jsesq

Now that all the US cars are basically 20 years old, are there any long-term maintenance items that we should be addressing? I'm thinking about things that wouldn't fall under regular maintenance such as replacing fuel lines.

Any thoughts on this? Known long-term failure points?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Basically, anything composed of rubber should be on the short list to examine/replace (fluid lines, bushings, etc).

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Probably ought to explicitly call out the Fuel Pulsation Damper, it is a potential fire hazard.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

there are so many short term ones, its probably not needed?

a really thorough inspection should be done at least once a year, you're looking at things like brake lines and hoses, fuel lines and hoses. rust. its possible to actually measure the ball joint wear, along with the pillow *****. the bumpstops should be on the list.

there are a bunch of underbody panels, that have a lot of clips and screws, are they all there?

the cooling system is critical, at some point replacing all of the hoses is a good idea, although on an FD it might have been done once or twice already.

oil leaks. i'd imagine the average enthusiast owned FD would have pretty clean fluids, but they can be changed by time, and not mileage. all the filters, and probably the fuel sock in the tank, if it hasn't been done.

the clutch and brake pedal freeplay, throttle cable condition and freeplay, etc etc

most of this is in the shop manual, and in order, there is a section in the front.

SA3R

Mine is a 1992 JDM imported car, so 22 years old in September just gone.

Nothing has failed apart from the small bolts that hold the heat shields on the side of the twin turbos had their heads rust off and the heat shields fell off. Jammed the steering uni joint, which was scary. You guys will never have to worry about that, your steering is on the opposite side!

Other failure item was the coolant temp sensor.


Preventative maintenance saw me replace quite a lot. There is more though, if you're absolutely OCD. Most things at this age will reward you for simply checking them.

both radiator hoses replaced on my car
radiator replaced on my car
hard brake lines under the car I replaced
AST tank for alloy tank on my car
I removed fuel pump from tank and replaced sock, checked tank was clean inside
I took out nasty green factory check valves in the rats nest upgraded to Dale Clark's viton valves
suspension already replaced with Tein coilovers on my car
all other diff bushes/subframe bushes/soft bushes replaced on my car
fuel filter replaced on my car
diff side seals not leaking?
diff atmosphere vent not clogged?
master cylinder reservoir cap, replaced on my car
additional earth straps to engine earth bolt on my car
Replaced all fuel lines on my car, hard and soft.
dashboard demister vents cracked up- replaced with new on my car
all bulbs changed out and refreshed on my car
power steering fluid drained and refreshed, neodymium magnet added to catch wear particles
engine coolant flush once a year, must use inhibitor to prevent corrosion of water seals.
Wheel bearings renewed on my car
grease & lube door locks and locking mechanisms & hinges
disassemble drivers power window switch, clean carbon off contacts
If Bose car, check amp and wiring for any burn or heat marks or evidence
check for rust-particularly behind both bumpers and under side skirts, rear hatch area
(check sunroof drains if equipped, are not blocked)
auto trans gets fluid change and a new filter & band adjustments while pan off
Manual trans fluid dump/renew
UIM to LIM gasket renewed on my car.
throttle body O ring renewed on my car
all rubber boost couplers exchanged for silicone couplers on my car
boost leak test of system on my car
Car up on hoist, check all underbody panels & stiffeners for any damage
Check exhaust hanger rubbers
Ball joints renewed on my car
check that headlight electrical looms not being pinched/chafed by flip up/down action of lights
Wheel alignment if needed
swaybar bushes and mounts all ok?
turn side view mirrors to expose attaching screw heads. Address corrosion or protect.
Check for corrosion/leaks around rear spoiler attaching holes in rear hatch
Brake pads?
Rotors?
Brake caliper piston seals?
Brake master cylinder internal seals?
brake fluid renewed every 12 months?
infernal oil pressure sender on block operating ok?
engine oil changed & healthy?
spark plugs not overdue?
replaced spark plug wires for new OEM on my car
knock sensor on block not visually damaged?
All electrical works, no warning lights or faulty circuits?
Test voltage output of alternator
battery terminals check- positive terminal available new, same as Nissan 370Z part.
No rubbing damage to front plastic wheel well fender liners?
Compression test.
Boost operation test.

If you can satisfy that sort of list, and at least eyeball and be sure that nothing is overdue or overlooked or glaringly wrong or requires rectification, you've got a good car that will not let you down.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

After fixing some moderate rust on my rear fender directly behind the passenger wheel, I am wondering if some rust preventative would have helped. I'm talking about cavity wax which has the long extension tube and never dries out. Basically cosmolene for the inside of a frame/subframe/unibody.

I got a can of SEM rust preventer with the extension hose and popped all obvious body plugs out and blasted the inside with the stuff after taking care of the rust. I was able to get the hose over the rear wheel arches inside the body cavity where my rust spots originated. Hopefully that will prevent a repeat in the future, but I wish I had done it when I got the car.