2 13b engines and 2 options and not a lot of money
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From: sanger, california
2 13b engines and 2 options and not a lot of money
Long story short, my first engine died on me so I recently (couple 100miles ago) put in a used JDM engine that has between 30k to 60k mile on it. I just got done taking the whole first engine apart and the results were not so good. Both the housings need to be replaced and the front rotor needs to be replaced from what I have found so far...
My second engine that’s in the car right now is running good however it is running rough at random times but I think that can be because its running rich. Also, I have not tuned the engine yet but im saving up money for that. Oh, and it has a slipping clutch.
My goal is to reach 400hp with the seq setup and I know I am far from it right now with the right parts and the money but it is just a goal for me.
my list of things that I have done to the car in order is:
PFC with commander
Bönez Downpipe & High Flow Cat Combo
Racing Beat Stainless Steel RX-7 "Catback" exhaust
Efini turbo piping upgrade w/ coating
custom pulley kit
So, I have 2 13b engines and 2 options and not a lot of money.
Option 1 is; first get the second engine tuned, rebuild or have a professional rebuild the first engine then start building and putting together the right parts to reach my hp goal on the first engine and have a good spare engine on the side.
option 2 is; forget the first engine and get the second engine tuned first then start building from there to reach my hp goal.
what should I do?
does anyone know of a good rotary rebuild shop in the states? I live in California so the closer the better/cheaper. Of cores I want the best rebuild so if there is not a good shop close by then I am willing to work that extra hour so I can come up with the money for a good rebuild.
My second engine that’s in the car right now is running good however it is running rough at random times but I think that can be because its running rich. Also, I have not tuned the engine yet but im saving up money for that. Oh, and it has a slipping clutch.
My goal is to reach 400hp with the seq setup and I know I am far from it right now with the right parts and the money but it is just a goal for me.
my list of things that I have done to the car in order is:
PFC with commander
Bönez Downpipe & High Flow Cat Combo
Racing Beat Stainless Steel RX-7 "Catback" exhaust
Efini turbo piping upgrade w/ coating
custom pulley kit
So, I have 2 13b engines and 2 options and not a lot of money.
Option 1 is; first get the second engine tuned, rebuild or have a professional rebuild the first engine then start building and putting together the right parts to reach my hp goal on the first engine and have a good spare engine on the side.
option 2 is; forget the first engine and get the second engine tuned first then start building from there to reach my hp goal.
what should I do?
does anyone know of a good rotary rebuild shop in the states? I live in California so the closer the better/cheaper. Of cores I want the best rebuild so if there is not a good shop close by then I am willing to work that extra hour so I can come up with the money for a good rebuild.
Not to be a dick but the phrase "not a lot of money" and FD don't go well together. Wish you the best.
There are plenty of good shops in CA. I'm also a big fan of DJSeven in Tennessee who runs Rotary Rebuild Store (iirc). Good luck!
There are plenty of good shops in CA. I'm also a big fan of DJSeven in Tennessee who runs Rotary Rebuild Store (iirc). Good luck!
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From: sanger, california
someday though, someday
If you don't have a lot of money to dump in it I'd recommend more modest power goals for the time being, especially if it's just a street car.
I don't even think you can get 400 out of a stock sequential setup, since you can't really go above 14 psi, and even at 14 your turbos are gonna die fast. not to mention that the more power you push, the less room you have for error.
Since you replaced the engine with another used one you definitely need to do a compression check as already suggested, you really need to know the current health of what you're working with.
I'd also recommend getting the injectors cleaned and make sure everything else is running ok before you start slapping on mods.
I don't even think you can get 400 out of a stock sequential setup, since you can't really go above 14 psi, and even at 14 your turbos are gonna die fast. not to mention that the more power you push, the less room you have for error.
Since you replaced the engine with another used one you definitely need to do a compression check as already suggested, you really need to know the current health of what you're working with.
I'd also recommend getting the injectors cleaned and make sure everything else is running ok before you start slapping on mods.
Yeah, 400whp from stock sequential twins is not going to be easy, and it will be anything but cheap.
My suggestion if you're low on cash is to set your goals for now on reliability, not power.
350whp on sequential twins is still stupidly fast, but reasonable enough that you can manage it without pouring too much money into the build, while retaining some semblance of reliability.
If you're bound and determined to get 400whp on sequential twins you will need:
A streetported engine
BNR Stage 3 twins
Water/Meth Injection
Upgraded spark
Upgraded Solenoids
3-bar map sensor
VMIC or FMIC
Upgraded Radiator
Boost controller
Upgraded mounts (diff/engine)
etc..
etc..
etc...
My suggestion if you're low on cash is to set your goals for now on reliability, not power.
350whp on sequential twins is still stupidly fast, but reasonable enough that you can manage it without pouring too much money into the build, while retaining some semblance of reliability.
If you're bound and determined to get 400whp on sequential twins you will need:
A streetported engine
BNR Stage 3 twins
Water/Meth Injection
Upgraded spark
Upgraded Solenoids
3-bar map sensor
VMIC or FMIC
Upgraded Radiator
Boost controller
Upgraded mounts (diff/engine)
etc..
etc..
etc...
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Thread Starter
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From: sanger, california
noob question, say I need to replace my injectors but instead of replacing them with the same size injectors is it possible to replace them with lets say 1600cc secondary injectors and retain the stock primary injectors on a stock engine with the things I have added to the car so far??
Yes, you totally can. You'll need a new secondary fuel rail, and you'll need to adjust the PFC for the new injectors. I'd get it tuned though, just to be safe (I didn't mess with my fuel system without tuning at the same time, so no first hand experience of what bad may happen, or not)
Don't forget about your fuel pump though. The 12-13psi I mentioned earlier is for the stock fuel setup, including pump, not just injectors.
Don't forget about your fuel pump though. The 12-13psi I mentioned earlier is for the stock fuel setup, including pump, not just injectors.
Last edited by fendamonky; Dec 21, 2010 at 09:29 PM.
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From: sanger, california
Yes, you totally can. You'll need a new secondary fuel rail, and you'll need to adjust the PFC for the new injectors. I'd get it tuned though, just to be safe (I didn't mess with my fuel system without tuning at the same time, so no first hand experience of what bad may happen, or not)
Don't forget about your fuel pump though. The 12-13psi I mentioned earlier is for the stock fuel setup, including pump, not just injectors.
Don't forget about your fuel pump though. The 12-13psi I mentioned earlier is for the stock fuel setup, including pump, not just injectors.
Since we are talking about injectors is this Fuel System Upgrade Kit worth it for how much it is? And is the fuel pump that comes with it good? http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/per...uel_system.htm
need to start saving for future plans
Replacing the secondary rail is a bit more than it looks like on the surface.
to my knowledge there are no secondary rails that allow you to use the air pump/acv, which means you now need to block those off in several places. this could be an issue with emissions/visual inspections.
Removing the air pump then means you'll have possible water pump slippage with the reduced contact unless you add an idler pulley (some very good ones out there, I got the tweekit). Course that means you then need different size belts.
You'd also need either resistors to wire in due to the change in impedence with the new injectors, or an FJO driver, or you could go with ID injectors which require neither. Add injectors spacers for the LIM as well.
Upgraded fuel pump already mentioned, upgraded FPR like the aeromotive + fuel press gauge..
It's a snowball once you start doing things....but starting your mods with fuel system upgrades and ECU is the best place to start since it supports everything else.
Best thing to do imho is make sure everything is tip-top in stock form before you start modding though
to my knowledge there are no secondary rails that allow you to use the air pump/acv, which means you now need to block those off in several places. this could be an issue with emissions/visual inspections.
Removing the air pump then means you'll have possible water pump slippage with the reduced contact unless you add an idler pulley (some very good ones out there, I got the tweekit). Course that means you then need different size belts.
You'd also need either resistors to wire in due to the change in impedence with the new injectors, or an FJO driver, or you could go with ID injectors which require neither. Add injectors spacers for the LIM as well.
Upgraded fuel pump already mentioned, upgraded FPR like the aeromotive + fuel press gauge..
It's a snowball once you start doing things....but starting your mods with fuel system upgrades and ECU is the best place to start since it supports everything else.
Best thing to do imho is make sure everything is tip-top in stock form before you start modding though
noob question, say I need to replace my injectors but instead of replacing them with the same size injectors is it possible to replace them with lets say 1600cc secondary injectors and retain the stock primary injectors on a stock engine with the things I have added to the car so far??
There are a couple places that can bore out your 850's to 1300. Advantage to this is you can still use the stock fuel rails. Disadvantage is that some people say bored out injectors can be problematic.
RX7store sells them new, and one of the injector cleaning places can do this on used injectors (the name of the place is escaping me though). Witch Hunter does cleaning ($19 per injector) but I don't think they modify injectors.
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From: sanger, california
ok thanks for all the comments, it is really helpful.
yea I know, I already mentioned it being out of my reach in post #8. But I believe with the BNR stage 3 turbos and of cores a lot more other mods it will be possible.
first thing is to make sure the car is in good running condition, tuned then start saving up for my goal.
thanks again everyone!
first thing is to make sure the car is in good running condition, tuned then start saving up for my goal.
thanks again everyone!
ok thanks for all the comments, it is really helpful.
yea I know, I already mentioned it being out of my reach in post #8. But I believe with the BNR stage 3 turbos and of cores a lot more other mods it will be possible.
first thing is to make sure the car is in good running condition, tuned then start saving up for my goal.
thanks again everyone!
yea I know, I already mentioned it being out of my reach in post #8. But I believe with the BNR stage 3 turbos and of cores a lot more other mods it will be possible.
first thing is to make sure the car is in good running condition, tuned then start saving up for my goal.
thanks again everyone!
With BNR's it seems the limitation imo would start coming from the problems with the increased boost and the stock solenoid system. You have more risk of a vac hose popping off unless you've got good silicone vac hose zip tied on there good.
I've also noticed the stock solenoids don't like holding vac/pressure over 15 psi, at least most of the ones I've put the thumb screws to.
The BNR's are a great product no doubt, and cheaper to boot. A supporting system only designed to go to 10-12 psi I think is what makes it challenging to support high boost BNR setup.
if it were me....check the compression as mentioned earlier, then...
port your wastegate to support your power goals safely, let's say 350whp since 400 really is pushing it on stock twins.
Buy some 1300cc injectors on the forum, there a few sets for sale right now around 200 bucks, beauty is you don't need a new fuel rail, lines, fpr etc... then remove your primary's and send them to RCengineering in Torrance, CA along with your new secondary's and you will have a good setup that will last you a while for reasonably cheap.
Rewire your fuelpump.
I didn't see if you had a boost controller or not but get one and set it to 14psi, with a tune of course. I've ran my stock twins at 14psi for 10k and had no more shaft play than i did before i upped the boost.
You might need a twin power at 14psi though, another 350 bucks or so. I think thats everything.
port your wastegate to support your power goals safely, let's say 350whp since 400 really is pushing it on stock twins.
Buy some 1300cc injectors on the forum, there a few sets for sale right now around 200 bucks, beauty is you don't need a new fuel rail, lines, fpr etc... then remove your primary's and send them to RCengineering in Torrance, CA along with your new secondary's and you will have a good setup that will last you a while for reasonably cheap.
Rewire your fuelpump.
I didn't see if you had a boost controller or not but get one and set it to 14psi, with a tune of course. I've ran my stock twins at 14psi for 10k and had no more shaft play than i did before i upped the boost.
You might need a twin power at 14psi though, another 350 bucks or so. I think thats everything.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: sanger, california
Rich (GoodfellaFD3S) has a lot of detailed posts regarding the BNR's, I guess he used those before going single. Was a while ago I guess but still good info.
With BNR's it seems the limitation imo would start coming from the problems with the increased boost and the stock solenoid system. You have more risk of a vac hose popping off unless you've got good silicone vac hose zip tied on there good.
I've also noticed the stock solenoids don't like holding vac/pressure over 15 psi, at least most of the ones I've put the thumb screws to.
The BNR's are a great product no doubt, and cheaper to boot. A supporting system only designed to go to 10-12 psi I think is what makes it challenging to support high boost BNR setup.
With BNR's it seems the limitation imo would start coming from the problems with the increased boost and the stock solenoid system. You have more risk of a vac hose popping off unless you've got good silicone vac hose zip tied on there good.
I've also noticed the stock solenoids don't like holding vac/pressure over 15 psi, at least most of the ones I've put the thumb screws to.
The BNR's are a great product no doubt, and cheaper to boot. A supporting system only designed to go to 10-12 psi I think is what makes it challenging to support high boost BNR setup.
if it were me....check the compression as mentioned earlier, then...
port your wastegate to support your power goals safely, let's say 350whp since 400 really is pushing it on stock twins.
Buy some 1300cc injectors on the forum, there a few sets for sale right now around 200 bucks, beauty is you don't need a new fuel rail, lines, fpr etc... then remove your primary's and send them to RCengineering in Torrance, CA along with your new secondary's and you will have a good setup that will last you a while for reasonably cheap.
Rewire your fuelpump.
I didn't see if you had a boost controller or not but get one and set it to 14psi, with a tune of course. I've ran my stock twins at 14psi for 10k and had no more shaft play than i did before i upped the boost.
You might need a twin power at 14psi though, another 350 bucks or so. I think thats everything.
port your wastegate to support your power goals safely, let's say 350whp since 400 really is pushing it on stock twins.
Buy some 1300cc injectors on the forum, there a few sets for sale right now around 200 bucks, beauty is you don't need a new fuel rail, lines, fpr etc... then remove your primary's and send them to RCengineering in Torrance, CA along with your new secondary's and you will have a good setup that will last you a while for reasonably cheap.
Rewire your fuelpump.
I didn't see if you had a boost controller or not but get one and set it to 14psi, with a tune of course. I've ran my stock twins at 14psi for 10k and had no more shaft play than i did before i upped the boost.
You might need a twin power at 14psi though, another 350 bucks or so. I think thats everything.
the bnrs will support more than 15psi so i would reccomend getting new solenoids, or look for some from reputable members that have oodles of parts(i.e. fritz flynn) for some good used ones.
I have the greddy profec spec b, a lot of people hate it but i think its because most never took the time to read the detailed instructions. I have no problems with it, priced reasonably for an electronic boost controller. Or you can get a manual one and save some coin.
I have the greddy profec spec b, a lot of people hate it but i think its because most never took the time to read the detailed instructions. I have no problems with it, priced reasonably for an electronic boost controller. Or you can get a manual one and save some coin.
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From: sanger, california
sorry for the late responce
so i tested my compression by using a piston engine compression tester on the engine thats already in the car and the results were not that great...
results:
front was hitting 50+psi with valve open on all three face and 90+psi with valve closed.
rear was hitting 50+psi with Valve open on all three face and 100+psi with valve closed.
What should i do? also the car seems to be running rich according to my air/fuel gauge and rough, but again that might be because it hasn’t been tuned yet...
results:
front was hitting 50+psi with valve open on all three face and 90+psi with valve closed.
rear was hitting 50+psi with Valve open on all three face and 100+psi with valve closed.
What should i do? also the car seems to be running rich according to my air/fuel gauge and rough, but again that might be because it hasn’t been tuned yet...
