picture). 4 electrical connectors go to transmission (manual), however I only found 3. Where is hidden the 4th one?
The clutch switch is on top of the transmission and not visible when the transmission is installed. Make sure that one is connected
Good ok thanks!
Originally Posted by TomU
What 2?
That's the emissions purge tank. It gas/gas vapor and goes to the TB via the purge control solenoid. See vac diag (callled "catch tank"). Also, are you connecting anything to the AI nozzle on the compression elbow. If not, you should plug it
What 2
It's hidden, duh
More specifics are needed
Alright, main concern is 3 & 4 now. I'm wondering if they should go together...
1. Hose coming off the thermostat cover goes to the overflow tank.
The hose you have circled by the throttle body goes to the nipple on top of the rear iron.
2.Charcoal canister. Goes to the purge solenoid which should be behind the alternator, and then to the upper intake manifold via a check valve. You can vent it it but may smell fuel. You don't need the solenoid as its only for emissions but you need a check valve so boost doesn't pressurize the canister.
3. That is the oil feel line to the turbo. It looks to be in poor shape so I would replace it. It goes to the stock oil feed location on the front iron. The other open port on the side of the motor is for the factory coolant gauge sensor. Its missing and there looks to be an adapter there for an aftermarket gauge. Wire comes off the engine harness near the ground under the coils.
4. Oil pressure sender. Its connector comes off the starter harness. The coolant hose underneath it will leak with the stock clamp as you are missing the plastic extension nipple.
I see a lot of coolant hoses is poor condition that should be replaced and the vacuum caps you have on unused coolant ports will fail over time. The nipples should be removed and either welded shut (difficult to do on the car) or tapped for npt plugs.
You don't have an airpump or aux idler pulley. The water pump will 100% slip like that due to poor belt contact.
Last edited by IRPerformance; Mar 28, 2019 at 02:54 PM.
- The heater hose on the back side of the engine under the oil filter is just clamped to the block. It's supposed to have a quick connect on the block with the hose clamped to it.
Yes, you can just clamp the hose on the block, but it doesn't fit right. Also when you change the filter oil will drip on the plastic quick connect which is no big deal. Oil on rubber coolant hose will weaken and kill it over time. Also that hose is shot, that needs to be replaced.
FYI some of the RHD heater hoses are different than US hoses. I think someone has documented part numbers or where to get them. If you can get a part number amayama.com will have them.
The vacuum hose to the blow off valve is REALLY close to the hot side of the turbo. That needs to be run neater. If that touches the turbine housing it will melt a hole in the hose. Also you really should be using better hose than that.
You're getting there! Take time on these small things, these are all things that will bite you in the *** if you don't address them.
1. Hose coming off the thermostat cover goes to the overflow tank.
The hose you have circled by the throttle body goes to the nipple on top of the rear iron.
2.Charcoal canister. Goes to the purge solenoid which should be behind the alternator, and then to the upper intake manifold via a check valve. You can vent it it but may smell fuel. You don't need the solenoid as its only for emissions but you need a check valve so boost doesn't pressurize the canister.
3. That is the oil feel line to the turbo. It looks to be in poor shape so I would replace it. It goes to the stock oil feed location on the front iron. The other open port on the side of the motor is for the factory coolant gauge sensor. Its missing and there looks to be an adapter there for an aftermarket gauge. Wire comes off the engine harness near the ground under the coils.
4. Oil pressure sender. Its connector comes off the starter harness. The coolant hose underneath it will leak with the stock clamp as you are missing the plastic extension nipple.
I see a lot of coolant hoses is poor condition that should be replaced and the vacuum caps you have on unused coolant ports will fail over time. The nipples should be removed and either welded shut (difficult to do on the car) or tapped for npt plugs.
You don't have an airpump or aux idler pulley. The water pump will 100% slip like that due to poor belt contact.
1. I'm still trying to figure out where goes the hose from thermostat cover. Supposed to go to overflow tank, however there is no nipple that goes there (overflow tank is at extreme right front side). Picture #5
2. Okay! Would I be ok to directly connect it to the (upper) hose that I've got in my hand (picture #6)? Return goes directly to UIM?
3. I cannot find any location from front iron. Front iron, right side, there is a port that goes to oil coolers lines and that's about it I think. Thanks for the heads up about coolant temperature gauge sensor!
4. OK great!!! This is solved!
How can I fix the problem regarding slipping water pump? I used the belt everybody advised to use on this forum.
Thanks a lot, you really helped me there!
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Ihor is on point. Few other things -
- The heater hose on the back side of the engine under the oil filter is just clamped to the block. It's supposed to have a quick connect on the block with the hose clamped to it.
Yes, you can just clamp the hose on the block, but it doesn't fit right. Also when you change the filter oil will drip on the plastic quick connect which is no big deal. Oil on rubber coolant hose will weaken and kill it over time. Also that hose is shot, that needs to be replaced.
FYI some of the RHD heater hoses are different than US hoses. I think someone has documented part numbers or where to get them. If you can get a part number amayama.com will have them.
The vacuum hose to the blow off valve is REALLY close to the hot side of the turbo. That needs to be run neater. If that touches the turbine housing it will melt a hole in the hose. Also you really should be using better hose than that.
You're getting there! Take time on these small things, these are all things that will bite you in the *** if you don't address them.
Dale
Thanks a lot for the nice words! To be honest I simply want to get the engine in running condition, to see if anything is wrong with it. For example, vacuum hose near turbo will be fixed for sure before I hit the streets. I already got a spare of what you linked to Atkins' website, I will look for it in a near future!
The overflow tank on the US passenger side of the car has a fitting on top of the *tank* that the hose connects to. It's not on the fill neck for the tank. The nipple from the thermostat housing just under the radiator cap has to go to the overflow tank. Coolant expands, it pushes coolant into the tank, when it cools and contracts it sucks coolant back.
That green/white check valve on a vacuum hose is probably nothing you need if you are single turbo. The check valves are only there for the sequential system and emissions. Find a single turbo vacuum diagram, most of the nipples on the UIM I imagine can be blocked off.
The overflow tank on the US passenger side of the car has a fitting on top of the *tank* that the hose connects to. It's not on the fill neck for the tank. The nipple from the thermostat housing just under the radiator cap has to go to the overflow tank. Coolant expands, it pushes coolant into the tank, when it cools and contracts it sucks coolant back.
That green/white check valve on a vacuum hose is probably nothing you need if you are single turbo. The check valves are only there for the sequential system and emissions. Find a single turbo vacuum diagram, most of the nipples on the UIM I imagine can be blocked off.
Dale
Alright, coolant circuit is completed! I did not worry about vacuum diagram yet, I guess the car can be started without all those hoses connected anyway (only 1 or 2 vacuum lines are left open). MAP sensor line is connected of course.
Engine was started for about 60 seconds, then stalled. Won't start again now, even when I unflood it. I've got spark, fuel, and compression is good. I'm guessing 3 years old premix gas could be the issue, so I drained the tank. Brand new gas coming in this afternoon. I hope it was the problem, draining 60L of gas is not fun.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; Mar 31, 2019 at 09:07 AM.
It’s possible all the flooding made the motor dry. Try adding a cap of oil to each housing to restore compression. I like to use regular motor oil for this.
