20b fd3s swap starts....
03-09-17, 02:23 AM
#1
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20b fd3s swap starts....
Hi guys, I'm starting the new project for racing streetable car, Fd3s rhd that I'm converting lhd with 20b engine swap
now I'm looking for all the programmable ecu and wiring loom, is there someone who has already done it?
about ecu haltec? adaptronic?.... i'l looking for the complete engine managment ready to fit on the car (ecu wiring coils)
now some engine specs
I've a 20b d series with 20k miles on it....
working points on engine:
- rebuild with unbreakable apex and reinforced oring
- oil pan delete, my intention is to build a plate with a a tube int the pickup line that goes to an external canister for the oil like dry sump, and some sucking tubes in the plate linked to an electric oil pump that pumps oil inside the external tank
- fd front cover
- single turbo with watercooled intercooler
- 850 and 1650cc injectors
- electric water pump
- twin plate carbon clutch
- transmission, custom sequential 7 speed with spark cut
- frame reinforcement all bushings made of derlin, powerplant frame reinforced, and some bridges on the floor near tranny tunnel
now I'm looking for all the programmable ecu and wiring loom, is there someone who has already done it?
about ecu haltec? adaptronic?.... i'l looking for the complete engine managment ready to fit on the car (ecu wiring coils)
now some engine specs
I've a 20b d series with 20k miles on it....
working points on engine:
- rebuild with unbreakable apex and reinforced oring
- oil pan delete, my intention is to build a plate with a a tube int the pickup line that goes to an external canister for the oil like dry sump, and some sucking tubes in the plate linked to an electric oil pump that pumps oil inside the external tank
- fd front cover
- single turbo with watercooled intercooler
- 850 and 1650cc injectors
- electric water pump
- twin plate carbon clutch
- transmission, custom sequential 7 speed with spark cut
- frame reinforcement all bushings made of derlin, powerplant frame reinforced, and some bridges on the floor near tranny tunnel
03-09-17, 09:38 AM
#2
Sounds like a pretty serious build. I strongly recommend going with a Haltech. The new Elite series are very nice. LMS-EFI can build you a plug and play harness. We are a dealer for both the ecu and harness if you need help setting it up. I'm building a 20b car for a customer now and we went with an Elite 2500.
For anything making any power, I use RX Parts apex seals. I have them in everything from mildly modified to 700hp+ race cars. They are super strong, yet do not trash the rotor housings or warp easily like some other seals. In fact I have a customer with a set that did an entire season of drag passes on oil metering only (no premix). The motor was disassembled for inspection and the rotor housings were in excellent condition. I have yet to hear of anyone breaking a set of these seals.
For the injector setup, sizing is going to be determined by your power goals. I would use Injector Dynamics for your application.
A carbon clutch isn't really intended for street driving. They need to get hot to grip and wear out prematurely in stop and go driving. Again, how you intend to use the car would dictate which clutch to use.
I do not recommend delrin bushings for the suspension. A bunch of us ran them years back including myself and found that under track use they get hot and begin to pop and bind. They also do away with the rear steer geometry engineered into the suspension. I recommend Superpro or Powerflex polyurethane bushings for the suspension. They come in several grades depending how firm you want it. The rear pillow ***** should be replaced with either Mazda oem or the billet pillowballs from J-auto. These are a bit cheaper and we've had good results with them. The rear lower inner control arm bushing should be replaced with oem or the Mazdcomp version to retain proper geometry. For the toe links and trailing arms either the Mazdacomp bushings or go with aftermarket links with spherical bearings. These do wear out faster though. We are also a dealer for all of this. Good luck with the build.
For anything making any power, I use RX Parts apex seals. I have them in everything from mildly modified to 700hp+ race cars. They are super strong, yet do not trash the rotor housings or warp easily like some other seals. In fact I have a customer with a set that did an entire season of drag passes on oil metering only (no premix). The motor was disassembled for inspection and the rotor housings were in excellent condition. I have yet to hear of anyone breaking a set of these seals.
For the injector setup, sizing is going to be determined by your power goals. I would use Injector Dynamics for your application.
A carbon clutch isn't really intended for street driving. They need to get hot to grip and wear out prematurely in stop and go driving. Again, how you intend to use the car would dictate which clutch to use.
I do not recommend delrin bushings for the suspension. A bunch of us ran them years back including myself and found that under track use they get hot and begin to pop and bind. They also do away with the rear steer geometry engineered into the suspension. I recommend Superpro or Powerflex polyurethane bushings for the suspension. They come in several grades depending how firm you want it. The rear pillow ***** should be replaced with either Mazda oem or the billet pillowballs from J-auto. These are a bit cheaper and we've had good results with them. The rear lower inner control arm bushing should be replaced with oem or the Mazdcomp version to retain proper geometry. For the toe links and trailing arms either the Mazdacomp bushings or go with aftermarket links with spherical bearings. These do wear out faster though. We are also a dealer for all of this. Good luck with the build.