I just happened to have a set of CAS on my desk. If you look at the brace you can see a lip. I wonder if you flip the brace over, that lip would make the sensors sit back 1~2 mm.

Not recommending that, but it could be one idea to gain the missing gap.

 

Thanks @billyboy, there's a couple things that you've mentioned there, I've tried to address each below:

• I got it off by removing things above it essentially, had to take the oil filler neck off and then there was a black box with a vacuum line running to it, pretty straightforward once removed.
• I've tried to manhandle the pulley and I could not detect any play whatsoever side to side, or up and down. Nothing obvious but I'll try again tomorrow with a helper pressing down the clutch.
• When I rotate the pulley manually, I do not detect any wobble, I've consistently measured about a 3mm gap between the little protrusion on the block (see photo below) and the trigger wheel, it's dead-on throughout the entire rotation.
  
• Regarding the idler pulley, good callout, I'll make sure to do some research on that before I remount it. I've actually taken the bearing out, give it a lick of paint and a new bearing as it wasn't rotating super smooth anymore.

Thanks @Redbul. Not sure about my pulley configuration to be honest, 'it looks alright' and definitely looks OEM and when comparing it to photos online or parts diagrams, it looks to be mounted as it should.

I don't have any adjustability in the sensors, the offset of the sensor from the block is dictated by the thickness of the sensor mounting tab, not the bracket unfortunately. I am hopeful that the new sensors are slightly shorter, maybe the current housing of my current set has expanded a bit due to heat or something (but I have my doubts).

I don't see any way to adjust the pulley assembly or the sensors whatsoever. How is this supposed to work or be adjusted (if at all)? Anyway, I've temporarily mounted up one of the sensor again and took some more photos of the pulleys and how close that is. Is there anything incorrect about how the pulleys are mounted perhaps?

 

The play I mentioned that would affect the timing wheel rubbing on the pickup was front-to-rear. I did not think you'd find any lateral slop, nor would that affect the rubbing issue. So trying again with the clutch disengaged "may" detect something.

 

II may be sending you on a goose chase, but the back pulley seems to have a dome shape. I wonder if the pulley's position had somehow been swapped, or if you have two front pulleys instead of one of each.

 

The dome of the front pulley sits a lot deeper into the back pulley , so that is not it But my back pulley seems to have a bit less of a dome shape.

it is hard to see. I can't quite get my camera to the right angle.

 

I recently shipped all my spare pulleys to the engine rebuilders. Luckily I took this pic.

 

Does your pully have 6 ribs, v.s. 5 for mine? Perhaps not?

 

Go in and wedge a piece of wood between the clutch pedal and the seat frame slider. Turn to motor over by hand with a 19mm socket a few rotations. Stick your cas sensors back in and see if you have a gap. Can also measure from the trigger wheel back to the pointer again. Report back your findings.






~ GW

 

OK, if the crank angle sensors are hitting the trigger wheel, that's Bad. Need to figure out what's going on there first.

As stated, spec should be 1-2mm gap between the CAS metal "can" and the wheel.

The picture you posted it looks like it's hard up against the wheel. That can only happen when -

- The wheel is very much bent
- The eccentric shaft is slopping back and forth
- The end play is set really wrong and closing that gap up

Dale

 

See if this posts....

Farkin internet! Up the creek, I think engine out for you!

Interestingly, Redbul's idler is "wrong" too.

 

Eh?

 

Time to check the depth of protrusion of the eshaft into the pulley boss. (page c-77 of USDM FSM). "if it is over the limit the needle bearing may be caught by the spacer".

(or, it seems the trigger wheel may be too close to the abs sensor).

 

This was posted on here by someone a couple of years ago - funnily enough a S7/V4 car too


could be dealership apprentices too 22:38 mark.

 

First of all, thanks for all your insights, fantastic help! I'll try and group & address all the thoughts/suggestions below.

Thanks for the suggestions @DaveW, @DaleClark , @gdub29e, @billyboy, and @Redbul . I think what I'm getting from all of these suggestions is two things:

1. There could be something 'bigger' going on where this is not an issue with the pulley or sensor placement. But rather there could be an underlying problem with the eshaft.
2. I need to check for lateral movement, to seem if there is any play or slop.

So I've found a piece of wood I could wedge between a bracket on the steering column and the clutch temporarily, and tested a few things:

• When rotating the the pulley manually, I cannot detect any lateral movement or slop, wobble. For what it's worth, I also cannot find anything that would indicate the pulleys/trigger wheel are bent, spacing against the block is consistent throughout the rotation. Here's a short recording https://streamable.com/k8ae55, where I manually turning the engine over. If you hear a 'clunk', that's just me hitting my ratchet on the battery tray.
• I have wedged a big screwdriver between the lip of the pulley and the water pump housing to create some leverage (might not be the best idea I've ever had but couldn't find a different point to get leverage) to see if there movement. Again, there is no lateral (or back to front movement). Here's a short recording again: https://streamable.com/bh7tss.
• I have not yet taken the pulley off, but I can see that it has been off at some point because the markings of where bolts where previously mounted.
  

So, I think next step is going to be to take off the pulley, is there anything I should be looking for specifically? For example the:

• The 'end play' being set really wrong, as per @DaleClark 's suggestion. How is that set?
• Or the spacing between the eccentric shaft / pulley boss mentioned by @Redbul.

Thanks again everyone!


The pulley closest to the block is 5, the other one is 6.
Yikes, don't like the sound of that. Anything in particular that makes you think it's an engine out kind of situation? Want to give me a hand?😋

 

As per the diagram in my last post above measure the depth of the protrusion of the end of the eshaft into the pulley boss. If the pulley bos is forced on even a millimeter more that it should be, you have found your problem.

Also I have not seen that locking plate you see in the pic, immediately above, among my FD parts. I suspect it is possibly from a different version car.

I will look in the part catalogue.

 

https://www.atkinsrotary.com/93-95-R...1-11-400A.html

Atkins seems to sell the whole unit, including the "pully boss".

 

I don't see that locking plate.

 

Looking plate shows up in the version4 parts catalogue.

 

That would make sense, it's a V4 engine, so that checks out. I'll see if I can take the pulley off tonight and see what I can learn from that.

 

This is the diagram for Version 1 catalogue

 

Watch out for issues related to removing that nut.

Also remember the manual warns that if the boss is pressed in too far the needle bearing might be damaged.

Having said said, look at the diagram, there seems ot be some configuration change.

We have to look in the JDM FSM supplement for version 4 cars.

 

The locking plate was introduced for Version 2 cars.

I could not find any explanation for the change in the diagrams introducing the locking plate.

 

This was from the USDM 1994 FSM. So I don't know if things have changed by the time we get to Version 4 JDM.

 

This is from the initial JDM FSM.

 

When you remove that bolt in the second frame, all that stuff might come springing out. Make sure you know how to but it all back.