You may recognize this as the lower portion of your keyed ignition. It is attached by a single machine screw. If he screw falls out the part will separate from the tongue that turns when you turn your key. And you will get no ignition response.

 

Not that it's a good idea to throw parts at a problem in the hope of winning the lottery, I do see another of those somewhat rare ECUs on yahoo atm.....although if you think it may be rooted, and you don't have to deal with compliance anymore, an aftermarket one might be a good investment. Would be more convenient, funnily enough there is a guy over Kingsgrove who imported 3 or 4 of those V4 cars 25 years ago, who probably would have the ECUs just sitting on a shelf up in his mezzanine, but hard to interact with him directly as he doesn't care about the hassle of dealing with the trifling sum of money he'd likely receive.

Was this your own import or local importer, if the latter, not uncommon for them to do half-arsed hack jobs. Would have expected the Japanese to use the typical patch harness for the install, no chance the pin locks are munted and not fully seating in the connectors and backing out a little?

On ausrotary and fdrx7, sim-rx3 used to pretty handy around some of these half and half import FDs and he used to travel to fix them. Worse case if you fail to find the problem, long odds, maybe he may respond to a PM, doubt he's been active for 10+ years. Another guy worth contacting if all else fails may be Rollie who is pretty switched-on and seemed to be into the headfuck of Rx8 wiring, I believe he goes by Roland Rotary Garage - probably have to take the car to him in that case.

 

Thanks @Redbul! I stand corrected on my previous assessment, where I stated that it had a v4/s7 map sensor, it does not! I actually think it's still the S6.
I've found this image online of what I think are the later s7 model on the left, and the older s6 model on the right. The sensor I have is the one on right.


Given that the ECU does not throw any errors, and where I can, the voltage measurements appear to be in spec at the ECU pin, is there another way to validate whether the sensor is functional with this ECU? And also, just to check, would a faulty or incorrect map sensor actually prevent ignition from happening?

Can confirm that the filter is in the correct orientation (I think), arrow pointing towards the intake manifold.

Yep, I've seen that thing, haven't noticed it being either in or out of place but I also don't really know what I'm looking for so I'll double check 😅. When you say, no ignition response, I would assume you mean there is no cranking whatsoever right?

Thanks @billyboy - I've put some feelers out locally in the Sydney area for an S7 ECU but no luck just yet. I have already invested in a Haltech Nexus S2 ecu because I want to really just make this \whole s6 vs. s7 mess a thing of the past. Annoyingly though, I do still need to go through VSCSS compliance still. The car was imported just over a year ago by a local importer, and in that time: Went through the (initial) compliance to get the RAV approval, sat for a while, started not functioning and then possibly became the worst car decision I've ever made 😅. I need VSCSS compliance to get it on plates in NSW and I've been advised to keep it as stock as possible, hence my push to troubleshoot a bit further rather than just slapping the Haltech. I also don't want to damage the Haltech, if there is some weird scenario in which there is poor ground, power, or a short that fries the Haltech, but I might be overly cautious here.

Thanks for the direction on some Ausrotary people that (can't hurt I guess). I have the same exact thread on Ausrotary but it's unfortunately been a bit quiet there.

 

Also just adding to this with a quick video of the very, very weak spark at the moment the relays 'click' and cranking starts. It's a video taken in the dark pointed at an in-line spark tester.

 

Better eyes than me, can't see even the faintest flicker!

Like most forums, Ausrotary has been pretty quiet for a long time.

I doubt the F1 v A1 MAP would be any different, Akagis in the stickies above might be able to provide values from the manuals for the late sensor if you ask nicely, just need a mityvac or similar to test then.

Hmmm, poor bugger, that fuels suspicions on the quality of the job!

Yep, that's a good idea, stock pipe and cat will probably go a long way to facilitating a pass too. As you need to go over the pits so to speak, Yavuz out at Unigroup does a lot of that compliance stuff with EPA, they know their way around a rotary unlike a lot of the other certifiers and you might kill 2 birds with the one stone rather than pulling out hair.

 

@billyboy - It is for sure very faint. I've got the values from the respective manuals and it looks alright from what I can tell. But does the MAP sensor actually intercept the ignition system? From my understanding it would basically let the car run very poorly, but it should run nonetheless.

In regards to the quality of the job, I too have mixed feelings about this, Therefore long term, I want to change it. But I must say, that after having spent multiple weekends translating and researching bot JDM S6 and S7 wiring manuals as it relates to the ECU, I think there's method to the madness. Any of the splicing of wires that was done, was all done using crimps, instead of poor soldering and so on.
I do however not think this was the importers job, rather, it was done in Japan. I've got photos and descriptions, and history of the car in Japan, and even photos from the importer, all indicating that this engine, and configuration were in the car when it left Japan. I have of course no 100% confirmation of what the state of wiring and whatnot was like.

And thanks for the Unigroup reference, hadn't actually heard of them, I'll keep them in mind! The car is actually fairly stock, other than an HKS air intake and a different muffler, it has the stock twins, downpipe, and cat.

 

@Reitangle MAP won't affect the start, it won't run great though. You've really only got to worry about it, if the line comes off in boost, then you can run into a dead engine.

Sounds more hopeful than a quick and nasty job here to get it out the door, although have seen scotch locks and line twists used over there too. Exposed HKS filters will probably cause you grief at inspection I'd suspect.

You'd think if it ran before, the front and engine harness (as distinct from the emissions harness) - and assorted relays and fuses - would be the only things you'd need to check and nothing more complicated involved. As mentioned by Redbul, if the front harness gets hit by the tyre, you might be in a world of pain, but quite the mystery if it's been sitting for most of a year....short of rodents.

 

My understanding is you can't intertchange those MAP sensors.

Best borrow the proper one from a friend.

You can often find used MAP sensors on Buyee for about $100, so don't freak out when you see new for $600.

I pack an emergency kit around with me including spare MAP sensors. TPS, ISC, Coils, CAS, plugs, code reader kit, etc.

So when we are struggling to find the source of an issue, we can swap them in one at a time.

All those things are very expensive when you need them in a hurry, but you can but together such a kit by making timely purchases on Buyee.

There are 31 FD within 5 miles of my house, so someone is always needing some troubleshooting.

 

Well, I went to retrace my steps, and am feeling quite silly right now. At least, I really wish I'd taken more apart and checked this sooner. Whilst the Crank Angle Sensor is probably not fried, it turns out that it's mounting bracket has cracked, and it's actually being able to 'wiggle' around. After giving everything a good and proper clean, taking off all of the intercooler piping for better visibility, I can actually see that the CAS has wear marks on it, indicating it has made contact with the pulley ring. The little prong can actually hit outer most sensor now that I've wiggled it some more.

So yeah, I think you were on the money when you mentioned checking the clearance!

Now trying to get it out, and order some new ones! I hope that fixes is, but am hopeful again.

 

Grab it, before I do!

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/...n_DirectSearch

 

I go through all (ALL) your grounding points one more time.

 

you might want to wait for a used pair to show up. They are usually pretty robust.

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/...n_DirectSearch

 

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/...n_DirectSearch

 

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/...n_DirectSearch

 

https://www.rx7club.com/market/1168138

 

I just found and ordered two new old stock, they should be with me somewhere this week! Thanks for the links though.

The original bracket I've got is probably the only thing still good haha, but thanks for that link as well! I do have a 3D printer as well

Here was the condition of mine , how does that happen, there doesn't seem to be any adjustability, nor does the crank pully seem to wobble or otherwise be bent. I am surprised how such contact happens, other than improper tightening (but it was on there tight), or extreme heat expansion or something.

 

I think it was rubbing for a long time, and repeated impacts/vibration from that eventually broke it off. It may have been bent into contact previously, or somehow the clearance was non-existent. How's the end-play on the crank/timing-wheel?

 

delete - double post

 

Measure the distance from the trigger face to the first pulley?

 

If it's not something obvious like chopper wheel impact damage, the only time we've had that, is torrington stack collapse......as a result of the set screw falling out of the oil pump body and starving the rotating assembly of oil. It may also be historical damage and nothing to be concerned with, but looks exceptionally close in the assembled pic! Those inductive sensors will still function even with the stainless steel covers completely worn through and you could have just glued the mounting tab, as once the sheet metal cover is fastened, it's hard for them to go anywhere.

You haven't released the eccentric shaft bolt by any chance?

 

There was some service bulletin at sometime, I think it was posted on the Pettite site, warning about being careful when working around the front end of the e-shaft. That some bearing, or other, could drop out of position.

Is there a chance here that it is the wrong size trigger wheel? Did earlier RX7 have trigger wheels and could they have been of slightly bigger size?

Are the front two pulleys, mounted back to front, so the trigger wheel sticks out?

 

 

Make sense, I imagine that the plastics could also become a bit more brittle over many heat cycles. I couldn't really observe any play when I was getting access to it but I'll be sure to check this after work.

I am assuming you don't mean the tolerance between the sensor and the trigger wheel (there basically is none), right? Do you mean this distance?

I have not touched this, unless it's been touched prior (which is within the realm of possibilities). But I've tried to essentially leave the pulleys and the trigger wheel in place and have taken the sensors out from the top. I could see that when rotating the pulley, the trigger wheel actually impacted the sensor that had broken off, as it would angle itself in the path of the trigger wheel. Haven't spotted anything else out of the ordinary though, do you have any recommendations as to how best to confirm, or proceed with validating everything else is correct? Like that torrington stack?

And you're probably right with the fact that the sensors are still functional, they both have resistance within the factory spec too. But since it was a bit of a pain to get to and I don't want to risk a glued tab breaking again, I just ordered some replacements. Got a good deal on them for only about $60 USD for two brand new (old stock).

Hmm, interesting one! I had a check this, but according to parts diagrams the different year engines use the same exact crank pulley assembly (part N3C111400).

I don't think it's back to front either, at least nothings leaves me to believe that it is, comparing against online resources at least.

 

Pulleys can come off, surprised you could get the sensors out without doing so actually, There's the locking device that mechanically prevents the eccentric shaft bolt loosening, secured by 2 x 10mm hex bolts plus a further 2 holding the pulley to the hub. You could lever with a prybar/big screw driver/what have you, against a block of wood behind the hub to see what sort of play you've got. If you have assistance, somebody depressing the clutch with the belts off probably, should indicate if there's something dire happened with the stack, or there's been a very weird spacer selection at some stage......if you don't want to remove the pulley.

Not quite related, I do note your p/s idler pulley has the lip at the front. I believe the V2 cars had that set-up shown in the parts manual at least, dunno if it was a misprint or whatever and do know of cars in the wild that have it that way, but all the later cars show the lip at the back.

 

The double pulleys I have seen, usually are actually two pieces that snug together. I have seen single piece double pulleys as well, and, aftermarket ones as well. The diagram shows the gap between the trigger wheel and sensors should be 1mm~2mm.

On my car it is actually 3~4 mm and the trigger wheel is wobbly!