2 questions.... FC Coils and OMP signal
#1
2 questions.... FC Coils and OMP signal
I'm looking into putting an rew into my 1st gen.
I need to know what all is needed to run fc coils and cas. Does this work with the stock ecu? Is it simple as cutting the connectors and attaching the fc connectors? I've looked at the wiring diagrams and it seems like that's all it would take.
And as for the omp...what kind of signal goes back to the ecu? Is it a voltage, resistance, does it count the rpm??
I'm not wanting a race motor so the extra $1000 for a power fc isn't really worth it to me. If it can't be done with out going stand alone I'll just go back to a t2 motor.
Any help would be appreciated. thanks.
I need to know what all is needed to run fc coils and cas. Does this work with the stock ecu? Is it simple as cutting the connectors and attaching the fc connectors? I've looked at the wiring diagrams and it seems like that's all it would take.
And as for the omp...what kind of signal goes back to the ecu? Is it a voltage, resistance, does it count the rpm??
I'm not wanting a race motor so the extra $1000 for a power fc isn't really worth it to me. If it can't be done with out going stand alone I'll just go back to a t2 motor.
Any help would be appreciated. thanks.
#2
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
It sounds you should stay with the T2 motor. The FD has a separate ignitor box while the T2 coils have them integrated and uses the a square wave "select" signal to toggle between front and rear trailing ignition. You would need to wire up two FC trailing coils just like Banzai Racing's writeup in order to use FC trailing coils with the FD stock ECU (or use an FD igniter box). And then you would need a resistors for all the emissions solenoids otherwise you'll throw codes.
The s6 OMP has a position sensor and a stepper motor, you can download the service highlights and workshop manual to read more. The FC and FD have the same CAS signal--FD CAS is mounted to the pulley with 1 pin for the TDC/"G" signal and 12 slots for the eshaft speed/"Ne" signal. FC CAS is a drop-in deal like a dizzy with 2 G signal teeth and 24 Ne signal teeth, but the final signal is the same due to the speed at which the FD CAS turns.
What you are proposing sounds like a big pain in the *** that won't really be worth the trouble. Keep in mind that there is no Rtek equivalent to reprogram the FD ECU so with enough mods you may have a lean condition (FD only has a MAP sensor so stock ECU can't respond well to engine mods). Best solution for an REW would be to go standalone with a flying lead harness (Haltech etc). In your situation I'd get an S4 T2 keg and s4 electronics (not sure what harness would be easiest to use) and go from there. Then you can use the s4 mechanical OMP, CAS, coilpacks, etc. You can use a stage 1 or stage 2 Rtek chip for engine management and a stock turbo or small hybrid. That would be plenty quick on such a light car.
The s6 OMP has a position sensor and a stepper motor, you can download the service highlights and workshop manual to read more. The FC and FD have the same CAS signal--FD CAS is mounted to the pulley with 1 pin for the TDC/"G" signal and 12 slots for the eshaft speed/"Ne" signal. FC CAS is a drop-in deal like a dizzy with 2 G signal teeth and 24 Ne signal teeth, but the final signal is the same due to the speed at which the FD CAS turns.
What you are proposing sounds like a big pain in the *** that won't really be worth the trouble. Keep in mind that there is no Rtek equivalent to reprogram the FD ECU so with enough mods you may have a lean condition (FD only has a MAP sensor so stock ECU can't respond well to engine mods). Best solution for an REW would be to go standalone with a flying lead harness (Haltech etc). In your situation I'd get an S4 T2 keg and s4 electronics (not sure what harness would be easiest to use) and go from there. Then you can use the s4 mechanical OMP, CAS, coilpacks, etc. You can use a stage 1 or stage 2 Rtek chip for engine management and a stock turbo or small hybrid. That would be plenty quick on such a light car.
#5
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
well the front cover is different between the two engines (no place to put an FC CAS on an REW front cover), so you've got oil pan issues iirc. The engine mounts and oil pan changed between FB, FC, and FD.
The FC CAS basic signal is the same as the FD's. That's why the FD Power FC works in the FC without any CAS modification. But the firing of the trailing ignition is controlled differently. I'm not sure what potential problem areas or fault codes you would have if you tried to use all this FC stuff on a stock FD ECU. The stock computer may still not like it. And there's still the problem of the stock FD ECU not being very tolerant of mods. If you put an aftermarket exhaust on it you are risking overboost fuel cut or a lean condition. The lean condition results from the fact that the FD does not use an airflow meter and does not know that the engine has increased in volumetric efficiency. I just don't see it being a good idea for a swap. Even if you got a chipped FD ECU (Pettit etc), that's more money down the drain for an engine management dead end.
Use FD electronics and a standalone with its own harness (Haltech etc). Otherwise use a T2 engine--low 300s to the wheels are possible without dumping a bunch of time and trouble into it, you just need an Rtek, a bigger turbo, and injectors/fuel pump.
The FC CAS basic signal is the same as the FD's. That's why the FD Power FC works in the FC without any CAS modification. But the firing of the trailing ignition is controlled differently. I'm not sure what potential problem areas or fault codes you would have if you tried to use all this FC stuff on a stock FD ECU. The stock computer may still not like it. And there's still the problem of the stock FD ECU not being very tolerant of mods. If you put an aftermarket exhaust on it you are risking overboost fuel cut or a lean condition. The lean condition results from the fact that the FD does not use an airflow meter and does not know that the engine has increased in volumetric efficiency. I just don't see it being a good idea for a swap. Even if you got a chipped FD ECU (Pettit etc), that's more money down the drain for an engine management dead end.
Use FD electronics and a standalone with its own harness (Haltech etc). Otherwise use a T2 engine--low 300s to the wheels are possible without dumping a bunch of time and trouble into it, you just need an Rtek, a bigger turbo, and injectors/fuel pump.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
09-18-15 07:13 PM
windom
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
4
09-11-15 04:48 AM